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ripping baseboard

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#4 ·
#9 ·
why was it installed so tight to the floor in the first place.. the trim carpenters should have been told.. if its tall baseboard, just put the carpet down put down a base shoe
 
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#11 ·
Warren said:
SEVERAL HUNDRED LINEAL FEET!!

Nobody is cutting that much with any saw.
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Well, it's several fair sized rooms so he could buzz through with the Crane, but agreed why would he want to?!?

Just as importantly the end result where some of the base is now shorter and it would probably take about the same time to scootch it up.
 
#13 ·
Use a door jamb saw like the flooring guys use to cut door jambs. It's a circular saw turned on its side with an adjustable base.

For the ends, finish with a japan saw, or a back saw, or a sawzall if you're feeling froggy! Use a scrap to keep the hand saw at the same level as the power one.
 
#14 ·
I'd cut it in place with the right equipment. If you can't get a door jamb saw, then take the stuff off, run it through a table saw, and nail it back with a trim nailer - but then you've got to caulk and repaint.
 
#15 ·
Once again, if he is only cutting to avoid removing it then it is worse than pointless to rip it after taking it off.

And it most certainly is not impossible to cut it in place, inside corners included.
 
#17 ·
4 seasons said:
It will be nearly impossible to cut it in place , especially at any inside corners.
Just gonna have to suck it up and re-install it.
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I don't have an undercut saw, but I am pretty sure they will cut 1/2" deep at an inside corner.



I agree with Lone, the 3" base looks real bad when on the floor with a finish material of say 3/4.

I know because a long time ago my father and I put some in his house tight to the subfloor.
Then, we laid 3/4 hardwood and ran 3/4 round around the edges.
You can do the math and see we had a very whimpy base going on. :laughing:
Oh well, the hardwood looked great though. :thumbup:


Maybe the OP will clarify what is going on in his home...
 
#18 ·
Ok. I have given the original poster half a day to respond as to why he needs to do this, but he has not yet. We install trim in houses. This is what we do. If the base is being cut for carpet to go under, then there is something wrong with the carpet guy, he should be able to use tackless and kick it tight to the base. If it is getting cut for a laminate floor to slip under..you will still need shoe molding anyway.
We will raise baseboard up anywhere from 1/4" for thin commercial carpet to 3/4" for hardwood (where we always use shoe molding after.) In the case of a home owner that doesnt want shoe we install base after wood is finished and do our best to keep it tight to the floor.
If you need to raise it up, bite the bullet- remove it and re-install it (remember to cut the caulk first if it is finished, unless you want to repair drywall as well!
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
I am the original poster but not the installer. This base was installed in 1989 and I am remodeling the house. The base should have been installed with 1/2" gap for carpet to slip under. You need that space so carpet can be stretched in the future. If this was commercial glue down carpet I could understand not having a gap.
 
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