I just got a drawing the other day and the client wants a couple 4' high walls made. The problem is that one end is unsupported. What is the best way to frame this out of Steel stud. I have never framed anything like this
Short walls with steel stud
cairnstone
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I just got a drawing the other day and the client wants a couple 4' high walls made. The problem is that one end is unsupported. What is the best way to frame this out of Steel stud. I have never framed anything like this
You can put 1/2 ply under the 5/8 sheetrock to help stiffen up the wall . I have seen some carpenters frame the wall then sheet it then fill half way with concrete or spray foam and let it set up a while and then reapply the top plate.Thats a little extreme for me though,but it all depends on the application.
Yep.
Add some cross bracing to that and you're good to go.:thumbsup:
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The floor is concrete and the walls are an L
Plywood on the wall faces and an "L" bracket lagged to the floor and the wall.
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Could you just build that part of the wall with wood or are steel studs required
1/4'' Tapcon 2x4 bottom plate. (or 2-1/2'' Hilti pins) Screws installed parallel(across from each other)1/2'' in from edge. Then add another 2x4 with 3'' screws. Cut tabs on steel studs, plumb and screw. Adding diag. brace helps to keep end from rocking.
Hang board paper edge down. Screw bottom first 6''o.c. Keeping plumb as you screw. Hit both 2x4's.
Run a good bead of glue (prior to drywall) on floor/bottom plate to add strength. For overkill I'll run a bead of glue on the outside edge of drywall on the floor.
This is foolproof and not that complicated if done this way.
Hang board paper edge down. Screw bottom first 6''o.c. Keeping plumb as you screw. Hit both 2x4's.
Run a good bead of glue (prior to drywall) on floor/bottom plate to add strength. For overkill I'll run a bead of glue on the outside edge of drywall on the floor.
This is foolproof and not that complicated if done this way.
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4x4 fence posts at corners and ends
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A drywall supply house will have a knee wall brace.It is a 't' shaped metal bracket that you ancor to the floor and it runs about 2' up the stud and you screw it to the end stud.
Also glue your bottom track and put your concrete ancors across from each other about 12" apart.Than glue your drywall and screw the heck out of it.And helps if you can use a heavy guage track and screw your studs on both sides.
Also glue your bottom track and put your concrete ancors across from each other about 12" apart.Than glue your drywall and screw the heck out of it.And helps if you can use a heavy guage track and screw your studs on both sides.
In the past i was on a job that we built 12' high x12' long freestanding walls out of 16 ga 3 5/8 metal studs.
No L in the wall, just straight.
The track was shot down like normal but then we added 2 brackets that were 3 1/2 angle iorn with a flange welded to the bottom. Used expansion bolts in concrete and screwd to studs in the wall..
Then slapped 5/8 over it all..
Thats what the plans called for.
And if that wasnt enough this wall was getting a 400lb clothing display wall on it.
A day after the display was up we were ordered to take the thing down.
It was "unsafe"... No kidding.. we could of just threw some kickers up to the decking but thst wouldnt fly with the designers.
So to answer your question..
The method we used would work for your application...
No L in the wall, just straight.
The track was shot down like normal but then we added 2 brackets that were 3 1/2 angle iorn with a flange welded to the bottom. Used expansion bolts in concrete and screwd to studs in the wall..
Then slapped 5/8 over it all..
Thats what the plans called for.
And if that wasnt enough this wall was getting a 400lb clothing display wall on it.
A day after the display was up we were ordered to take the thing down.
It was "unsafe"... No kidding.. we could of just threw some kickers up to the decking but thst wouldnt fly with the designers.
So to answer your question..
The method we used would work for your application...
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believe it or not how you screw the drywall will also help stiffen it up a lot
if you put a screw in the plate at the bottom below the stud then put another one like a inch and a half up on the stud (this ties it in better than normal screwing believe me it helps ) also when you cap the end of the wall do the same thing screw right in the bottom plate each side then an inch or so on the stud then about 6 inches apart up the stud
also shoot some screws in the plate between the studs
this is not a framing solution but will help if the wall is a little shaky try it you will be surprised how a couple well placed screws makes all the difference :thumbsup:
So you have done some steel framing me-boy ........<what he said :thumbsup:
I have built a few short and strange walls in my day!
stepping stone Museum in Norwalk
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I've sunk 2.5" rigid conduit with hydraulic cement for an 8' wall under a 10' ceiling. no L just straight and it worked like a charm.
As to the "L", it would depend on the length of each leg. If they're both 10' long I'd sink a pipe. If they're both 4' then I'd plywood.
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You get a 2x2 metal post with a 6in flange 3 anchor bolts two sides so it fits in the wall bolt down directly to floor 36 in high screw to stud using framing screws and make sure it is directly on the concrete do not have it on the trackI've been framing for several years we do it all the time and it works really well
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weve been doing lots of these lately. the plans have been calling for steel posts at the end of the wall.
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