back caulking stain trim

Alkyd · Dec 20, 2006

I have a question I would like to get your opinion on? I have a kitchen that has pre finished stained trim. It is a light golden oak color. On a few walls there is a crack between the baseboard and the walls? What do you guys do in this case? Do you tape the base, caulk and then paint the walls? Do you do nothing? Do you use a clear caulk? Do you use a tinted caulk? Thanks

AAPaint · Dec 20, 2006

Stained trim is always fully masked during painting. Especially if it's in good shape and not being touched. If we are sanding and re-coating it, we would still want it masked because sprinkles just make more work in the long run.

ProWallGuy · Dec 20, 2006

No, I don't caulk in stained trim. If I am asked to (and I can't ever remember that happening), I could do it for an extra charge.

Joewho · Dec 20, 2006

Since it's already been caulked, and it's cracking, I would look for places to add some trim nails. Then I would get a bucket of water and a rag. Caulk again, if necessary, and remove the caulk from the trim with the wet rag.

Let it dry, tape, paint.

4thGeneration · Dec 20, 2006

Just the way I do things.

Alkyd said:
I have a question I would like to get your opinion on? I have a kitchen that has pre finished stained trim. It is a light golden oak color. On a few walls there is a crack between the baseboard and the walls? What do you guys do in this case? Do you tape the base, caulk and then paint the walls? Do you do nothing? Do you use a clear caulk? Do you use a tinted caulk? Thanks

Three options

Option one: Paint the walls to the finished stage and then find a caulk the same color as the stain and put a bead to the wall.

Option two: Paint the walls to the finished stage and then you can caulk the trim to the walls the same color of the walls (if it is a color from your paint store that carries the same color)

Option three: Do it like I was trained by the master. Free hand it without the tape and you better pray to God you do not make it look like the gobi desert or you are fired faster than you can start explaining.

I am not very good at taping laser lines because I was not allowed to. I was trained with a four inch straight edge brush as punishment for mentioning I wanted to become a painter by my Grandpa. Those were the days. Grandpa is getting old, but man was he fiesty as well as the best painter I ever was around. They say he was calm compared to his Dad. I was a baby when Great Grandpa died, but maybe that was easier on me If anyone cares to hear some horror stories let me know. It will flip your brain.

axnjoe · Dec 20, 2006

Option #4
If the trim is straight, install the trim in the straight position exposing a gap at the wall. Float out the gap w/ mud to where the wall should be. We do a lot of this in remodels and it really make the jobs look better.

Option #5 Bigger the blob, the better the job.

simmons · Dec 20, 2006

We run into this alot. And not just stained trim but white trim against dark colors. The first thing we look at is how wide the profile is at the top of the base. If it's only a 1/16th or less we'll try to paint freehand.But the trend we see is big moulding! The fastest way usually doesn't do justice to 6 or 8 inch base. If we need to mask we fine line the top with 6inch paper, run a light bead of caulk (pull it tight as possible) and roll the walls. We have a clean line and the base is protected from bumps and splatters. Might add we have gotten several jobs from contractors building their own house because they've seen our detail work .

Joewho · Dec 21, 2006

[
Option three: Do it like I was trained by the master. Free hand it without the tape and you better pray to God you do not make it look like the gobi desert or you are fired faster than you can start explaining.

quote]

I was also trained to paint the line first, then tape the trim before rolling. If it pays, I do it. If not, I don't.

back caulking stain trim

Alkyd

AAPaint

ProWallGuy

Joewho

4thGeneration

axnjoe

simmons

Joewho

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