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Composite mitered stair treads. Screw the miter?

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Spencer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I understand the risks with permanently joining long composite boards due to expansion/contraction.

What is your preferred method for keeping stair tread miters together when doing a border on treads? (Treads 3-4' wide)

Also any tricks for keeping them even on the flat? Seems like a composite biscuit would do wonders but I haven't seen any???
 
#5 ·
trex

just did my first trex .it is not wood .glue doesn't stick to it .i did use the domino with more success then not using it .kept joints lined up .so far the domino joints have open less then the ones with out .worked real well for line up . i did not top screw anywhere .used pocket screws underneath when the little clips did not work .you could pocket screw the miters though haven't seen what change of weather will do to it .could just pop it apart . trex ruins blades and the domino bit was blue after a few cuts.
 
#6 ·
If we are putting down a inexpensive composite it gets faced screwed. I pl premium the joint, face screw and put 2 edge screws.
We went back to this house 4 years after the project was completed. The joints never opened up.
 

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#7 ·
I've been pocket screwing the miter and then adding a cortex near the point. I also only secure the return board near the square end so it can pivot a bit and absorb the expansion and contraction of the long board without breaking the miter.

I've also been trying to avoid this type of tread detail as it's a major slowdown. I like the look but this year I did all my stairs with and extended stringer fascia and butted the treads into them or did a 1.5" return detail so I didn't have to add blocking. We'll see how those are holding up next year.
 
#10 ·
I don't do anything against manufacturers recommendations unless I'm willing to own the product warranty.
 
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#11 ·
One of the first things I did when finally getting into man made material was test them with a glue up. End,Edge and flat.

That was when trex was advertising all sorts of things that were turning out to be false so I started testing most all brands as if no one had said anything. Simple non scientific , testing same as I would any new wood spices .

Moisture Shield passed ,TimberTech didn't but I liked their T&G material so I settled on those two. When new instructions came out to expose the weep slots in the TT T&G I stopped using it and have been putting down Moisture Shield exclusive so I don't know what all the new stuff will do, No Need to know. Manmade numbers and differences are legion when I found something that worked I stayed with it.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
EthanB said:
I've also been trying to avoid this type of tread detail as it's a major slowdown. I like the look but this year I did all my stairs with and extended stringer fascia and butted the treads into them or did a 1.5" return detail so I didn't have to add blocking. We'll see how those are holding up next year.
Click to expand...
No doubt that is faster. But aren't you begging for a crappy looking job down the line after the freeze thaw cycle takes its toll on that facia board? Seems like it could be disastrous leaving that open channel for water/snow/ice debris...
 
#14 ·
John Hyatt said:
One of the first things I did when finally getting into man made material was test them with a glue up. End,Edge and flat.

That was when trex was advertising all sorts of things that were turning out to be false so I started testing most all brands as if no one had said anything. Simple non scientific , testing same as I would any new wood spices .

Moisture Shield passed ,TimberTech didn't but I liked their T&G material so I settled on those two. When new instructions came out to expose the weep slots in the TT T&G I stopped using it and have been putting down Moisture Shield exclusive so I don't know what all the new stuff will do, No Need to know. Manmade numbers and differences are legion when I found something that worked I stayed with it.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com
Click to expand...
Moisture shield fades. It's old generation stuff. It may last but if doesn't stay looking the same. Putting a coating on it just doesn't make sense to me. The whole idea of a MM not coating it.
 
#17 ·
Spencer said:
No doubt that is faster. But aren't you begging for a crappy looking job down the line after the freeze thaw cycle takes its toll on that facia board? Seems like it could be disastrous leaving that open channel for water/snow/ice debris...
Click to expand...
Nope. I don't do something just because it's faster. I put 1/4" pt spacers along the stringer before mounting the fascia and then have a 3/16" gap between the tread and the fascia. It's no more likely to look bad than any other gap on my deck. I also don't use the 1/2" fascia. It's full deck boards for me. Here's a garapa one I just did with that detail.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
EthanB said:
Nope. I don't do something just because it's faster. I put 1/4" pt spacers along the stringer before mounting the fascia and then have a 3/16" gap between the tread and the fascia. It's no more likely to look bad than any other gap on my deck. I also don't use the 1/2" fascia. It's full deck boards for me. Here's a garapa one I just did with that detail.
Click to expand...
Glad I asked! :thumbup:
 
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Spencer
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