Benchtop Jointers for Site Work?

Spencer · Jun 7, 2015

Anyone ever use a benchtop jointer for site work?

Another trim guy I'm working with is always running his porter cable on site.

It would be really handy to be able to straighten say a 5 foot board on certain projects.

Any thoughts?

Robie · Jun 7, 2015

I personally think a router and straight edge is easier.

Robinson1 · Jun 7, 2015

I've been considering getting one myself. My only problem is most of the bench top jointers look like junk/are geared more towards hobby woodworkers with small basement shops.

duburban · Jun 7, 2015

seriously?!

Spencer, I though you were already on the Festool wagon. A track saw is exactly a job site jointer capable of straightening a board as long as your track(s).

Its become part of my process to straight line my material before fitting further.

Spencer · Jun 7, 2015

You're probably right on this. I was thinking that a joiner would streamline the process and make it go faster. I have quite a bit of work coming up that will involve rail and stile paneling, being able to get a finished edge + straight boards would be a huge help.

A portable joiner is only going to be good for material up to 5 ft max, then the tracksaw takes the cake...hmmm....I was thinking the tracksaw wouldn't be fast enough for me but I may be able to make it work...downside is blade marks.

Edit... On second thought I could get them straight with the tracksaw, rip them, and then run them through the dewalt planer vertically to get the nice edge.

Morning Wood · Jun 7, 2015

How do you guys straight line rip something that is 3-4" wide with the track saw?

duburban · Jun 7, 2015

get something the same thickness to keep the track flat. most often it doesn't require clamping any of the parts because of the track's anti slip strips.

duburban · Jun 7, 2015

I think the job site jointer argument doesn't come in straightening but in providing a finish quality surface without sanding. The track saw leaves a nice edge but still needs touch up. If you could get that off a jointer you'd be ahead of the game (i think).

BlueRidgeGreen · Jun 7, 2015

Or....

you can get the Festool 850 Planer and the jointer base.

Used it once on a job, it was slick.
For as often as I would like to have one on site, I think it would be perfect.

Short bed, but how long are the other portables?

I've been holding off, but I want one.

Spencer · Jun 7, 2015

That might work for getting a finished edge on a board but I don't think it would work for getting anything straight that was over a couple feet long. Table just isn't long enough.

Looks like most benchtop models are about 28 inches long. I like that the grizzly has a cast iron table. I'd probably go for that one if any.

builditguy · Jun 7, 2015

For straightening a board, I would use a track saw, if it needed very much at all. For cleaning up a rough edge we use the benchtop jointer.

We commonly use a benchtop jointer when we are doing alot of wood. Normal trim out, it's not really necessary.

I would say the jointer come out on about 2 jobs a year.

Spencer · Jun 7, 2015

Which jointer do you have? Any suggestions?

I'd probably look into the grizzly because of the cast table.

It would be the same deal. I wouldn't haul it around all the time. Just bust it out on certain jobs.

Nick R · Jun 7, 2015

I was all about using the tracksaw until last week. I was trying to straighten 1x4 to make a glue up, and realized I must have been pushing down on the track slightly or something, all the cuts came out beveled. I really dislike using the tracksaw on narrow boards. They are always moving around on me.

From now on, For something that I can plan ahead of time, I'm going to be using the shop jointer. In a pinch, I'll use the track saw and complain

JFM constr · Jun 7, 2015

narrow boards are not easy with a jointer either .
i would think those smaller portable jointer would a challenge on anything over 4' . i saw i real nice 6" on craiglist for 100$ -a "Davis and Wells" .two people could set it in place .still your limited in length you can do easily .

The Coastal Craftsman · Jun 7, 2015

You should t be getting any saw marks on the track saw spence if you are using the right blade. Mine are like glass after using the track saw. Got rid of my jointer awhile back as really didn't use it enough. If you want it extra smooth then get the 850 and after you gone over with the TS hit it with the 850 to get desired finish.

Texas Wax · Jun 7, 2015

m2akita said:
If you cant get a smooth enough finish with the track saw, what about using a router instead of a saw as Robie said? I know Eurekazone has a router attachment for their tracks, not sure about Festool, Makita, Dewalt, etc.

