Guys got a bad one here. Most are bad in this area but this is beyond bad. What is the game plan and what's involved with fixing this. Who do I call as I this is beyond my skill level.
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Band board completely rotted out what's next?
The Coastal Craftsman
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Correct me if I am wrong, but it appears that the door is not original. Looking at the 1x doubled under the door and the trim detail, this is a replacement. It also appears that the rim joist may be the least of your worries. There may be sub floor damage as well. Jacking almost seems inevitable to make this repair. Agree with minimal jacking just enough to slide out framing and replace as needed. Further investigation may also be needed. If budget allows, pop the door and install proper pan flashing and drip caps.
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Yeah the doors were new. They were done by another company a little while before I started the deck.
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Looks like a money maker for sure.
These aren't very hard, they just take some time to figure out the best way to do it. Once you have a plan, go for it, though be ready to change directions at a moments notice.
Jacking will be easy, unless you have rotted joist ends, then it becomes a bigger deal. On these, I just cut out the bad spots on the studs and fill and sister one next to it as long as I can without tearing up anymore wall than needed. If you have bad joist ends, you will have bad subfloor which leads to other fun stuff.
Oh, and I'm jealous. I love dryrot work.. I'm weird that way.
These jobs are always T&M at my highest rate. You can't afford to skimp on these repairs and neither can the HO. If it was a bottom floor, you might be able to cludge in a cheaper repair if needed, but not up there.
These aren't very hard, they just take some time to figure out the best way to do it. Once you have a plan, go for it, though be ready to change directions at a moments notice.
Jacking will be easy, unless you have rotted joist ends, then it becomes a bigger deal. On these, I just cut out the bad spots on the studs and fill and sister one next to it as long as I can without tearing up anymore wall than needed. If you have bad joist ends, you will have bad subfloor which leads to other fun stuff.
Oh, and I'm jealous. I love dryrot work.. I'm weird that way.
These jobs are always T&M at my highest rate. You can't afford to skimp on these repairs and neither can the HO. If it was a bottom floor, you might be able to cludge in a cheaper repair if needed, but not up there.
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Here's a couple pics of one I did a year or so ago. Installed a beam in the crawlspace and jacked away.
Attachments
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So when I jack the joists up is it ok the rest a bean across the 5-6 joists then jack that beam up at a few points even with the drywall between the beam and joists.
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I recall there being a couple articles on fine home building regarding this exact problem. Maybe check it out.
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Cut the drywall out. Its going to be crushed by the lft and potentially cause settling while working. Why fight it?
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what I'm
Thinking to do it put a 2x10 and then a 4x6 ontop of the jacks to spread the weight out. I will then jack until I take pressure off the band board and will check by making a cut the length of the band board. If blade gets snug I will lift the jacks some more until the blade is no longer getting snagged up.
Thinking to do it put a 2x10 and then a 4x6 ontop of the jacks to spread the weight out. I will then jack until I take pressure off the band board and will check by making a cut the length of the band board. If blade gets snug I will lift the jacks some more until the blade is no longer getting snagged up.
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You will know...And ignore the creaking and cracking and all the other scary noises.
A bottle jack every 4-6 feet, little at a time.
We put weight on but don't lift. Run the blade and get as many nails cut as possible. Lift as needed while cutting, don't fight to much but lifting with it all attached is also pulling against the hold downs and the floor below. You are only trying to take the weight from above, not pull up below.
A bottle jack every 4-6 feet, little at a time.
We put weight on but don't lift. Run the blade and get as many nails cut as possible. Lift as needed while cutting, don't fight to much but lifting with it all attached is also pulling against the hold downs and the floor below. You are only trying to take the weight from above, not pull up below.
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We make t's out of 2x4's for above the jacks. You can also use jacking lally columns but you need the right length for every job. And we use the jacks for under pinning so there is no reason to purchase more stuff.
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The HO has a few of them acro jack columns or what ever they are called and I have a nice size bottle jack to use to lift with too.
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Jack columns are nice.
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We have done quite a few of these type jobs. It doesn't take a lot to get pressure off the wall to replace the box. Sometimes I will build a temp support wall instead of jacking. It just depends how much needs replaced. I have also used a small I beam to jack against. We have a couple 12' x 6" ones with holes drilled every 16". We will screw the beam to the joists and then jack against it. Once it has some pressure cut some 2x4 t-posts to hold it in place. Don't cou t on the jacks to hold position for any length of time.
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x2 have replaced in small sections. with that much rot it isn't carrying much anyway.
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Band board completely rotted
Easy does it little at a time. Flashing is key here when going back. Good ol t111.
Easy does it little at a time. Flashing is key here when going back. Good ol t111.
We use acros with two 2x10 planks (rough sawn) up on the ceiling and one or two on the floor. I don't think I've dealt with drywall before, but plaster ceilings are usually ok with a drop cloth between the ceiling and plank- as long as you are under the strapping. It's good to check for that. If the joists need sistering, then disregard. Good luck!
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Im all out of thank buttons but thanks guys.
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