How to finish banister- white with stained handrail

Spencer · Sep 2, 2013

What is standard procedure for finishing a banister that has white spindles with a stained wood handrail? I'm spraying all the rest of the trim with an airless in place.

I'm pretty inexperienced with finishing stairs. Didn't know what works best?

Do you mask off the handrail spray, spray the trim, go back and finish the wood later??? Stair will have carpet.

Something like this:

Spencer · Sep 2, 2013

This is what I'm doing. Don't ask about the paint on the wall. Long embarrassing story. Also if you've got any ideas on how to design it with newel posts and whatnot I'm all ears. Don't have much experience with trimming stairs. How to handle the bottom has me stumped.

Buckeye Don · Sep 2, 2013

Spencer said:
What is standard procedure for finishing a banister that has white spindles with a stained wood handrail? I'm spraying all the rest of the trim with an airless in place.

I'm pretty inexperienced with finishing stairs. Didn't know what works best?

Do you mask off the handrail spray, spray the trim, go back and finish the wood later??? Stair will have carpet.

Something like this:

If we know the spindles get painted and railings stained, we leave the spindles out until punch list and the painters paint them before they are installed.

Buckeye Don · Sep 2, 2013

Spencer said:
This is what I'm doing. Don't ask about the paint on the wall. Long embarrassing story. Also if you've got any ideas on how to design it with newel posts and whatnot I'm all ears. Don't have much experience with trimming stairs. How to handle the bottom has me stumped.

Could make the two bottom treads and risers longer to extend past knee walls, and stain the ends where the carpet didn't cover.
Then set your Newell post on top of first tread.

Madmak · Sep 2, 2013

Buckeye Don said:
Could make the two bottom treads and risers longer to extend past knee walls, and stain the ends where the carpet didn't cover.
Then set your Newell post on top of first tread.

Yes, that would look nice and solve some issues.

Spencer · Sep 2, 2013

Buckeye Don said:
Could make the two bottom treads and risers longer to extend past knee walls, and stain the ends where the carpet didn't cover.
Then set your Newell post on top of first tread.

I like that idea. Another option would be to finish it like this:

http://www.houzz.com/photos/128372/Pine-Lake-1-traditional-staircase-grand-rapids

I'll get it drawn up on sketchup sometime.

I am wondering, if I make the bottom tread out of hardwood with a half circle on both ends, should I make the whole tread hardwood, or make end caps out of hardwood and have the carpet run between???

Next question, this stair is right beside the kitchen which will have a light oak hardwood floor. I was going to make the handrail the same stain color at the kitchen cabinets, should the treads match the floor stain color, or kitchen cabs/handrail color???

WarnerConstInc. · Sep 2, 2013

I would make the treads match the floor do the other finish on the hand rail.

I think it would be more work to try and make just the ends of the treads wood.

Buckeye Don · Sep 2, 2013

Spencer said:
I like that idea. Another option would be to finish it like this:

http://www.houzz.com/photos/128372/Pine-Lake-1-traditional-staircase-grand-rapids

I'll get it drawn up on sketchup sometime.

I am wondering, if I make the bottom tread out of hardwood with a half circle on both ends, should I make the whole tread hardwood, or make end caps out of hardwood and have the carpet run between???

Next question, this stair is right beside the kitchen which will have a light oak hardwood floor. I was going to make the handrail the same stain color at the kitchen cabinets, should the treads match the floor stain color, or kitchen cabs/handrail color???

If the bottom tread is the only one that is stained, you could stop the carpet at the second tread and expose all of the first tread.
I do like the idea of a rounded bottom tread if that goes with the rest of your design.
As far as color of stain, I think I would do it the same as the rest of stairs and cabinets.
I'm sure what ever you decide it'll look good.

Flag ship · Sep 2, 2013

1. I would set my bottom post to the existing framing rake wall.
2. I would return the starting tread on both sides of the stair case right and left. That will finish off the left side well.
3. open the second floor sub floor to set your post. lag them to the joist them reset the sub floor. They tend to get pulled on alot by kids make sure they have a very good set.
4. build the hand rail leave the spindels out. Like others have stated.
tip when seting the uppers into the ceiling and up your hand rail you will have to brad as you may know. I found I nice way to hold them in tight was with a dab of hot glue. Holds the joint tight till pinned. Dont cheat on the quality of the hot glue craft junk wont hold well.
5. color I would tie the hand rail to the cab's and the treads to the floor and rake cap maybe to the floor color.
6. this would be a nice rail if made continuous since your going to need a wall hand rail for code any way.
7. Easy way to set post to post heigth if cont. rail is performed from rake to flat rail. place your 4ft level on the steps running with rake place framing sq on that and read your height at starting post (first floor) transfer that number to your second floor post. Your conection and rake parel. will be perfect with out drama and math.

StrongTower · Sep 3, 2013

I would extend that rake wall down to the first riser or newel post location. I don't like mixing the knee wall design with open treads, unless it has a starting step and a big box newel. Next I would frame a wall down the knee wall until you have at least 38" of plumb wall to either terminate your hand rail into or do a 's' turn (double level quarter turn fittings) for your continuous hand rail. Handrail on the ceiling looks like an afterthought IMO. Prepaint the balusters, steps the floor color, newels/rail cab color. BTW that knee wall look really high...most knee walls I run into are 1 1/2" above the nose, much over that and the skirtboard will have to be really big.