Nothing wrong with a track saw and the green in general. Work great on additions, baths ect. The trim job Spencer appears to be on is not a small to medium size job. The added gyrations of Clamping and holding and the limitations of small pcs with track saws, power planes ... are a pain in the arse compared to: hit a switch, run the board/molding thru, maybe one more time and done. Especially coupled with a good table saw. Reality, imho, it's about efficiency on large higher end trim jobs for builders. Not the most elegant solution.

Tote'n around an 80#-200#lbs jionter for smaller jobs is not efficient, both in cost and energy to move it around. But if you're gonna live at a job, like spencer's above, for a 3-4weeks doing finish carpentry - sure is sweet to have a jionter set up.

m2akita · Jun 7, 2015

If you cant get a smooth enough finish with the track saw, what about using a router instead of a saw as Robie said? I know Eurekazone has a router attachment for their tracks, not sure about Festool, Makita, Dewalt, etc.

m2akita · Jun 7, 2015

If going with a bench top jointer what about making some in-feed and out-feed tables? Guess you would have to adjust the in-feed table every time you adjusted the cut. Could mount the jointer on one of these portable stands with wheels so one guy could move it around themselves.

What about a router table with a straight bit? Just offset the in-feed and out-feed fences a little.

Just free thinking here. I have no real experience with a jointer.

Spencer · Jun 7, 2015

It would be more of a pain that it would be worth to try and rig up some kind of longer table.

I have an incra router table and fence but the issue would be the same, not a long enough fence to do any meaningful straightening on longer boards.

WarnerConstInc. · Jun 7, 2015

Long straight edged boards are not made on a jointer (i have had numerous jointers one was over 9 feet in length) and the reality is that any board over 12' is too hard to manage and your effort will be futile. 8 foot long tables are about perfect and the only part that matters is the table right after the cutter head.

Order your stock correctly, have the mill straight line it. A good table saw to rip to width with the right blade will leave very little to clean up. Quick block sand or a quick pass wth a plane will take care of it. On site my 10 foot rail and ts55 works better then any job site saw you try to feed it through.

You can let things hang past and flush trim with a router or with an offset bearing trim bit.

I once thought there was a need for a jointer on site, but soon realized it was not really needed.

Spencer · Jun 7, 2015

It seems like at least half the boards end up getting a nasty bow when you rip them and release the grain tension.

In the millroom when I would make my stiles and rails so that if I needed 2" I would rip the boards at 2-1/4 so the tension would release and the board could do its thing. Run through the jointer to get them straight. Run them through the table saw at a strong 2". Then run a bunch of them together vertically through the planer to remove any saw blade marks. I'd end up with a bunch of perfectly straight, perfectly parallel stock with no saw marks. It really didn't take very long either.

The fact that boards don't stay straight when ripped is the main issue I'm looking at.

I do appreciate the advice. I don't want to waste money on a jointer if I can make a track saw and table saw do the job.

CrpntrFrk · Jun 7, 2015

I skimmed through the thread so this may have been mentioned but I feel a planer can be a great stand in for a jointer. That DeWalt is on my list for me to replace my bosses Delta that I use.

WarnerConstInc. · Jun 7, 2015

Get better stock. The only time I have issues with lumber doing that is when I don't get it from my two usual suppliers or I know it is a junk board before I start.

Buy extra stock. I bring straight material to the jobsite, if I cant the rail saw and a router will make do, much better then some rinky dink bench top jointer.

If you have no contol of the materials, its on them to either get better stuff or realize the money saved will be lost on someone dicking around with crappy lumber.

Spencer · Jun 8, 2015

Starting off with straight stock helps when you're talking about ripping a 1x4 down to 3", but in my experience there is nothing you can do to prevent some boards from going ape chit when you rip them down the middle such as you would for rails and stiles.

I thought all the lumber in these parts comes through Frank Miller anyways. Same source, different suppliers. The project I've been working on has been supplied by home lumber with trim coming through koetter. I'm working over on the north side of wawasee.

