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#21 ·
dlarrivee said:
Good to know.

Thanks again for all your help Joe, I think I should be able to get by on my own w/ that calculator and a square now.

You said you usually just use a circular saw for framing?

Do you use a miter at all?

Do the sheathers usually use a table saw to cut OSB down to size?
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I use a miter saw for exterior trim. Never framing.

Sheathers use a circular saw. They don't even know what a table saw is.:laughing: :laughing:

Sheathing gets ripping with a saw. I only use a table saw for trim also. No framing
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Yeesh!

I thought they'd use a table saw, I'm not sure how good I'd be at ripping a sheet of OSB and keeping a straight line with a circular saw...:blink:

Do you usually nail all your 2 by framing?

And then the sheathers drill the OSB on?
 
#23 ·
dlarrivee said:
Yeesh!

I thought they'd use a table saw, I'm not sure how good I'd be at ripping a sheet of OSB and keeping a straight line with a circular saw...:blink:

Do you usually nail all your 2 by framing?

And then the sheathers drill the OSB on?
Click to expand...
I know my saw like the back of my hand and can cut straight. It's only sheathing and it doesn't have to be perfect as if you were using plywood for a soffit.

I don't use osb, I use plywood.

I nail all framing.

We nail all sheathing.

What do you mean by drilling sheathing on?
 
#28 ·
A 1/16" of a inch oh my. The horror of a 1/4". Dude this isn't airplanes. These are execeptable tolerance's. As wood isn't perfect from the mill to begin with. Even with using trusses and they use jigs I haven't seen them perfect either. a craftsman excepts these "issues" in the field and use's best judgement on how to execute the right path. An with a 1/4" being the most extreme of out of spec. It isn't enough to make me not sleep at night.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I don't mean to be rude, but I don't really care what your opinion is when it comes to tolerances...

I wanted to find out how to calculate things properly, when you're doing math you have to be exact or there's really no point.

I'm sure when you're actually framing something, 1/4" wont make a difference...

I'm assuming by 'execeptable' you meant acceptable (and by excepts you mean accepts)? It seems 1/4" tolerances aren't the only thing your'e not losing sleep over.
 
#30 ·
dlarrivee said:
I don't mean to be rude, but I don't really care what your opinion is when it comes to tolerances...

I wanted to find out how to calculate things properly, when you're doing math you have to be exact or there's really no point.

I'm sure when you're actually framing something, 1/4" wont make a difference...

I'm assuming by 'execeptable' you meant acceptable (and by excepts you mean accepts)? It seems 1/4" tolerances aren't the only thing your'e not losing sleep over.
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Actually accept is the word I meant to use. Calculating the roof is part of framing it. I have been framing for 12 years and have put up alot of roofs. If you have ever read the Swanson blue book you will know that even they don't worry about minimal fractions. So I really don't care if you think you are calculating a roof to exact numbers.

You know what you're problem is you are too anal and too technical. Which make's you technically anal.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
In life there are people who pay attention to details, and people who don't.

You and I can agree to disagree.

How many roofs do you actually frame these days? You probably just use prefab trusses now mostly right?

I'm not sure why you chimed in here if you had nothing positive to add to the discussion...
 
#32 · (Edited)
dlarrivee said:
In life there are people who pay attention to details, and people who don't.

You and I can agree to disagree.

How many roofs do you actually frame these days? You probably just use prefab trusses now mostly right?

I'm not sure why you chimed in here if you had nothing positive to add to the discussion...
Click to expand...
You obviously don't pay attention to details. I have framed more roof than I care to remember. How ever the last few roof's I framed were a 14/12 gable roof with non text book tiebacks, a multi rise roof with hips and true valley's. I also cut in a simple hip roof that tied back into a octaganal roof which was also a non text book tie back.
So before you get into you pay attention to details you better pay attention to some one who has been there and done that. And buy a frickin' speed square and read the book. Also take a look in the pics to at the hood fan frame I did. that is what is called tutored hip action. So you want to get anal with me on what I know then I will get you every time.
Want to talk about building radius wall's wood or concrete? How about bridge work? Curbs and sidewalks?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I looked around a little and it seems you just like to stir the pot, "Why Do Framer's Get No Respect on this Site?" I have plenty of respect for all trades people who do quality work. It's people like you who go around giving people a hard time who don't deserve my respect.
 
