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Cutting out electrical boxes

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gman

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am installing 1x8 3/4" Pine T&G on walls and ceiling , wanting to know the best way to cutout electrical boxes. I thought about using Zip drill bit/
Does anybody have a better idea or tricks


Thanks
 
#3 ·
For switchboxes and the like on walls and ceilings, I'd use a jig saw like Big Dave.

But for outlet boxes in baseboard, I would have the electrician run his wires long, and do all the cutouts with a router and template.

It is much, much faster and better for everybody.

Regards,
Jimc
 
#4 ·
I just ran some bead board in a house, and had to cut out the boxes. It was MDF, and my Roto Zip with a tracing/plunge blade worked like a charm. It got dull fast, and I dont think it would work very good on real woods, but it might.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Yeah, all the above or get fancy and make them works of art using a jig and a plunge router, or do em quick and dirty with a skill saw, plunging the blade and knocking out the corners with a chisel.
 
#6 ·
The zip bits are too slow and don't last. Use a jig saw with a quality blade. If you have never used them, treat yourself to some Bosch blades, which are now available with the universal shanks. They will renew your faith in using a jigsaw.
 
#7 ·
I think I might be thinking about a different situation than ya'll... but when I need to cut a cabinet back, paneling or trim around an electrical outlet, the situation usually entails unscrewing the outlet from the box... pulling it through the panel, and screwing it back onto the panel.

Trick I use is two overlapping cuts with a 2" hole saw. Super fast... done in about 8 seconds. The plug pulls through easy and it leaves plenty of meat to screw the 'tabs' back onto.
 
#9 ·
MD, I had a discussion with an Electrician about this problem once. He told me that he wouldnt screw the outlet to the bead board, but instead that the holes for the screws needed to be exposed. Is that "code" or just what he wanted?
 
#10 ·
mdshunk said:
I'm sure that trick is fast and easy, but it creates at least 3 code violations. 110.3(B), 314.20, and 314.25(B)
Click to expand...
Hmmm...

That's the way I was taught... and the way everybody I've ever seen do it... assuming working with existing electrical.

Didn't learn anything was wrong with it prepping for my C-6 exam... I'll hafta look into that.

Question though. If you're paneling over existing electrical... do you cut out for the plate and inset it then? Or do you move the box out and cut around it? Or... use an extension?

Thanks for the tip... I'll definitely look into that.
 
#11 ·
King of Crown said:
MD, I had a discussion with an Electrician about this problem once. He told me that he wouldnt screw the outlet to the bead board, but instead that the holes for the screws needed to be exposed. Is that "code" or just what he wanted?
Click to expand...
Wondering that too.

Using the hole saw like I do exposes the holes/screws to attach the outlet like it's "supposed" to be. Just don't usually use them again 'cause they're either too short, or missing after pulling the fixture. Plus... it's easier to just throw some hinge screws into the 'tabs'.
 
#13 ·
Use the RotoZip blue. I never have used the ones for drywall. The blues will get you about 40" in 1/4-3/8" fiberglass and last forever in drywall.
 
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#14 ·
I use a rotozip with wood cutting bits.....thats all I use for cutting openings in the back of cabinets, it takes 15 seconds for me to cut an opening in 3/4" particle board for an adjustable electrical box.

Jigsaws take too long IMO........its all personal preferance though.
 
#15 ·
I use my jigsaw. Only use my rotozip on drywall, I break way too many bits on anything else.
I used to just pull the outlet through my 1/4'' cabinet back and re-install, never got called on it and did'nt think there was a problem. Now I do know. I use extension boxes now. I believe code allows for a 1/4'' of noncombustable material between box and plate, no allowances for combustable materials.
So, am I correct or just blowin smoke?

Steve Unkie.
 
#16 ·
Rotary saws definitely have a learning curve and (after 8 yrs.) I'm still learning. One of the best things is speed control, 30K RPM is just too fast for many applications. The bits just load, overheat and snap. You can also get a 1/4" collet but I wouldn't recommend going over a 1/4" bit, the machine is just too light.
 
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#20 ·
Speaking of sawzalls, I had a new guy the other day grab a super sawzall to trim some subfloor hanging out in the way of our new deck ledger. The kid stuffed the entire 10" blade inside the wall and in about 5 seconds (of course right when I wasn't watching) he cut through a water supply, a 2" drain and the bath electrical.:eek:

Around here sawzall is a temporarily bad word.:laughing:

He's the broom boy/gopher for a little while.:w00t:

Wack
 
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