The Coastal Craftsman · Jun 7, 2015

I have all the festool blades they do for the TS saws. My general rule of thumb is more teeth for ripping = smoother cut. depending on how thick that oak is the ts55 with high tooth count blade may struggle and burn the material up some.

Another option would be the CMS-GE setup as a jointer. Have not tried this my self yet but every video I seen them using it as one it looks great and it's not another tool I need to cart along as I already have it on the trailer ready to go.

tjbnwi · Jun 8, 2015

I rip 8/4 QSWO with the TS-55 and a sharp 48 tooth blade.

I've used a jobsite jointer long ago. The results I get with the TS 55 is far better than what I got with the jointer.

I have a process for doing rails and stiles. Can cut them faster and more accurately with the TS tan I can with a table saw.

8/4 QSWO and a few mahogany strips. All ripped with the TS-55.

Tom

WarnerConstInc. · Jun 8, 2015

My lumber comes out of michigan.

Good lumber will rarely have tension issues after being ripped.

Nothing wastes more time then having to straighten lumber you already paid to have one edge ripped.

There are a few woods that can be problematic, but properly dried and handled domestics should not be. 1 in 10 boards may end up with a slight crown after ripping especially if it was a wide grained flat sawn board.

I rarely have to take a rip to the jointer to straighten it out before I cut it up again.

Texas Wax · Jun 8, 2015

Helps if they are straight after you're done

tjbnwi · Jun 8, 2015

They are straight, I don't take great pictures. I also don't doctor them or edit my videos. I put the one in the middle so you can see how the edge was at the far end. That edge is straight lined until the cut got to the end where there was nothing to cut.

Your line is not on the end points appears farther off at the far end when I expand it.

Tom

tjbnwi · Jun 8, 2015

Ansel Adams I'm not, damn near the polar opposite.

Tom

hdavis · Jun 8, 2015

I'm with both Spencer and Warner on this one. Good lumber shouldn't be case hardened or have other stress issues from drying. In reality, I get a lot of lumber that has stress problems.

I'm not using Festool, just a guide and circ saw. I've used both a bench plane and a power hand plane. First I cut the material to get it straight, then I'm planing the edge for final clean up.

The bench plane requires a lot of room for infeed and outfeed, and long stuff is impossible to get jointed. With the power planer, all I need is a 16' clear area (or whatever for maximum length). No awkward handling to feed the material.

If you can do it in one pass with just a track saw, go for it.

Spencer · Jun 8, 2015

I was under the impression that grain tension does not come from drying but rather the way the tree grows. I always understood it to come from areas of the tree that have stress due to supporting branches and what not, thats why we get figure in certain areas, its the way the tree grows to make itself stronger.

Correct me if I'm wrong on this, I didn't know it had much of anything to do with drying.

Once I was using my log splitter, splitting in the horizontal position. I dropped the lever down to split a piece of round limb that could not have been more than 6 inches in diameter. The machine started to bog down and all of the sudden....bamm......the thing exploded into two pieces hitting me in the family jewels with so much power it dropped me to the ground. It was nuts (no pun intended)...some crazy kind of grain tension in that piece.

tccoggs · Jun 8, 2015

For the bigger custom jobs we used to bring an Inca 570 combo jointer planer machine onsite. It really was the perfect onsite machine because it was mostly aluminum and only weighed 120lbs, had decent table lengths, and was precise like a swiss watch. Needed 20a 220 so it was only on the larger jobs, but the machine was a joy to use. Haven't seen an Inca machine in probably 15 years now. Doubt they are still made.

WarnerConstInc. · Jun 8, 2015

I pay good money for good lumber. Rarely does a piece ripped down the middle require a trip to the jointer to straighten it back out.

There is no one at a cabinet manufacturer taking rips out of a roll feed or SLR back to the jointer. Good lumber equals good consistent results.

Proper handling and drying does make a difference.

Morning Wood · Jun 9, 2015

Good wood is nice.

Spencer · Jun 9, 2015

I've never been around good wood apparently. Must be nice.

Benchtop Jointers for Site Work?

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