Have any of you all found a good and fast tool to remove the outside window stops without messing them up and making a big mess??
Cutting off outside window stop??
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windowbarn
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Have any of you all found a good and fast tool to remove the outside window stops without messing them up and making a big mess??
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Agreed.
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We are in Wellman, IA which is in the Eastern part of the state. What kind of blade do you use with that multitool?? Not sure what you all mean by pulling them? Generally on a replacement window you cant just pull them off since they go in behind the outside casing. We don't always cap the window either so we cant mess the stop up any.
The main reason we are looking into this is, complying with the lead laws should be easier since the window would be replaced from the outside and we would not have to do the cleaning verification documentation etc. So far we have been replacing our windows from the inside.
The main reason we are looking into this is, complying with the lead laws should be easier since the window would be replaced from the outside and we would not have to do the cleaning verification documentation etc. So far we have been replacing our windows from the inside.
Maybe it's a terminology thing, or the older windows in your area are constructed a bit differently from around here.
In the upper illustration, "parting strip" is what I think of when you mention outside stops. That's usually pretty easy to remove with a chisel to start, and a pair of pliers to pull.
How can you not mess the stop up any if you want to saw it off?
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Actually I see what you are talking about, yes we do pull those off. I am talking about the stop on the very outside that is on the inside of the casing. The windows would go right up against this stop and in order to install from the outside that stop needs to be cut flush.
That's a detail I don't recall ever encountering, but since it's in that drawing, I guess they do exist. :laughing:
I still don't get the picture, though. When I install a replacement window, it fits between the inside stop and the "parting strip". It wouldn't ever extend as far as that outer piece.
But getting back to the original question, I'd probably do most of the cutting with a circular saw. You'd be there all day with a Multimaster.
Correction: I was looking/thinking wrong. Been a while since I did any windows.
The parting strip gets removed, and that allows me to insert the window from outside. Then I add my own stops to hold it in. Still, never had to deal with what that pic shows.
The parting strip gets removed, and that allows me to insert the window from outside. Then I add my own stops to hold it in. Still, never had to deal with what that pic shows.
It's referred to as a blind stop around here & is normally overlaid with the brickmold or other exterior trim. It runs behind the trim & is often a PITA to remove.
We don't mess with it, as it provides weather protection around the opening. I've seen too many replacement window installations where the blind stop is hacked away, an insert is installed from the outside, & fiberglass is stuffed around the window in an effort to stop drafts. It doesn't work. Air & moisture can & often do make their way around the window & customers wonder why their new windows are drafty or leaky.
Leaving the blind stop intact provides a point to seal the insert window to, in turn minimizing air & moisture intrusion. It also provides a dam for your low expanding foam around the perimeter to bump against, keeping it from making its way to the exterior.
We don't mess with it, as it provides weather protection around the opening. I've seen too many replacement window installations where the blind stop is hacked away, an insert is installed from the outside, & fiberglass is stuffed around the window in an effort to stop drafts. It doesn't work. Air & moisture can & often do make their way around the window & customers wonder why their new windows are drafty or leaky.
Leaving the blind stop intact provides a point to seal the insert window to, in turn minimizing air & moisture intrusion. It also provides a dam for your low expanding foam around the perimeter to bump against, keeping it from making its way to the exterior.
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You're right GRB.... we see it run behind the brickmold here sometimes as well. When that happens, we score it several times with a knife, and then snap it off. We then set the window, foam with OSI-TEQ low expansion foam and then cap the brickmold and into the receiver channel on the window and caulk everything in.
To the OP.... if you're got a stop that goes behind the brickmold and you're not going to cap the exterior with coil, you could still score and snap the out stop off, set your window and foam it in, then install new cove, shoe or quarter round to create new out stops all the way around.
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Score and then Chisel works for us.
Then a full metal cap to finish it off.
Then a full metal cap to finish it off.
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some split off easily others the grain direction runs more ''quarter sawn''and goes under the casing making splitting sometimes very difficult
ive pulled the outside casing off, pull the blind stop then insulate around the frame install the insert then reinstall the stop and trim
that being said there are old window types where the blind stop extends past the outside of the casing and is nailed to the framing and the sheathing butts to it and the siding covers it
i don't think the outside stop is always necessary for weather purposes,you can detail those problems away imo,but i do like to have them with casement or very large units,more for strength then weatherizing
ive pulled the outside casing off, pull the blind stop then insulate around the frame install the insert then reinstall the stop and trim
that being said there are old window types where the blind stop extends past the outside of the casing and is nailed to the framing and the sheathing butts to it and the siding covers it
i don't think the outside stop is always necessary for weather purposes,you can detail those problems away imo,but i do like to have them with casement or very large units,more for strength then weatherizing
If I understand the RRP rules right even doing the window replacement from the outside does not do away with the cleaning verifiction and documentation.
When I did inserts , complete replacements now, thats a whole different subject, I would use a skil saw to cut the stop then just snap it off. Fast and clean.
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Jim[blue] has a mod to a circular saw that i bet would work great for this,especially if done on a 61/2''cordless
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I forgot to add that I bought a roto-zip saw to do flush cuts. I haven't used it for a window yet, but I have a job coming up that I might try it out to score the stops.
And for RRP, you have to tape the interior of the windows and put down plastic on the exterior. You still have to clean and verify the interior when you are done.
And for RRP, you have to tape the interior of the windows and put down plastic on the exterior. You still have to clean and verify the interior when you are done.
Sometimes I have just cut the top stop off then take the replacement slide it behind the stop on the left or right side push it in as far as if will go. Then push the other side in and center it that is of course if you have the room. I do think that cutting it out sometimes makes it harder to seal up correctly if its not being wrapped in metal. As far as the Lead remediation goes you have to plastic of the window from the inside. Remove existing window hepa vac the opening install new window. Take down plastic inside and hepa vac the surrounding area. It takes just as long if not longer to do all the plastic and the vacuuming then it does to actually install the window.
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I would agree with this method being the easiest, and most popular of our methods.
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Sam i believe the reason guys are pulling the outside stops is to get the old sash out,if your going to leave the sides in why pull the top stop?..i don't think i'm understanding
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