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brendanstl

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I had a question about splicing some wire and the proper way to do it. I am a contractor in the middle of siding my own home, the service was changed over a few years ago to 100 amp by what I would call a lazy electrician. I have overhead coming into the house, the mast comes down to a meter and then from there to a sub-panel on the outside with a breaker in it for the fire department. The reason I call the electrician lazy is because he then hung condit on the outside of the house for about 30 feet then ran up the wall about four feet straight into the room where the panel is and then ran conduit throught the room to the panel. What I would like to do is put a pulling elbow directly below the sub-panel then run it through my band board into my unfinished basement, across the floor joist and then up throught the wall inside conduit into the back of the panel. My question is, what kind of splices do I need for the wires? I'm going to use the wire that I already have but I think I may be about 3-4 foot short and I'm almost certain that splice needs to be within a junction box that will never be covered up.

Any instructions on how to do this and materials I need would be great.
 
:no:

Just buy some new wire,

Why would you even consider splicing the feed to your panel?

I'm not an electrician, but with that being said, it sounds unsafe!

All to save a little $$ ;)

-
 
Yet another reference to the Urban Legend Electrical Code.:whistling

Splices in mains are perfectly legal and perfectly safe when done correctly. Think about how many splices and taps and terminations are done between you and Hoover Dam.
Image


However, this is not exactly a DIY project. Time to bring in the 'big guns' of a pro.
 
The master has pontificated again.

If 480 says it's possible, then ok, but splicing mains unless there's really no other option available sounds like bad juju to me. Just my opinion.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I value everyone's opinions, I have already spoke to a couple of electricians that I used to work around in the Saint Louis area and they said there would be no problem splicing, nor would there be a problem with doing it myself but I need to know what is needed and what it needs to be inside of.
 
All splices must be made in an approved junction box, which can include a number of different boxes, cabinets, and enclosures. They must always be accessible (not necessarily readily, unless temporary), and rated for location and size/number of conductors. If these are permanent connections I would use a low profile crimp (ilsco butt splice crimp), not splice bolts, as they can loosen slightly when pushed into a j box. However, for the amount of work involved, plus the cost of crimps, and you'll be damned lucky if you can find someone willing to let you borrow the ilsco crimpers, you're about breaking even on just changing the whole run.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the reply zombie..... I just had the only electrician that I can trust in this area stop by, I'd hire him but there's a reason he's so busy and not available for the next three months. He told me to pull out the old wire, strip it and sell it as scrap replacing it with 2-2-2-4 aluminum wire which will only cost me 80 dollars tops. I know there's a lot of people who say that aluminum is just for single wide trailer homes but if he uses it on his jobs I trust it.
 
Aluminum is perfectly fine. As long as it's installed correctly.

There's a lot more aluminum between you and Hoover Dam than there is copper.
 
Sparky, I agree completely. As long as he's using properly sized cable (v drop, temp, etc.) aluminum is great in large gauge wire (not so much in type nm lol). I just popped in a 200a aluminum service today.

Brendanstl: he's right. Three things you need-approved cu/al terminations/splices where using both, de-ox, and inspection (always shift liability to the inspector or your ins company may stiff you if you ever have an electrical fire).
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
I trust him but does 2-2-2-4 sound right for a 100 amp service? What does v- drop and temp mean. Im a carpenter not an electrician, this is for myself and I don't trust anyone but the guy I can't get for three months. There will be no spices, a straight run from the disconnect to the service panel.
 
.............

Brendanstl: he's right. Three things you need-approved cu/al terminations/splices where using both, de-ox,.....
De-Ox is not required with modern aluminum conductors.

and inspection (always shift liability to the inspector or your ins company may stiff you if you ever have an electrical fire).
Inspectors will have zero liability. Never have, never will.
 
Sparky, here the inspectors still check for de-ox, and many meter sockets come pre-de-oxed, at least the one I bought the other day did.
Then they need re-educated.


And to clarify, I should have typed that the ahj removes liability, rather than assumes it.
Having the job inspected doesn't remove any liability on your part. In a worst-case scenario, everyone gets sued and the contractor ends up holding the bag.
 
Any splice will do.

Well you have split bolts. And parallel connectors. <Do not forget to break out the rubber tape!> Or you could get all fancy and buy some double lugs covered up in insulated plastic. Just go down to Home Depot and tell them what size wire you are splicing. Just kidding like they will know what you are talking about right? Har har. No seriously go to the local electrical supply house and those fellas will hook you right up. http://www.odinelectric.net
 
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