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I was solicited to promote a brand of tile ready pans (not Schluter) that you use the Mapegum waterproofing product. It looked all fine and dandy but couldn't find any Spec's or testing results and later found out that the pitch is 1/8" per foot.
I would rather stick with Kerdi kits for a preformed set up or just have more fun building one myself :clap:
 
I've been chatting with the boys at AKW and have seen some pretty neat installs. The AKW pan has some good features and a proven track record in the field.

Me I like making my own and would prefer this over a Tile Ready Pan. I've never heard anything good about Tile Ready's Sku's.

Here is a look at a Quick Drain "Quick Slope Pan" I installed today on Gambier Island. I set the pan and curb in 80 minutes. The drain is a 30" Linear Drain from Quick Drain USA.

JW
 

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As for the slope in a pre-formed shower pan I believe 1/8" per foot is allowed. I think it is only a custom made pan where 2% (1-50) slope is required.

Reducing pan flex would be the key to a successful installation and insuring that the pan's are supported properly around the drain connection and perimeter.

I looked at the Tile ready pans last November at the Health Care Design Conference and didn't like them at all. With the AKW pans they spec a product from Mapei not familiar to most here in North America.

If anyone wants to talk with an expert in these types of shower installations it is best to contact Shannon Melvin.

You can reach him here;

Shannon Melvin
715-743-2771(o)
715-797-4008(c)
715-743-2738(f)
shannon@woodwright.com

Shannon has built hundreds of showers with his AKW pan and is a tradesmen like us. Worth an email if you wanted to here from an expeirenced installer.

JW
 
JohnFRWhipple said:
As for the slope in a pre-formed shower pan I believe 1/8" per foot is allowed. I think it is only a custom made pan where 2% (1-50) slope is required.

Reducing pan flex would be the key to a successful installation and insuring that the pan's are supported properly around the drain connection and perimeter.

I looked at the Tile ready pans last November at the Health Care Design Conference and didn't like them at all. With the AKW pans they spec a product from Mapei not familiar to most here in North America.

If anyone wants to talk with an expert in these types of shower installations it is best to contact Shannon Melvin.

You can reach him here;

Shannon Melvin
715-743-2771(o)
715-797-4008(c)
715-743-2738(f)
shannon@woodwright.com

Shannon has built hundreds of showers with his AKW pan and is a tradesmen like us. Worth an email if you wanted to here from an expeirenced installer.

JW
Yeah John,
This guy was over at JB forums advertising these products and starting trouble by crossing the paths of the advertisers on that site and trying to question Eric Edelmyer's expertise in the tile & stone industry
 
For linear drains and centered drains, the sloping is pretty straight forward, but when it comes to sloping a shower floor with an offset drain (not centered) how you figure it out? Wedi and Noble has ready ones but they are like 500 bucks and have lines from corners to drain.
I have 5 showers floors to prepare for 2x2 tiles (specially one 9'x 4' and the drain is 30" from one end), did not have time to brain storm, but I was wondering if there is a standard rule and practice.I am concerned that the wall tiles is gonna look non square where they meet the floor.
I hope I explained myself,the long edge 9' will look going down and up at the edge..horizontally..
How you guys do at this?
 
That would be a tough grading challenge Astor.

You might consider running a band of the floor tile up the wall like a baseboard to conceal the pitch changes.

If you keep the perimeter tile at the same elevation it will be a very steep pitch on the short side (30").

You might be able to install a 36"-48" linear drain with an extreme off set location so that you have a 28" run from the drain to each side of the shower.

Perhaps as well installing another point drain and have two pitches.

On an average shower I will work out my greatest pitch and make that the constant height around the shower - this looks great but in your shower t might be a little extreme. Perhaps you can design a dry off section of the shower and make the shower a little smaller.

Maybe a bench on the long side to lessen the run.

Hard to say what would look good.

Map it out on paper and pitch three options to your client.

Good Luck.

