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Hanging stringers

23K views 35 replies 17 participants last post by  festerized  
#1 ·
I have always viewed the stringer / deck connection as a weak link when building taller deck stairs. Im interested in finding out how other contractors hang their stringers.
I use a piece of 3/4 pt ply. It gets fastened to the back of the double flush beam with 3 1/4 nails and 4 headlocks. The stringer gets fastened to the ply with 4, 3 /2 nails per stringer, through the back.
 
#8 ·
There is a few ways of doing it. one is you cut your stringer adding an extra tread, make a notch and go under it fastening to the joist. Using 2x12 stringer you maintaining more than 5" min requirement between the tread and the bottom of the stringer.

Another way is to add blocking to the joist or extend a 4x4 post and add 2x to provide solid back support for the stringer.

Here is something to give you an idea.
 

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#23 ·
Can not use plywood here in MN for stairs hanging already for 10 years. I use it still always if inspector will not show up (very rare case). After a dose building of "extended 4X4" (how other member call it) I get used to it. TBH would not like that stairs in my house hang at nails&3/4 plywood.
 
#21 ·
I was doing a roof deck rebuild earlier this week and the stairs going up were 6ft wide and I think 16 treads high. When I looked underneath to see how it was built I was amazed.

First thing I see is 3x12 treated stringers, I have never seen these before. Strong and beefy but they were barely attached to a 2x6 platform above so for all the extra effort in the step that connection was a liability to me.
 
#22 · (Edited)
The most crucial stair attachment point is the bottom of the stringer because it deals with a few forces.So if there is a solid landing or a footing which will prevent the stair from forward or downward movement, you will have a solid staircase.
The use of stair hanger at the top stringer only acts against the uplift force, so a simple hurricane strap on the inside or a typical reinforcing angle bracket (which I prefer to use) is much better.
Here is an image I made to show how these forces act on the staircase.
 

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#33 ·
I've been meaning to snap some pictures of our stair framing. I've settled on one of two methods, depending on the landing placement. We either use a 2x12 rim if it's inset, or hang another joist below the rim if it's a continuous rim. Either way, we drop the 4x4 railing posts to the bottom of the section where the stringers land. If it's getting a joist added below the rim then we install 2x4's behind the rims and hit them with Flatloks.

I use the Simpson LSC hangers on the rim. If the stair run is perpendicular to the joists then I block back two joist bays at the stair location.