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Wrapping brick moulding/jamb in one piece

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#22 ·
Xtrememtnbiker said:
An awl that's bigger than the nail so the aluminum is loose?

Are they painted SS?
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I never use painted ones, hit them a few times and the paint is gone , and a lot of them have the waffle looking head. And if you use a lot of different colors, to many different nails to have , IMO touchup paint works the best.
 
#23 ·
I've always cladded my jamb and brickmold wrapping on by back caulking the aluminum with Novaflex. No nails ever. I hem the inside return of the brick molding to help with rigidity. Having a modern well tuned brake is paramount. I also perform this in two separate pieces. I've found that 5/16" for the return to the inside by the weatherstripping kerf works for me without obscuring the kerf. Standard new construction jambs will have about a 2 7/16" jamb face give or take some frog hairs. I go about 1/2" to the face return unless I can go heavy and slide behind the brick molding.

The brick mold profile is done either free hand or with Van Mark's trim former that runs 2" heavy on the face to account for the hem thickness on the inside return which is typically 1" heavy. The outer return I try to get as deep as possible depending on the installation. Never seen any oil canning or problems with blind caulking or cladding the metal on.
 
#24 ·
I always go 3/8" behind the weatherstrip then jamb size then an inch which I open the brick molding a little and tuck into after which I close and do the next piece. Like already mentioned not only is it easier but its going to get dented at some point.
 
#25 ·
Xtrememtnbiker said:
An awl that's bigger than the nail so the aluminum is loose?

Are they painted SS?
Click to expand...
When you get some SS nails you'll see how much smaller in diameter they are than aluminum nails.

I use Stormgaurd painted SS nails.

As other said, a trim nail punch is a must. I load the punch with the nail, been a long time since I held a trim nail in my fingers to drive it.

Tom
 
#32 ·
You can two piece it and use VHB and silicone to hold the metal to the jamb...no nails.

I do it both ways. It just depends on my mood. Definitely do a partial bend on the 1/2" leg first.
 
#33 ·
WarnerConstInc. said:
I didn't realize people were still wrapping exterior door trim.

Never seen it stay looking good very long anyway, dents, black streaks etc.
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You must live in a part of the world where the jambs aren't made of finger jointed poplar. That is a product that will hold paint outside for 3 years when it is brand new and a year tops after it's weathered.
 
#34 ·
Delaware Mike said:
Standard new construction jambs will have about a 2 7/16" jamb face give or take some frog hairs.
Click to expand...
It's also a stabila level with the flat part of a sharp carpenter pencil guided down the side. So I guess that's a stabila plus half the width of a carpenters pencil. The point is no measuring needed and it turns out perfect every time. Hopefully this makes since. If not I will try to get a few pictures.
 
#36 · (Edited)
FrankSmith said:
You must live in a part of the world where the jambs aren't made of finger jointed poplar. That is a product that will hold paint outside for 3 years when it is brand new and a year tops after it's weathered.
Click to expand...
thankfully more doors are comp/pvc frames

caulking on casing?no thanks,i have no problem with well placed trim nails
 
#39 ·
I'll never use wood brickmold on the outside anymore...if the frame is getting capped I'll bury it behind PVC BM.

No need to get fancy with the brake especially around doors.
 

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#40 ·
When you guys talk about a punch I always use one. I also predrill the nail hole before putting the nail in. I use a small bit, like 1/16" in my 12v Dewalt, small and can be in my tool belt pouch. It seems to me that I can get the nail set just perfect, no puckering or denting of metal. Then put touch up paint over top. I have gotten pretty good with the break, but I have seen some of your guys pics on break work and think, dang, got alot more to learn!
 
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