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cutting dimensional shingles.

16K views 39 replies 16 participants last post by  dougger222  
#1 ·
It's been a while but the last time i cut heavy dimensionals I used a hook knife and some big tin snips because it was cold. I heard they made a saw blade for them. Any suggestions. I have about 5 sq to put on a shed . Thanks. K2
 
#4 ·
I use hooks or snips, they make a shear for them, but can't imagine it would be worth it for 5 sq.

Had a curved rake once, I let them hang out a couple inches and then cut with a skilsaw. Worked fine.
 
#5 ·
Certainteed also sells an air powered saw for cutting shingles, but I would go with the normal hook blades for something so small.

Ed
 
#10 ·
Shingle shear

I run a starter shingle up the rake, measure and cut them as I work up the roof. I use a Shingle shear that resembles the old paper cutters we used to use in school. Cost me $300 so I don't think I would run out and buy one for a shed roof, but it also has a tape on it so it's only a matter of slapping the shingle on it pull down on the handle and I have a nice square cut shingle that fits
 
#12 ·
The Sheffield hookblades made in UK are the best and last three times as long as any other hook blade. We buy them in bulk. also tin snips or a shingle cutter are good for the supper heavy weight shingles.

RooferJim
Agreed. For those who favor individuality and custom tools, try a Plumb wood shingle hatchet (not the awful club used for asphalt), cut off the heel, drill a couple of holes to hold the Sheffield blades (one for center, another directly below it to hold the blade at a slight angle back toward the handle), and you will have a hatchet that most roofers can only dream about.

If you are less intrigued by custom tools, an AJC hatchet with a straight blade works reasonably well for trimming rakes. However, when it comes to trimming open valleys, the Sheffield blade--especially mounted on a hatchet--is a joy to work with.

When using a nail gun, why would anyone care about a blade on a hatchet? Because we typically use guns for full-shingle runs, with another roofer doing the trim and detail work. It is the same principle as building leads in masonry; the higher-skilled masons build the corners, the lesser-skilled masons fill in the courses between. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment a little. It will be worth the effort.
tekwrytr
 
#13 ·
Snips? Skillsaws? Air powered saws? C'mon guys.... you know your father's would laugh at you.

Why dont you just use a hook blade? All it takes is a little practice... I've cut 3 dimensional shingles in 10 degree weather all day and not lost one bit of skin on my knuckles.

You just score them first with your hookblade, cutting from the top... then after the nail line, if its in the tooth, you just cut the top layer first, then come back and follow the same line to cut the shingle in two.

Real easy.
 
#14 ·
Btw, I also run a starter up the edges, gives me a kind of a guideline for cutting, even if the house isn't square.

The problem I see with you guys talking about just dropping the handle is this...

If it makes a perfect cut every time, what will you do if your house or whatever is totally out of square... say you are doing a reroof for some old lady and her husband who couldn't read built it back in '29 or something.
 
#15 ·
In high school the shop teacher said to turn the shingles upside down and cut with a straight blade knife. Have yet to see a roofer do this in the "real world". What your shop teacher teaches you in high school and what goes on in the real work are two different things. Since the teacher knew I was in a family of reputable roofers he asked me what I thought. At the age of 17 told him this, "My family does roofing for a living, we don't use a square and a flat blade for laying shingles. Your idea looks great in this nice and warm shop were in but out there your way would be laughed at.

Never wasted a pair of tin snips on a shingle. Always thought snips were for metal and hooked blades for shingles.

Of the hundreds and hundreds of roofs I've done in the past 10 years all have had "bleeders" run up the rakes. When looking up from the ground it's the best finished look, IMO.
 
#16 ·
Your shop teacher was right. IMO

Hanging them over and cutting with a hook blade later is a waste of time and a waste of shingles. If you are shingling correctly in a stair step pattern, you should cut as you go to use the scraps. This can save you how much on shingles, clean up, and time. Think of the money you are throwing away.
 
#20 ·
When running laminates I cut as I go but most don't. My father cuts and uses as he goes and does the same for the other end (gable or hip). His waste is next to nothing.

When running a section to the right nothing is faster than chaulking a line and pulling out the hook blade, IMO. On most rakes I like to cut the bottom half seperate than the top half in case the rake is out of whack. On really long runs I may chaulk and cut three or four different times.

All the time spent flipping over a shingle is a waste, IMO.
 
#17 ·
If it's real cold and you just gotta be out there doing it,there is another way of cutting these heavy shingles with very little effort,
I'm not sure they make them any more,so it may be hard to find,but well worth the effort if you do a lot of cold weather roofing.
It' an old asbestos siding cutter that looks like a big paper cutter.It's heavy and awkward,but if you want to cut all your starters ahead of time,set it on a roof plank nearby ,and with one push of the handle your done.
Look at tag or garage sales .I found mine at the local landfill, oiled it up ,and it works great.
 
