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Kreg Jig K2 vs. Porter Cable 550

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OlTrimguy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I was looking for some input on these tools.
I have used the Porter Cable model before , but can't remember what it's limitations are , opposed to the Kreg Jig2 or the K3 Master System.
If any of you have used either or both , could you comment on pro's and con's of each.
I have bid a trim job with head pieces , and I plan on using this method opposed to a bisquit for assembly.
There is a slight 45 degree chamfer on the trim edges , so flush fits are not as critical.

I am a trim carpenter working new residential housing mostly.

TIA for any input

Also here is a link for the Kreg tools
w w w.kregtool.com/products/pht/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=10
 
#2 ·
I've use the Porter Cable pocket cutter too and didn't like it. You have to swing the router then drill the pilot hole with a drill, move over and repeat. I have a Kreg Jig and love it. Quick and easy to set up and change and the bit drills the hole and pilot all in one step. I would definately get the Kreg.

Dave.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Porter cable quit making the 550 a long time ago, so you'd have trouble finding one except used. The used ones have been selling for a hundred bucks or so more than they used to cost new on ebay.

I burnt the motor out on my old one, then the laminate trimmer motor I replaced it with, before getting another on ebay (for more than the original cost). I tried a kreig jig that my partner had once and didn't like it at all - but that was in 95 or so, so they may have improved the drill bits and the jig itself since.

Neither of us could keep the step drills from breaking at the step. The only replacements we could get locally were from a woodworking tool store chain which has since gone banckrupt. They were probably made in china.

The porter cable was way, way faster than the other one I tried. The hole you have to drill from the back side is only 1/2" deep or so and of a small diameter. I would have that hole drilled before the router motor stopped. And the pocket screw goes into the stock parallel to the face, so the screw doesn't tend to slide the two pieces out of alignment when you tighten the screw. I didn't need to clamp the stock to anything when assembling - a major time savings, especially if you're on a job site and already cramped for space.

If you are planning on staying in the business for a while - I'd definitely consider getting a stationary pocket hole cutter. They are pretty light, have a small footprint, and would pay for themselves quickly on jobs where a lot, if not all, of the casings are jackmitered or butted like you are doing now.

Back the cost of the manual one out of the price of a stationary one, and see what it'd cost you. I just did: the porter cable stationary is $699. The Kreig stationary is about 3 times more and probably much better constructed. Most of the guys I know have used the porter for years and like it fine.

Regards,
Jimc
 
#8 ·
Kreg Pocket JIg

I haven't used the PC but have been using the Kreg for 2 years and like it very much. I haven't had any trouble with the bits breaking. One tip, I use a pocket comb (while the drill is coasting to a stop) to clean out the flutes, a real time saver.
 
#9 ·
Colonel,

Well, Joe probably broke the original and replaced it with china ones.

That's a good tip on cleaning out a twist drill. For about two years (when drilling dowel holes), I used to wipe the bit across my jeans as it was winding down.

Then one day the bit grabbed my jeans, and let me tell yah, leg skin doesn't wrap around a 5/16ths drill bit very well - even when sandwiched between denim. I highly do not recommend that method.

Regards,
Jimc
 
#13 ·
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#17 ·
Coachjohnson said:
Ive actually got 2 of those porter cable 550s, but I don't have the set up jig. Could someone post a picture and measurements of one so I could make my own?
Click to expand...
Set up block has an overall 15/16" width.
Top is for 1 1/2" material
First step down is 1/4" (1 1/4" thick material)
Second step down is 1/2" ( 1" thick material)
Third step down is 3/4" (3/4" thick material)
Fourth step down is 13/16" (5/8" thick material)


I modified mine. I ditched the stock 5/16" bit and set it up with a 3/8" so it can more easily use washer head pocket screws. I also had a machinist enlarge the hole in the drill bushing from 7/64" to 9/64" which is what my Castle TCM12 drills. The extra size makes it more easily work with the basic #8 pocket screws available off the shelf.


The tool blows the doors off the Kreg jig. You can assemble with nothing but hand pressure to clamp. Wanted a router base low angle system for site work after getting a Castle for the shop and this fits the bill.
 

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Justin Huisenga
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