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Difference between 12/2 and an extension cord?

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Bender

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know thats a fairly dumb sounding question but can you guys help me with this?

I need to run power out to my stock tank to plug in a 1500W heater and a 300W heater(I think, maybe smaller) to my chicken coop. Its about 220ft from my power pole. The pole has 20amp GFCI on it already.

Can I buy a roll of 250 ft UF-b romex and put plugs on it, basically making a 250 extension cord? The tank heater says DO NOT use with an extension cord but whats the difference between adding a breaker and just using the GFCI?
 
#2 ·
Because extension cords have softer metal, the amount of resistance increases over long distance and could cause a fire. Hence the reason why they probably tell you don't use an extension cord.

So to answer your question, putting a plug on a UF cable would be better for your purposes. What I don't know is if you are going to have any voltage and/or current drop issues from running a wire that long but in this application it would be much better.

Are you in a position to connect the UF cable directly to the back side of the GFI vs. using a plug?
 
#3 ·
I don't see much difference between the two. Most likely this statement is for the idiot who is going to take a 18ga lamp extension cord and use it to run a 1500 watt heater.

At 220 ft you should be using better that 12 ga to keep the voltage drop down.
 
#5 ·
I figure that the fewer "splices" that you have, the less chance that this will cause a problem. When I cap a 12/2 wire to another 12/2 wire, I know what I have.

If this has to go through a receptacle and a plug, I am guessing at what I have.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Bender said:
.......Can I buy a roll of 250 ft UF-b romex and put plugs on it, basically making a 250 extension cord? ......
Click to expand...
No.

Of course, you'll ignore this answer because you'll just ignore the Code reference that prohibits it.

As long as it works, right?
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
480sparky said:
No.

Of course, you'll ignore this answer because you'll just ignore the Code reference that prohibits it.
Click to expand...
No, not necessarily.
I'm wanting to do this proper. It was just a thought/question. If its against the rules I'm good with that (but would like to know why? just for curiosities sake)

So then, if I run 10/2 on a new 30 amp breaker can I end it with a exterior rated 4plex?
 
#11 ·
UF in a conduit above ground then by itself to the barn, up into conduit and and outlet on the wall.

Will that work?
 
#12 ·
Temporary runs of Romex used to be std practice for construction sites not all that long ago. I've done more than a few myself, before it became frowned upon. I preferred to keep mine above ground, preferably at a ht that can't be snagged by anything that moves. Trees or poles where used as needed. They were always good untill permanent power could be run. Never had any issues myself, but you need to keep in mind it's just a temporary fix.
Joe
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well, this is crossing my comfort zone. The 2 wires are 200A to the house, the white ones are 100A to my shop and then a 20A to the GFCI. I can't disconnect this without the POCO can I?

Also, why does the ground and common go to the same bar? I thought they were supposed to be separate?
 

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#14 ·
Might as well stop right there grasshopper.

Ya, you need POCO to pull the meter and you would have to put in a subpanel

Ground and neutral are the same thing at the main box. You separate them after that. The ground is a non current conductor while the neutral is a current carrying conductor.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Leo G said:
Might as well stop right there grasshopper.

Ya, you need POCO to pull the meter and you would have to put in a subpanel

Ground and neutral are the same thing at the main box. You separate them after that. The ground is a non current conductor while the neutral is a current carrying conductor.
Click to expand...
Shoot. Thats what I thought.

480, whats wrong with a single pole 30A breaker?
 
#17 ·
That's what I said.
 
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