#21 ·
I hear you dougger. If you cut as you go then there isn't much waste. As far as flipping them over and getting a good cut.....That is why you have your top shingler doing the slower things like edges, chimneys, etc....and your fast shingler doing the open areas. I know it seems like a waste of time, but it actually is faster in the end. Same as taking the time to lay out your bundles before you shingle rather than laying one bundle at a time and then getting up for the next bundle at the top of the roof.
I understand everyone has their own way though. I just feel that we have tried every way and have found the most efficient ways. Stair stepping, cutting as you go, doing our valleys with no cuts, starting in either direction...etc...
 
#29 ·
I agree with that. :thumbup:

My father does edges, and metal work.... I just nail on like hell in the open areas and valleys. We hand nail and go very fast. Also, I try to always lace my valleys if I can. I very RARELY have to cut a valley. Only if the pitches arn't the same by an extreme amount. And we always cut our edges when we go... We can do it just as fast as any other way by running the starter shingle up the edge. You just cut back about an 1/8 inch. Not visible from the ground... even on low roofs.
 
#23 ·
Really? Well, I'm none of those things, so here's a first for you. Just finished a roof today that the gable rake went from a 12" to a 24" over 15 feet. I hung the shingles out a couple inches long all the way up, snapped a line, and cut them with a circular saw. Looks great, perfect line, WAY faster than trying to cut a small angle on each shingle and get them PERFECT.

Though come to think of it, I am an immigrant: my g,g,g,g,grandparents moved here from somewhere. :thumbsup:
 
#24 ·
I always pre-cut all of my edge shingles. I set up a jig(I have a jig for everything) by screwing a straight edge to the floor that I can slide my shingle under. I flip my shingle over (smooth side up) and use a straight blade. I cut all of my shingles before I even start installing them, that way, when I get to installation, it goes much faster, and the final product is a much nicer edge than if you used a hook knife. Not to mention your knuckles will thank you.
 
#25 ·
I run a soldier course shingle up the edge then as I go with the dimensionals I cut the edge with a pair of snipa along the edge with the soldier as a guide and reuse the scrap on the next fitting course. For me its fastand almost no waste like this. My edges always look clean and straight.
 
#26 ·
I agree with cutting as you go_On dimensional shingles there is virtually no waste.By stair stepping the shingles and using the cut offs as subsequent starters there is only a 18" leftover on the starting end of your run which I use for the next run as one of the starters.There is absolutely no waste on this end.
At the end of the run,I use full shingles,flip ,line up with soldier,place a small starter cut at the outside edge of the soldier and use the last course of applied shingle as a guide for a straight cut.If you keep your elbow stiff and draw the hook blade along the leading edge of the last course ,the cut will be even and the remaining piece will butt nicely against a higher course as needed by size.
This technique may take some practice,but not having a lot of scrap at the end of a job means less clean up and a more efficient job.
 
#28 ·
LOL Ok, not immigrants....mexicans

We do the same oldfrt.

With butterfly gables, sure you can get a good edge. It was already mentioned but we also run a starter shingle up the gable end. It makes a much better edge.
By the time you pull out a chalk line, get your electrical cord and saw, you already wasted how much time. I'm not saying my way is better for all, but it is better and faster for me.
 
#32 ·
I've posted pictures of our valleys. They are not weaved.

What happened to doing your own work dougger?

Biggest crew we had was 6 guys and would do a house a day, but it was tough getting work done and watching to make sure evrything was done right. With 12 guys, I don't know how quality assurance can be had, unless they are all family.
 
#37 ·
Too busy right now to be laboring. Next Spring if things slow like in the past will be on every roof again. More than likely will be lucky to get half the roofs done this year. I'm only going to about 1/2-3/4 of the calls I get. 95%+ of my calls are word of mouth.

The job that had 12 people was actually my crew and my brothers crew, we teamed up on it. Do you consider this teaming up? I had four trips to the job, permit, plus phone calls. The day the job was done I was there on site for 7-8 hours and my brother was there for 3 hours. 4 guys from my crew and 8 guys from his crew showed up, all white. It was an 8/12 12/12, Eden Prairie. Even though his crew was double the size of mine half of his were laborers my four were installers.

Don't most shingle manufacturer recommend either open or closed (one cut) valley method? Could have sworn some roofers here post that the manufacturers don't recommend weaving the valleys.

Never seen Certainteed mention the running the shingle up the valley method. On homes done this way I can spot it in the valleys and I don't like it, sorry, personal opinion. I'm sure it's fast and with no cutting obviously it's easier. Something about running laminates only horizontally.