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Old cracked plaster ceiling, skim coated now peeling

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maineuropa

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Been in a neat 1850's farmhouse here in Maine for 6 years now, major repairs, remodeling etc. One of the few area farmhouses that survived the '47 fire. Over the last 5 years I have watched the ceilings slowly crack and peel. I am pretty sure the ceilings were skim coated with sheetrock mud at some point. I am equally sure that the only lasting repair will be to screw up a 1/2 "sheetrock ceiling over the old plaster and lathe with 1 5/8" screws since I have little faith that the cracks and peels that I have painstakingly cleaned up and reskimmed won't last a year, a week. Right? Even if I durabond the skim peels(which I suspect might be calcite related), there will be new peeling later where I haven't cleaned out old peeling yet.
The only other aspect to this I am thinking would be to tear down all the old plaster and lathe before hanging the new sheetrock, probably putting up 5/8" at that point? Any thoughts on this?
(To be honest I cleaned up the peels and cracks on the ceiling because it's in our bedroom and I would wait until spring to major remodel the room).
 
#2 ·
maineuropa said:
Been in a neat 1850's farmhouse here in Maine for 6 years now, major repairs, remodeling etc. One of the few area farmhouses that survived the '47 fire. Over the last 5 years I have watched the ceilings slowly crack and peel. I am pretty sure the ceilings were skim coated with sheetrock mud at some point. I am equally sure that the only lasting repair will be to screw up a 1/2 "sheetrock ceiling over the old plaster and lathe with 1 5/8" screws since I have little faith that the cracks and peels that I have painstakingly cleaned up and reskimmed won't last a year, a week. Right? Even if I durabond the skim peels(which I suspect might be calcite related), there will be new peeling later where I haven't cleaned out old peeling yet.
The only other aspect to this I am thinking would be to tear down all the old plaster and lathe before hanging the new sheetrock, probably putting up 5/8" at that point? Any thoughts on this?
(To be honest I cleaned up the peels and cracks on the ceiling because it's in our bedroom and I would wait until spring to major remodel the room).
Click to expand...
Yes taking down the plaster is best option,gives you the chance to fix any bad wiring/plumbingetc.etc. and the install of new rock(after a thorough demo) will be easier and probably cost less than repairing or going over existing. I do drywall and would charge quite a bit more to overlay the old,plus it changes all your cased openings,trim reveals electrical outlets,etc. etc. Tear it out and do it right or you will always wished you did.
 
#3 ·
Encapsulating with sheetrock sounds good, longer screws into the CJ though.
The stuff that falls out of the attic when you pull the plaster down is what divorce is made of.
(unless you can go away and sub it out)
 
#4 ·
Thing i worry about with going over with 1/2" is the added weight to the probably already undersized structure. If the plaster is that old who knows if it already isnt ready to come down? I'd tear it out and do as stated above update any wiring and plumbing which is probably mouse chewed knob and tube. If you decide to go the drywall over route your gonna need 2" screws minimum and make sure to hit centers.
 
#5 ·
Yes. That can be a messy couple days but its not like doing it the other way (overlay) is much better,still gonna be a mess. Leaving up ceiling is a good idea and overlay it but gut the walls, or plan on redoing trims,some doors.elec. boxes etc.
 
#6 ·
jkfox624 said:
Thing i worry about with going over with 1/2" is the added weight to the probably already undersized structure. If the plaster is that old who knows if it already isnt ready to come down? I'd tear it out and do as stated above update any wiring and plumbing which is probably mouse chewed knob and tube. If you decide to go the drywall over route your gonna need 2" screws minimum and make sure to hit centers.
Click to expand...
In a house that old I'll hardly worry that the framing is undersized. That probably is post & beam construction.
 
#7 ·
Try to fight the desire to take the easy, less messy, road and drywall over anything. It's always better to remove the initial wall finish than to cover it with drywall. It's just wrong.

Also, it provides you the opportunity to correct any wrongs that may be causing the cracking.

When I have a big demo and dw install, it helps me to break the job down in smaller pieces rather than look at the job as a whole: all of this work and mess, etc.

Depending on the size of the room, get a dumpster. Have the job well planned and thought-out before you even start the smallest part of the demo.

Try to get the wife involved if possible: less bitchin' cause she's tired too.;)
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
The only reason I have been scraping out the peels etc is that the ceiling plaster has not cracked...just the skim coat/paint layer. Would love to save the plaster ceiling, but I would still have the same problem(s).
 
#11 ·
maineuropa said:
The only reason I have been scraping out the peels etc is that the ceiling plaster has not cracked...just the skim coat/paint layer. Would love to save the plaster ceiling, but I would still have the same problem(s).
Click to expand...

I would never rock over a perfectly good plaster job. Do you know how much work went into that plaster ceiling? Don't rock over it.
 
#12 ·
sounds like it isnt the best plaster job? or is it? When repairing plaster walls in past we would use hotmud and mesh or paper tape. They make a mesh wallcovering to cover entire surface and does prevent future crack but the old plaster walls stink after a while (like catpiss) especiallt when puttinf wet mud on them. Gut it
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Hence my post(which upon reflection probably needed better focus)..I am wondering what if anything might help keep this from peeling more in the future since I have only opened up the bad peels and peel cracks..but if the entire ceiling was skimmed, I guess more peeling will be inevitable. Would an oil based primer help ? Right now I am wondering if it is worth painting at all...except we're only talking $25 of paint and a hour's work...
 
#18 ·
jkfox624 said:
Youve never been to my neck of the woods then. I find a hell of alot more sagged out oversized floor and ceiling joists than i do good ones.
Click to expand...
Can't see your location on my Android, so perhaps not. However, I live in the northeast in an area that is 90% older homes, many of which were built 1800-1930's, and as I already stated, I RARELY see it......
 
#20 ·
maineuropa said:
Been in a neat 1850's farmhouse here in Maine for 6 years now, major repairs, remodeling etc. One of the few area farmhouses that survived the '47 fire. Over the last 5 years I have watched the ceilings slowly crack and peel. I am pretty sure the ceilings were skim coated with sheetrock mud at some point. I am equally sure that the only lasting repair will be to screw up a 1/2 "sheetrock ceiling over the old plaster and lathe with 1 5/8" screws since I have little faith that the cracks and peels that I have painstakingly cleaned up and reskimmed won't last a year, a week. Right? Even if I durabond the skim peels(which I suspect might be calcite related), there will be new peeling later where I haven't cleaned out old peeling yet.
The only other aspect to this I am thinking would be to tear down all the old plaster and lathe before hanging the new sheetrock, probably putting up 5/8" at that point? Any thoughts on this?
(To be honest I cleaned up the peels and cracks on the ceiling because it's in our bedroom and I would wait until spring to major remodel the room).
Click to expand...
I have an old Victorian so I can feel your pain. Some of the rooms in my house I've gone over the plaster, and others I ripped it all out. It's a lot of work, but the added benefit of replacing old pluming and wire is worth it.
 
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