JW
 
TIle Redi pans are garbage. First off, they flex, which means you're going to need to fill underneath with either mortar or low expansion foam. Secondly, they need to be set in place, and then the framing done around them, because if the framing's off even 1/16", you're going to end up floating/ feathering walls to make the pan work. I've done one, once. Won't do them again. I'll give the job away, first.
 
Thanks John,
Looks like the best solution is the linear drain. One question though; what you think if I place the linear drain width wise on the existing drain location? Or should I ask the plumber to move it at the bottom edge of the bench? These all handicapped style showers(no curb).
 

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The function of the drain will not change if you place it over the existing location as shown in your drawing.

You may find that pushing the drain further from the entry is hard to achieve the pitch required. Chances are you will be upgrading the framing some what to allow a drain to be set low enough for a barrier free and then the plumber will need to modify the drain pipe in some way.

We like to install them tight to the bench more so for looks than anything. If the couple is older it may be that a center location is easier for them to clean the drain.

Consider a slight barrier at the entry maybe 3/8" to prevent a little dam. Many people using a hand held spray jet can fire water towards the entry and this little dam can help keep water in your shower where it belongs.

What type of drain are you thinking about?

JW
 
The function of the drain will not change if you place it over the existing location as shown in your drawing.

You may find that pushing the drain further from the entry is hard to achieve the pitch required. Chances are you will be upgrading the framing some what to allow a drain to be set low enough for a barrier free and then the plumber will need to modify the drain pipe in some way.

We like to install them tight to the bench more so for looks than anything. If the couple is older it may be that a center location is easier for them to clean the drain.

Consider a slight barrier at the entry maybe 3/8" to prevent a little dam. Many people using a hand held spray jet can fire water towards the entry and this little dam can help keep water in your shower where it belongs.

What type of drain are you thinking about?

JW
All the shower floors are already built 3" lower than the rest of the floor.Shower floor stone is 3/8" where the floor stones are 1/2" and thin set difference due the trowel, I think it will be lower slightly close to 1/4", thanks for the tip.
Unfortunately due the "miscommunication" between HO and the builder sent his fiberglass guy and he installed fiberglass shower and walls 3' high- but it will be useless as we will built with Noble anyway. How a someone calls himself builder and does not differentiate fiberglass and fiberglass backed drywall?:whistling
For this specific shower I will slope it less than normal like 3/16" per foot,because the run is like 6 1/2 feet.
For the brand of the drain, your website has a list of brands that you recommend, ACO, Quick Drain USA, Noble Company, My Shower Grate Shop and Luxe - Platinum Stainless Steel,I will show couple to my clients and see what they like. Will push for Noble, I like their clamping idea.
Your suggestion?
 
There all great products.

The more I install them the more I learn to leave the science here on Contractor Talk and let the pictures speak to your clients taste. To much info and you can scare the clients away. "Which grill do you like?" is a lot easier to ask and have answered than "Do you prefer a topical applied membrane or more a traditional shower build?".

Is this new construction or a remodel? Steamer or not?

Do you have access from below?

Which way do the joists run?

All of these points affect my recommendations to clients. After you install a few you will get a better Idea of what you like.

If you have a 3" drop most likely the game is wide open and any drain will comfortably fit in. Nice to see such a rough opening. I think our builders and architects are sorting this stuff out.

I just spoke to a new builder in Vernon today and he called me just before the cement poor. I asked him to leave me a 2" to 3" drop and box out the drain location - that gives him some breathing room before the final choices need to be made. Can you say "Road Trip!"? The plans are killer - three story Ski Chalet (Private Home). Three showers and a Sauna/Steam Room.

What is your favourite waterproofing products? I would start there and keep things familiar. Work backwards from the tile choice and then see which systems can work for you and offer up those grill styles to the client.
 
Thanks for pointing all those John,
I think,I can do that since it is a)new construction b)joist runs in short length c)below is not finished yet d)No steamer, no hand held spray, just big head shower from ceiling.
I use Noble Seal Ts or DalSeal only.
Do you know other brands of linear drains has same feature like Noble clamping ring?Are they designed for sheet membranes?
Leaving 2-3" lower,makes life easier,first time for this builder.
 
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