doing a deck and am thinking of buying a transit to lay out the posts is this a good idea or is the old 3-4-5 method easier if it is a good idea does any one know how to use a transit for laying out posts and for fence posts. how about setting the line for the posts so it is straight.
transit level for deck posts
lemoncoke
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doing a deck and am thinking of buying a transit to lay out the posts is this a good idea or is the old 3-4-5 method easier if it is a good idea does any one know how to use a transit for laying out posts and for fence posts. how about setting the line for the posts so it is straight.
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IMHO, setting up a transit is a bit of overkill when a > than $10 water level will fill the bill. I have both and the transit has been collecting dust for years. Same with my sliderule.
what is the easy way to line the posts up so they are in a straight line.
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i use my transit cause i thought i needed one and bought it. before that i used a water level. i use what ever i have on had at the time. funny thing i have noticed is when i pull out the transit, the homeowner's attitude changes. they are become all uh's and ah's and ask to look through it. funny what impresses them.:whistling
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Are you using it to square the deck or to level it? To level the deck it would be a simple process..to square it, i would use the 3,4,5 method. Setting the plumb line and deteriming square with a transit or builders level would be a pain in the butt compared to something simple like a batter board and string line.
I just build the deck first and then set beams, posts, piers after the frame. Frame is all squared up and level no guesswork.
If it is close to the ground then I will use string lines and stakes to layout the piers. The last one we stringlined came out dead on. Just take the time to lay it all out properly with the string lines and your golden.
If it is close to the ground then I will use string lines and stakes to layout the piers. The last one we stringlined came out dead on. Just take the time to lay it all out properly with the string lines and your golden.
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A water level will hold level for miles if done properly. Tight strings (300# Dacron or Spectra fishing line) will keep you within 1/16" for minor runs (< than 100 ft.).
Setting up a transit in your situation = wasted time to me.
Setting up a transit in your situation = wasted time to me.
Kinda sounds like you're new to deck building too.
No offense but you're asking pretty basic questions when you list you're trade as "decks and remodelling"...
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John<< does it the exact same way. I bring out the lazer leval to set grade on a big trellis for the post height but the whole thing is straight/plumb/leval /square before anything else gets goen on.
:thumbsup: right on. H2o levels are the best. if you want a good one, you might have to make your own.
yes have only built a few decks mostly interior remodeling is what my trade is and I have never used a transit and was wondering if it can be used to set a straight line for fence posts and deck footings.
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You've asked this question multiple times in this thread, folks have answered but not directly...
To set posts in a straight line -
Figure out exact placement for first and last post (measure out from the house)
Set first and last post in line
Run a stringline from first to last on the outside edge,
Install all intermediate posts using the string line to keep them in line with each other
A stringline is much cheaper than a transit and is a better tool for the job.
Squaring up your structural framing -
use the 3,4,5 method only go with 6,8,10
Measure 6' along the house, measure 8' out your first joist (sight it to make sure the joist itself is straight), make sure the measurement between those two marks is 10'. You could also go with 9,12,15 since your deck is 14' wide.
When your structure is complete, cross measure to make sure it's square - take two diagonal measurements across your structure (from house on left to rim joist on right and vice versa) - they should be the same number. If they aren't, you need to scoot your structure until they are. Joists should not be fastened to the beam before this step! If your measurements are off by an inch, you need to move your structure 1/2" towards the larger number. Of course, this is assuming you can lump a 22' structure. At 5' high, you should be able to shoulder two joists in the center and push it to one side.
If I can offer some strong advice, make damn sure you know what you're doing with the hot tub deck structural framing. You might post your plans for framing the 10'x10' deck so we could help make sure your clients don't take a fall when they invite some friends over to go hot tubbing. I'm not trying to belittle you, just realize that a freestanding 10'x10' deck sitting 4'-6" high holding a few thousand pounds of water and people needs to be adequately built. As you're a remodeling guy getting into building decks, this project might be better built if it's engineered than winging it.
Mac
P.S. If you want to buy a transit, buy a transit. If you're trying to justify the purchase to wifey, this is not the project.
To set posts in a straight line -
Figure out exact placement for first and last post (measure out from the house)
Set first and last post in line
Run a stringline from first to last on the outside edge,
Install all intermediate posts using the string line to keep them in line with each other
A stringline is much cheaper than a transit and is a better tool for the job.
Squaring up your structural framing -
use the 3,4,5 method only go with 6,8,10
Measure 6' along the house, measure 8' out your first joist (sight it to make sure the joist itself is straight), make sure the measurement between those two marks is 10'. You could also go with 9,12,15 since your deck is 14' wide.
When your structure is complete, cross measure to make sure it's square - take two diagonal measurements across your structure (from house on left to rim joist on right and vice versa) - they should be the same number. If they aren't, you need to scoot your structure until they are. Joists should not be fastened to the beam before this step! If your measurements are off by an inch, you need to move your structure 1/2" towards the larger number. Of course, this is assuming you can lump a 22' structure. At 5' high, you should be able to shoulder two joists in the center and push it to one side.
If I can offer some strong advice, make damn sure you know what you're doing with the hot tub deck structural framing. You might post your plans for framing the 10'x10' deck so we could help make sure your clients don't take a fall when they invite some friends over to go hot tubbing. I'm not trying to belittle you, just realize that a freestanding 10'x10' deck sitting 4'-6" high holding a few thousand pounds of water and people needs to be adequately built. As you're a remodeling guy getting into building decks, this project might be better built if it's engineered than winging it.
Mac
P.S. If you want to buy a transit, buy a transit. If you're trying to justify the purchase to wifey, this is not the project.
water level and a plumb bob, won't ever be beat for acuracy (there i go trying to spell those fancy words again), and if you take a look at some of the pictures mac has posted, you would be wise to heed his advice, as a matter of fact, all that have posted in this thread are very accomplished in there field, listen young jeddi and you will learn much. :thumbsup:
I'd get the transit, you can impress your relatives the next time you have them over for dinner by using the transit to make absolutely perfect place settings.
I think we're talking about getting the posts aligned in a row, not across the tops (I might be wrong), I'm not sure how a water level would help with that or what a plumb bob would do for you if you don't have anything to drop from. For getting them aligned in a row I'm with BuiltByMAC:
I think we're talking about getting the posts aligned in a row, not across the tops (I might be wrong), I'm not sure how a water level would help with that or what a plumb bob would do for you if you don't have anything to drop from. For getting them aligned in a row I'm with BuiltByMAC:
I would just add one thing, instead of putting the string directly on the post, use a piece of 1x material to keep the string 3/4"s out. The reason for this is if you are setting several posts and one of them pushes the string out it will mess up the alignment for the rest. Set your posts, use a piece of 1x scrap or a tape measure to locate it and a level to level it.
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Good call on the spacer, Mickey!
Mac
Mac
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