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#41 ·
I know I have asked questions about certain things and fields in construction that I have zero experience with. Like tiling and waterproofing showers. They definitely came off like DIY questions. There is always something even you know it alls out there don't know about.
Anyway, I wouldn't worry about the rpms of a saw. I'd be more worried about all the other stuff like bevel and miter capacity, double bevel, slider etc. with a sharp blade they all should work fine. I have an older 10" Bosch slider double bevel. It used to be nice. Still doing ok though, but going to be a framing saw soon. I think I'd go 12" next time.
 
#43 ·
Morning Wood said:
I know I have asked questions about certain things and fields in construction that I have zero experience with. Like tiling and waterproofing showers. They definitely came off like DIY questions. There is always something even you know it alls out there don't know about.
Anyway, I wouldn't worry about the rpms of a saw. I'd be more worried about all the other stuff like bevel and miter capacity, double bevel, slider etc. with a sharp blade they all should work fine. I have an older 10" Bosch slider double bevel. It used to be nice. Still doing ok though, but going to be a framing saw soon. I think I'd go 12" next time.
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Okay, the one post wonder said he was a carpenter and asked if a 10" blade or 12" blade would make a smoother cut. We are not talking about a contractor who has posted on here with a proper intro and a bit of vetting.

And if you listed yourself as a tiler and asked some questions like that concerning tile tools, I would also be very suspicious.

BTW, RPM is something to consider when cutting finish material. I agree that double bevel and capacity on all levels is more important, but I would suggest not worrying about RPM.
 
#44 ·
I didn't mean to stir the pot. I was just saying that I sound like a doofus a lot. I agree on your assessment of the original question. Kinda like my father just now texting me to ask which direction to turn the regulator to increase pressure. Talk about a waste of time.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I thought DeWalt would be the way to go since it looked easy to align. It has a stationary fence. The turn table gets adjusted to the fence, not the other way around like other brands. The Hitachi has a two piece fence which looks tough to keep aligned properly. One thing I noticed about some 10" miter saws like the DeWalt and Rigid is that they have a preset lever to lock the turn table into place. When locking the turn table into place the entire table moves away from the fence. This stuff never mattered too much when doing rough carpentry but on interior trim work it does, not to mention furniture or a picture frame. How do you calibrate that?
 
#46 ·
Sonoma Coma said:
I thought DeWalt would be the way to go since it looked easy to align. It has a stationary fence. The turn table gets adjusted to the fence, not the other way around like other brands. The Hitachi has a two piece fence which looks tough to keep aligned properly. One thing I noticed about some 10" miter saws like the DeWalt and Rigid is that they have a preset lever to lock the turn table into place. When locking the turn table into place the entire table moves away from the fence. This stuff never mattered too much when doing rough carpentry but on interior trim work it does, not to mention furniture or a picture frame. How do you calibrate that?
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nice.
 
#48 ·
Sonoma Coma said:
I thought DeWalt would be the way to go since it looked easy to align. It has a stationary fence. The turn table gets adjusted to the fence, not the other way around like other brands. The Hitachi has a two piece fence which looks tough to keep aligned properly. One thing I noticed about some 10" miter saws like the DeWalt and Rigid is that they have a preset lever to lock the turn table into place. When locking the turn table into place the entire table moves away from the fence. This stuff never mattered too much when doing rough carpentry but on interior trim work it does, not to mention furniture or a picture frame. How do you calibrate that?
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Over thinking it much?
 
#51 ·
For a framing miter saw just go to HFT and buy the 12 inch slider for 120. Get the 2 year warranty and take it back after you kill it.

I bought one to cut FC trim and siding thinking the dust would kill it fast and its still chugging along. Use the dewalt 780 for everything else.
 
#52 ·
tccoggs said:
For a framing miter saw just go to HFT and buy the 12 inch slider for 120. Get the 2 year warranty and take it back after you kill it.

I bought one to cut FC trim and siding thinking the dust would kill it fast and its still chugging along. Use the dewalt 780 for everything else.
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I've bought other tools from there for the same reason and can't kill those either. Outlasted my red and blue tools by a bunch. Dewalt miters are the best though
 
#53 ·
illbuildit.dd said:
I've bought other tools from there for the same reason and can't kill those either. Outlasted my red and blue tools by a bunch. Dewalt miters are the best though
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must be why there always middle of the pack in just about every trade mag saw review.. and why the service shops always stock the bearings that always go on their saws.. instead of dewalt actually dealing with it properly and getting a better source for when they put out a newer model.. l
 
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#54 ·
woodworkbykirk said:
must be why there always middle of the pack in just about every trade mag saw review.. and why the service shops always stock the bearings that always go on their saws.. instead of dewalt actually dealing with it properly and getting a better source for when they put out a newer model.. l
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Making me think...... I have a task force saw I use for framing and siding. A while back I was putting crown on some cabinets I built and used the HO saw because it was set up and he offered which was a craftsman and was identical to the task force. I wonder who makes those?
 
