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flush mount floor registers

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dtsinc

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm installing prefinished ash floor in a house I'm building, we got a good start on it, about a third done, and the owner walks in with an armload of flush mount floor registers.:mad:

It wouldn't be that big of a deal to pull up enough rows to install them, but I wondered about making a jig and a router and flushing just the register cover into the floor and tossing the frames.

Anybody done this before?

Thanks
 
#2 ·
All the time - but I install the entire register. It is pretty common for people to want them as an upgrade when we do a sand job. I know that situation is raw wood, but I have had the HO change their mind and decide to ditch their ugly metal floor vents in favor for flush-mounts 1/2 way through a pre-finish install (like yours).

I prefer to use a trim saw with a really good blade and steady hand. Finish up the cut with a Multimaster. Masking tape on all surfaces. Outline the register with a razor knife for your cut line.

I have done one or two in a pinch entirely with the Multimaster, but it does take a while.
 
#3 ·
Yepper, I've routed them in several times. Take the time to make an accurate jig. Course now that I've got a multi tool, I just may do the next one's differently like Joining_heads@c
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. I think I will try routing on some scrap to be sure that I can do it with no chipping/splintering.
One reason for routing, I think it will simplify things when I get to the living room where there is a prow wall that bumps out. The registers will be 20 degrees off of perpendicular to the floor.
 
#5 ·
dtsinc said:
Thanks for the replies. I think I will try routing on some scrap to be sure that I can do it with no chipping/splintering.
One reason for routing, I think it will simplify things when I get to the living room where there is a prow wall that bumps out. The registers will be 20 degrees off of perpendicular to the floor.
Click to expand...

Buy a 1/4" sprial carbide bit & a set of rub collars if you don't have them already. Take shallow cuts, no more than 1/8" on the initial cut & no more than 1/4" on the rest of the cuts. Good luck with it. A little practice & you'll be fine.
 
#6 ·
Installed about 16 in my place last year....used a small bosch router, made a jig, and held it down with a couple of 50lb dumbells so there wouldn't be any screw holes to fix...tidy up the corners with a corner chisel and you are home free...I used Reggio registers, and went entire depth at once into white oak, no problem...I think those flanges are about 1/8"...
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help everyone, I made a jig and used my small PC router with a 1/2 inch bit. I rounded the corners of the grill to match the rounded hole. Worked well, looks great, and the owner is happy!:clap:
 
#8 ·
Glad I spotted this thread as I have a similar task as part of a larger project, but with an interesting twist. I need to flush mount into existing finished hardwood (2" wide oak planks, 3/4" depth) a cast iron return grille like this one:

http://www.reggioregister.com/prod_detail_list/metal-grilles-scroll-design-1216

The twist is that the edges of the grill are not smooth (a little "wavy" or "rippled" as it's cast iron) and two of the sides have uneven edges (they are not perfectly straight, the sort of curve in about 2-3" at the corners). As a result, I don't see myself being able to build a jig that matches this thing exactly, so I'm planning to use use a simple straight jig with a router with a straight bit and then fine tune the corners and uneven areas with my multi tool and maybe a chisel.

The #1 goal is to have as little gap as possible when the grill is in place (perfectly flush with surrounding wood). I have the OK to use some wood filler/putty if necessary, but want to keep it to a minimum.

Thoughts? Oh, the depth of the lip/rim is about 3/16", or maybe 5/32" max.
 
#9 ·
technique said:
Glad I spotted this thread as I have a similar task as part of a larger project, but with an interesting twist. I need to flush mount into existing finished hardwood (2" wide oak planks, 3/4" depth) a cast iron return grille like this one:

http://www.reggioregister.com/prod_detail_list/metal-grilles-scroll-design-1216

The twist is that the edges of the grill are not smooth (a little "wavy" or "rippled" as it's cast iron) and two of the sides have uneven edges (they are not perfectly straight, the sort of curve in about 2-3" at the corners). As a result, I don't see myself being able to build a jig that matches this thing exactly, so I'm planning to use use a simple straight jig with a router with a straight bit and then fine tune the corners and uneven areas with my multi tool and maybe a chisel.

The #1 goal is to have as little gap as possible when the grill is in place (perfectly flush with surrounding wood). I have the OK to use some wood filler/putty if necessary, but want to keep it to a minimum.