Spencer · Sep 3, 2013

BTW that knee wall look really high...most knee walls I run into are 1 1/2" above the nose, much over that and the skirtboard will have to be really big.

It is too high. Another one chalked up to lack of experience. I actually had close to 1-1/2" above nose but wasn't sure it would be enough. Ended up putting 2- 2x's to raise it. I could actually possibly tear them off without affecting anything...hmmm....gonna have to think about that....

Next I would frame a wall down the knee wall until you have at least 38" of plumb wall to either terminate your hand rail into or do a 's' turn (double level quarter turn fittings) for your continuous hand rail. Handrail on the ceiling looks like an afterthought IMO.

I see what you're saying. It will have to be terminated something like this. I'm going to leave it being that all the drywall is done. But I will remember that for next time. I would also have to close up quite a bit of the stair to accomplish that and would rather not.

StrongTower · Sep 3, 2013

Spencer said:
It is too high. Another one chalked up to lack of experience. I actually had close to 1-1/2" above nose but wasn't sure it would be enough. Ended up putting 2- 2x's to raise it. I could actually possibly tear them off without affecting anything...hmmm....gonna have to think about that....

I would at least take one of the 2x's off. I like my skirt to dictate the rake angle of the stair, so it's always a 1/2"+ above the knee wall to eliminate any discrepancies in the framing. Also have to watch that for baluster height, some designs are meant for open treads, like double twist iron balusters and baskets, you run out of room. For pin top balusters its usually not a problem, just have to adjust the size of the hole in the rail.

You really don't lose that much of the staircase when you frame down that upper wall, and you end up with a better design. Obviously it's only 37-38" above the nose you're looking for.

Spencer · Sep 3, 2013

If I take off the 2 - 2x's I will have a good size hole at the top of the rake wall where the 2x's butt the ceiling. If I can cover it with the top rail on the ceiling that accepts my spindles it will be fine.

Everything is craftsman style. Square edges and straight lines. Shouldn't have to worry about issues with spindles.

I'm just looking at what it would take to do the drywall work to make it right and it looks like I'd be getting pretty involved. Not sure it would be worth it. I don't like the idea of jacking around that close to a finished textured ceiling either. I'd have to caulk that corner joint. I think I can make this look good the way it is, only ones who will know it isn't quite right is guys like us. I hate it but it may have to be what it is.

StrongTower · Sep 3, 2013

It'll pan out. Craftsman style is about all I do out here in Idaho... Your trim detail is great. Awesome work.

Spencer · Sep 3, 2013

StrongTower said:
It'll pan out. Craftsman style is about all I do out here in Idaho... Your trim detail is great. Awesome work.

Are you self employed? Do you mostly trim out new houses?

Its looking like I might be trimming out a new home this winter craftsman style, all walnut trim. Its a good chance to get my foot in the door with a local GC that I think could be decent to work for and a big PR boost. Its for a local excavator who is well known. Everyone knows you wouldn't touch his house unless you were good. Would like to find some guys on here to ask questions to about being a trim sub. Didn't know if the money can be decent if you're good or not. Thought it might be a good business model to have about half my work as a trim sub and the rest working direct for the HO. I think if I was strictly trimming new houses everyday I would get tired of it pretty quick....unless I could move quick enough that the money was sweet.

I'd like to find some trim subs on here to ask some questions to...

StrongTower · Sep 3, 2013

Spencer said:
Are you self employed? Do you mostly trim out new houses?

I'd like to find some trim subs on here to ask some questions to...

Have been self employed for 12 years, 8 have been exclusively finish work. I am a solo guy most of the time, doing tracts to customs. I partner up with other trusted subs on big jobs.

Almost all new construction with a little homeowner work if I have time.

PM me anytime.

StrongTower · Sep 3, 2013

Making money in finish work is all in the efficiency, it doesn't matter if its a tract or custom. You need a system to find ways to achieve quality results with a productive speed.

Flag ship · Sep 4, 2013

StrongTower said:
Making money in finish work is all in the efficiency, it doesn't matter if its a tract or custom. You need a system to find ways to achieve quality results with a productive speed.

Yep easy to get burned out in it. I had 5 full time workers in the peak of my trim years. Money was very good but 7 days a week gets old.

Spencer · Sep 4, 2013

Have been self employed for 12 years, 8 have been exclusively finish work. I am a solo guy most of the time, doing tracts to customs.

Yep easy to get burned out in it. I had 5 full time workers in the peak of my trim years. Money was very good but 7 days a week gets old.

What would you guys say the key is to not getting burned out, especially when you are running solo and anything getting done solely depends on you doing it? With my current job all the work falls on my shoulders, no one to share it with, I know how overwhelming it can be some days. I would imagine even more so being self employed.

Is it nice to throw in a few remodel jobs, decks, etc just to change it up once in a while?

StrongTower · Sep 4, 2013

Take one job at a time, don't take on too much. Know your limitations.

I actually enjoy working by myself, less stress. I've resisted many times to take on guys and just gave the work away.

I just enjoy doing finish carpentry. Gary Katz is a good resource with implementing methods that make even hanging doors fun.

How to finish banister- white with stained handrail

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