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Jyl

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Looking at a project that the paint is peeling in sheets on cedar shingles. Coastal community, limited venting, house was on the market for a long time, not sure of vapor barrier, or if painted to sell (could've been wet when applied). So far I have done a gentel wash with Jomax and Bleach for mold with mild rinse pressure as I would have looked like Macy Day Parade and plates of paint everywhere to pick up. Once I got into the wash I knew something was up.

How does one actually know the real root of the problem? So I prep, paint and next year house does the the same thing, how do I protect myself from, "oh u didn't do you job". Have walk around with homeowner in the morning to discuss. One of the things she did say as was that the inspection report did point out a lot of the issues I have addressed. This is a summer residence she purchase less then a year ago.

Not knowing the history of the house, previous product, conditions under which it was painted before.......just concerned. Any input is useful, that you.
 
The problem is paint on shingles. You flat out do not paint cedar shingles. Solid hide stain only.

The water is coming from driven rain that gets through the sides of the shingles and wicked onto the back. It has only one place to go.

Out.
 
The problem is paint on shingles. You flat out do not paint cedar shingles. Solid hide stain only.

The water is coming from driven rain that gets through the sides of the shingles and wicked onto the back. It has only one place to go.

Out.
got a question on the same lines.
we are to install cedar siding on the side of a house . they want the finish prodcut to be painted
manufacturer says we need to prime or seal the back of the siding before we install it

i`m picturing laying out 3500.ft. of this siding all over the yard , and trying to brush or spray sealer or primer on it . it seems like it s gonna be difficult to control it all
if it rains it going to be a problem
it its sunny , will this stuff start to warp or curl( its 1/2 thick on the fat end , and tapers to zero in 8 inches)
then we have to stack all this again in a garage till we need it
or is it best to seal only the amount we can do in a day or 2 , at a time?

also whats the best product to use to seal the back?
 
got a question on the same lines.
we are to install cedar siding on the side of a house . they want the finish prodcut to be painted
manufacturer says we need to prime or seal the back of the siding before we install it

i`m picturing laying out 3500.ft. of this siding all over the yard , and trying to brush or spray sealer or primer on it . it seems like it s gonna be difficult to control it all
if it rains it going to be a problem
it its sunny , will this stuff start to warp or curl( its 1/2 thick on the fat end , and tapers to zero in 8 inches)
then we have to stack all this again in a garage till we need it
or is it best to seal only the amount we can do in a day or 2 , at a time?

also whats the best product to use to seal the back?
We always get cedar siding preprimed from the supplier. Just spot prime any cuts as you go.
 
Hmmmm been painting cedar shingles for over 30 yrs:whistling Even offer a written warranty. Like anything in life theres a ritgt way and a wrong way and allot depends on situation.

One thing I can tell you 90 % of painters just spray and go and bid low there's no thought process or any actual painting experience. I see it everyday failing paint jobs due to this.

It's better to use a solid stain in a given situation but you can paint but like I said you must access the problem before rendering a solution. :thumbsup:
 
THINKPAINTING said:
Hmmmm been painting cedar shingles for over 30 yrs:whistling
That's what the last guy said to me. And he was one of the best painters I have ever met. He just does not understand that you don't paint shingles. That's why the house he painted is peeling. Hate to say I told you so bud. I tried to tell you.

It's not the same application as horizontal siding. It's a vertical grain. Water WILL get into the shingles. It needs to be able to breathe. Paint restricts this movement and peels. I give it 2 years.

There is zero reason to pick paint over stain when finishing shingles. They will outlast all of us if left untreated. If you want color...stain.

Cedar breather is not much better either. The last home we just worked on had cedar breather and it was the worst cupping I have ever seen. These were top of the line Maibec shingles.
 
I understand and learned from my father and grandfather before me. I dont know about your last guy Im speaking for me. Its done here often with success my own home is cedar painted shingles.

I know all about wood needing to breath we have used wedge vents with great success in certain situations along with other methods. As for outlasting if they are red cedar yes but not white cedar here that is all that is used now mostly.

I understand what you are saying and I dont disagree and having a choice I would not choose paint today on new cedar but letting them weather is not always a good option depending on situation.

Back in the day we have a US forestry rep speak at our local PDCA chapter gave us great understanding of wood species how they react to expansion, contraction etc. The types of cedar how young tree's react being cut planed and then used in new construction. How a house is insulated makes a difference etc.

We always research and look for the best method of coatings for all our work. I have been surrounded by old timers with a ton of painting knowledge my whole life.
 
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