Thoughts? Oh, the depth of the lip/rim is about 3/16", or maybe 5/32" max.
Click to expand...
I would trace it on a scrap of MDF & use a scroll saw to cut the pattern. Tweek the pattern till the grill fits perfect. Then take a pattern bit for the router (top mounted bearing) & route in the hole. You'll get a great fit.
 
#10 ·
If they are irregular then you may have to make a new jig for each one.

Use good ply for the jigs
Lay vent upside down on ply and trace
Carefully cut out ply with either scroll saw, jigsaw with a fine blade
Clean off any burrs with sandpaper
Use router with flush cut bit with ball bearing on top
Lay pattern with the correct side facing down on scrap piece of wood
Put finish screws on either sides of vent hole to hold pattern down
Use router along edges and cut out hole
Be careful not to take too much material with each pass
Check fit, if the grill fits perfect then proceed to floor

On the floor, with regards to the finish screws that hold the pattern down, you could either enlarge the holes to accept plugs or just fill them. Using finish screws the holes should be very small. Don't use finish nails as the will pull out too easily.

This should work with whatever shape the grills are.
 
#13 ·
WildWill said:
On the floor, with regards to the finish screws that hold the pattern down, you could either enlarge the holes to accept plugs or just fill them. Using finish screws the holes should be very small. Don't use finish nails as the will pull out too easily.
Click to expand...
I use my 23 guage pinner to secure the pattern to the floor. When pop off the pattern & bend the pins back & forth till they break. They're invisible that way.
 
#14 ·
I've gone to using cutting boards for my templates. I can grab them from goodwill and garage sales for next to nothing. I don't have to worry about them getting wet, warped, banged around with the tools, and they come with a nice built in carrying/hanging handle.

Since the 90% of the time the vents are against the wall, I have pre-drilled and countersunk holes through the board, and screw in a sacrificial piece to create an L shape. I then nail/screw the wood to the wall, since those holes usually get covered by trim.

I'm also thinking of using some of that drawer liner material, and making the bottom like the "bench dogs" pucks. In theory this will work, but it's still untested.
 
#15 ·
Ahhhh.... I knew you guys wouldn't let me be lazy :) OK, I think I've got some 1/4" or 1/2" MDF scrap that I can make a tight jig out of. The reason I was being a little lazy is because: 1) I don't have a top bearing flush bit (I will splurge the $20 and pick one up), and 2) There is a decent amount of wood to route out (About 1-2" on each side - picture below) which I would rough cut out with a straight router bit or other means anyway.

As for a means of fastening the template to the floor, aside from the traditional double stick and high ga nails, I like the idea I saw above about using heavy dumbbells. I have 50, 60, or even 75lb dumbbells I could use for that, seems like a great way of securely holding the template in place with zero damage to the floor.

Here's a picture of the opening as it is now with the grille removed (roll of tape to show scale). I taped around the edges of the grill to show approx how much wood needs to be routed out:

Image
 
#16 ·
Turns out the floor is uneven, sags about 1/4" from one side of the grille to the other. No way really to bend cast iron, so this is not going to be a perfectly flush job. In fact, with such a dramatic sag (bad spot for the return) only one side can be flush, and the other side will be 1/4" above the floor or below the floor. :censored:
 
#17 ·
technique said:
Turns out the floor is uneven, sags about 1/4" from one side of the grille to the other. No way really to bend cast iron, so this is not going to be a perfectly flush job. In fact, with such a dramatic sag (bad spot for the return) only one side can be flush, and the other side will be 1/4" above the floor or below the floor. :censored:
Click to expand...
Maybe some shims on the low side under the flooring? Might could fake it up just a bit so things weren't so gross.
 
#18 ·
Did a touch more chiseling to drop it slightly and it is more or less as good as it will get based on the slope of the floor. Took quite a bit of time. Trim router with a sharp bit was definitely was the best tool for the job.

I like the idea of shimming the floor in the sloped corner. Shimming it up an 1/8" or so would make things slightly better.

Here's a picture of how it looks now, the raised/non-flush corner is the upper right, can't really see but it's about 1/4" above the surface of the floor:

Image


Image
 
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WildWill
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