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Bollard post installation

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Jeepkid

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a commercial customer looking to get bollards installed in front of there stores. The metal pipe with concrete filled in the center.

Currently they have cured concrete and or black top, its three different locations.

What I am asking is can i use a core drill to make 6 inch holes to set the bollards and fill, or what other options is there for getting a hole to set a post 2 to 3 feet in the ground. ?

I haven't checked but do you think any codes or permits would be involved for something like this?

Thanks for any advice.
 
#6 ·
Jeepkid said:
I have a commercial customer looking to get bollards installed in front of there stores. The metal pipe with concrete filled in the center.

Currently they have cured concrete and or black top, its three different locations.

What I am asking is can i use a core drill to make 6 inch holes to set the bollards and fill, or what other options is there for getting a hole to set a post 2 to 3 feet in the ground. ?

I haven't checked but do you think any codes or permits would be involved for something like this?

Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
JR Shepstone said:
I've set them inside buildings with the 6" or 8" core drill. Usually at a depth between 12"-24" below finished floor.
Click to expand...

Just what the heck size bollards you guys setting in a 6-8" hole?

Bollards I set are 6-8" in diameter or 5-6" sq tube.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
All i seem to see is up to a 12 inch diameter?

Why such the large hole if the customer wants a 4" pipe?

Would you suggest to just buy metal pipe in the proper length or order from probuild the premade ones?
 
#10 ·
griz said:
Just what the heck size bollards you guys setting in a 6-8" hole? Bollards I set are 6-8" in diameter or 5-6" sq tube.
Click to expand...
4" bollard. Sometimes a 6".

The company I worked for did it this way. And it was usually inside a warehouse. Core drill. Wedge it plumb. Fill it. Then grout around it.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
JR Shepstone said:
You can rent the drill. The bit will last a good while if you go easy on it and keep it wet.
Click to expand...

The rental place wants to charge $60 for the bit then pro rate $100 per inch of use. I see i can get bits online for around 200-300

Would it be wise to order a few bits?

Never done this before and would like to just be prepared on site with crew.
 
#13 ·
4" bollard is more of a bump stop or delineator.

Have a concrete cutting outfit core your holes then just install your bollards.

4" schd 40 pipe or look in to 3-4" 1/8" wall sq tube.

Paint as required.

Generally way less expensive than some sort of factory bollard.
 
#14 · (Edited)
griz said:
...
Have a concrete cutting outfit core your holes then just install your bollards.
...
Click to expand...
What Griz says, especially if you're doing 32 posts. Be a general contractor, not an amateur coring guy. Your customer's going to be lots happier if it all happens efficiently.

Edit: Make them deep enough, too. Even if you're making bump stops more than bollards, it doesn't take much of a bump to tip a 4" post 24" deep.

And make sure you know where the utilities are; I've seen a couple of parking lot washouts.
 
#18 ·
Don't overlook the finishing of the concrete on top. Lousy concrete on the top of a bollard is just like lousy concrete anywhere else. If you're going for a rounded top, use about a 12" square of visqueen like a shoe-shine rag, and don't leave it looking like a ice cream cone.
 
#19 ·
pritch said:
Don't overlook the finishing of the concrete on top. Lousy concrete on the top of a bollard is just like lousy concrete anywhere else. If you're going for a rounded top, use about a 12" square of visqueen like a shoe-shine rag, and don't leave it looking like a ice cream cone.
Click to expand...
I just learned something.
 
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