#34 · (Edited)
dlarrivee said:
I looked around a little and it seems you just like to stir the pot, "Why Do Framer's Get No Respect on this Site?" I have plenty of respect for all trades people who do quality work. It's people like you who go around giving people a hard time who don't deserve my respect.
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In my first post I wasn't giving you a hard time. Obviously you took it as one. So you really are anal retentive. To calculate a roof without a ridge board is that same as how you figure one out with one. You do the math and either subtract for the rigde or you don't. You also have to figure in the height of your seat cut to the total height of your roof. Is that what you wanted answered
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
Picked up a book called Roof Framing by Marshall Gross. Has absolutely everything in it except for one thing...

He explains that in europe they measure slope in degrees, instead of 8 in 12 for instance. To me this makes perfect sense except for the fact that he only shows you how to use an imperial rafter square for laying out rafters using ratio with a unit run of 12 inches. Another book I have that explains the Canadian Building Code in a sort of guide form shows that here, we (apparently) use ratios but they are not unit specific and they aren't with a standard run of 12 inches. So say for instance a 45 degree pitch roof would be a ratio of 1:1 not 12 in 12, and a 3 in 12 would be 1:4. So basically what I'm wondering is what sort of tool they use to mark the rafter instead of a rafter square? (The only rafter squares I've seen have all imperial measurements and have silly regurlar rafter tables)

Edit: I believe I figured it out, there is a swanson speed square that is all metric... I suppose there's probably metric rafter squares too, but even here in Canada the most tools are in imperial. I suppose you can use some basic trig to figure out rise and run for a specific pitch that is given in degrees (secant for the rafter even), I just wondered if anyone might know exactly how it would be done in europe?
 
#36 ·
I'll "chime" in myself, it does sound like you have no idea what your doing, for a "carpenter" to not know what a freekin construction master is and everything else I read here, you should prolly listen to justa framer, that's what he does, frame. Sounds like you would rather talk about it.......We had a house we built once and the "ridge" was and inch longer than the bottom, (top of wall) not a big deal really on a shingled roof, but we wanted to fix it. Instead of cutting the ridge, we cut a notch in the OSB, 1 1/2" X 11 1/4" (for example on each end) then beat the rafter in a 1/2". Now the Ridge is flush with the outside of the OSB, follow me? For the life of the dude who worked with us he COULD NOT understand how the ridge was any shorter if we didn't cut it. You remind me of that guy.
 
#37 ·
dlarrivee said:
I suppose you can use some basic trig to figure out rise and run for a specific pitch that is given in degrees (secant for the rafter even),
Click to expand...

All you need to do if you're given a pitch in degrees is press the Tangent button on a calculator and multiply it by 12. That will tell you what the pitch is in rise per foot run.

Uisng a Construction Master Trig.

45 [Tan] Retrurns - 1

1x12 = 12 (12/12 is the pitch)


33.69 [Tan] Returns - .666665

.666665 x 12 = 7.99998 or 8 (8/12 is the pitch)

Or you can do this.

45 [Pitch] [Pitch] Returns – 12

33.69 [Pitch] [Pitch] Returns - 8
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
First of all. I never said I was a carpenter... Second of all I don't want to know how to do the trig, I know how to do the trig. I wanted to know what sort of tool they use in europe for laying out rafters, or if they use speed squares and rafter squares that are all in metric?

vtgaetano, it sounds like you might want to do some reading and maybe double check your math if you can't get the length of your ridge correct. It's funny how you're insulting me about not knowing about a calculator, but you're work was off by an inch.

Thanks Joe for the explaination, but I wasn't trying to focus on that part. I have a TI-30X IIS calculator and I wont be purchasing a construction master. The book I have explains how to do everything using basic trig, instead of using the proprietary buttons on the construction master. If you explain something to someone using basic trig on any scientific calculator, then they don't need to buy the special calculator.

"what is the formula if you know the roof pitch and want to convert to degree of pitch???
thanks"

The inverse tangent of the rise, divided by the run.
 
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