#55 ·
Every carpenter will have a preference on the best saw. I run the 716 and have run the same saw for 10 years. The bearings have been replaced twice. The brushes have been replaced twice. I agree that Dewalt should improve their quality. It is a weak spot in their miter saws, but given the amount of product that has gone across my saw I don't find the repair out of line especially since I run standard kerf blades vs thin kerf with plate thicknesses between .095 and .098.

I place very little faith in magazine reviews. I know too many people that write them. DeWalt saws are nothing fancy or special. Aside from the light add on their are no frills to kick them to the top of a review. They have the highest vertical capacity currently available on a miter saw now that Milwaukee discontinued their chopsaw. I cut in position and most of what I need to cut falls comfortably within its range. They are reasonably priced. While they aren't feather weight they are not overly heavy and are an easy carry. They tune up easily and maintain that accuracy. I checked mine last week and it was off 0.00175 on a 5 cut which was what I tuned it to in the fall.

My DeWalt saws have been work horses. They aren't sexy but they are accurate and reliable. Mileage may vary. Maybe I've just gotten lucky.
 
#56 ·
Justin Huisenga said:
Every carpenter will have a preference on the best saw. I run the 716 and have run the same saw for 10 years. The bearings have been replaced twice. The brushes have been replaced twice. I agree that Dewalt should improve their quality. It is a weak spot in their miter saws, but given the amount of product that has gone across my saw I don't find the repair out of line especially since I run standard kerf blades vs thin kerf with plate thicknesses between .095 and .098.

I place very little faith in magazine reviews. I know too many people that write them. DeWalt saws are nothing fancy or special. Aside from the light add on their are no frills to kick them to the top of a review. They have the highest vertical capacity currently available on a miter saw now that Milwaukee discontinued their chopsaw. I cut in position and most of what I need to cut falls comfortably within its range. They are reasonably priced. While they aren't feather weight they are not overly heavy and are an easy carry. They tune up easily and maintain that accuracy. I checked mine last week and it was off 0.00175 on a 5 cut which was what I tuned it to in the fall.

My DeWalt saws have been work horses. They aren't sexy but they are accurate and reliable. Mileage may vary. Maybe I've just gotten lucky.
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Sometimes it is just pure luck. Dewalt miters have always been good to me all around. And any saw I've ever used that is lighter in weight that others feel very flimsy to me. I've carried dewalt everywhere and it stays true. I had a ryobi 12"... Lasted 11 or so years before it was stolen.
 
#57 ·
Rpm of the blade is actually irrelevant on its own. Its the combination on diameter + tooth count + rpm that determines cuts per inch at a given feed rate. Large diameter blade will spin slower because the rim speed is the same as a smaller diameter blade spinning at a higher rpm.

You will see this with large molding machines. We ran a small wienig when I worked in the millshop , which spun a 5 inch head with 2 blades at about 6000 rpm and you could get a great finish at 30 feet per minute. The high end wienig machines used by flooring manufactures run at 600+ feet per minute. To achieve feed rates that high they use a much larger diameter head at the same rpm, however they also bump the knives per head up to 8 or more, but if you do the math the cuts per inch are actually still the same as my small machine.

Wood master machines typically on use 1 knife and a counter balance on the head. You can get the same cut quality, but your feet rate will max out around 8-12 feet per minute.
 
#59 ·
TNTSERVICES said:
Molding machines are not miter saws. There really is no feed rate on a miter.
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Lower the saw slowly into the material or slam it into the material, and tell me there is no feed rate on a miter saw. Also, all else being equal, higher RPM generally results in a cleaner cut in wood, look at small 5" trim saws.
 
#60 ·
m1911 said:
Lower the saw slowly into the material or slam it into the material, and tell me there is no feed rate on a miter saw. Also, all else being equal, higher RPM generally results in a cleaner cut in wood, look at small 5" trim saws.
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That's why I think the mafell track saw will have cleaner cuts in most material due to not only the added power, but another 1000 rpm's, Contrary to what others say. I'm sure the mafell engineers are not stupid. Been doing this a long time, and unless it's plastic or a similar material higher rpm's are better.

I also believe festool would've made the ts55 more powerful but like others said it would take market share away from the ts75.
 
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