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Sorry how this sounds but anyone have experience with sausage caulk?

26K views 28 replies 17 participants last post by  pro-caulk  
#1 ·


I have a very large condo painting job right around the corner and I have to seal about 600 windows with urethane. I found a waterproofing supplier that sell it in either sausage packs or tubes. The tubes are more expensive but Im more concerned with what it going to do a better job and be labor saving.

Who here has experience with the sausage type caulking guns in particular the battery operated. Dewalt and Milwakee both make one.

Im just concerned with how one goes about changing out the sausage packs. If it is messy or has the potential to be messy then I don't think I want any part of it.

Please if anyone has REAL experience with these caulk guns then please share your knowledge and experiences. Thanks.
 
#4 ·
Seriously. The gun, alone, weighs nearly four pounds, costs almost $400, and the batteries are close to $100 apiece. Not to mention the awkwardness of that huge battery laden handle always in the way.

That's Pasco thinking....... or at least Pinellas Park. :thumbup:
 
#12 ·
Have you used the battery Gun? I know the extra weight would be tiring but squeezing urethane all day would seem to be more tiring.

But that's not the real reason. I've never used a automatic caulk gun before and Im not sure if they would apply a more even bead. I know that squeezing a trigger can give a slight variation in amount applied esp. when your hand gets sore.

Truth is I don't know which is less fatigue and/or better quality of application. If anyone has direct experience please chime in. Thanks. This goes for NON-sausage caulk guns too. I think I heard from two guys that say the sausage type caulking goes very well. Next I would like to know if the battery guns are worth it? Thanks everyone, much appreciated.
 
#7 ·
I have never used a pneumatic or cordless sausage gun but have used quite a bit of sausage caulking..esp urethanes. A manual gun will give you results...I use a good gun from crlaurence. There is little mess when changing sausages. What brand of urethane r u going to use?
 
#11 ·
Thanks.

I found a bulk brand that is equivalent to Vulkem for a lot less. I have not purchased it yet, I need to run it buy the Paint supplier make sure they are ok with it since they did the material spec sheet and Warranty.

I was hesitant on going lower cost on caulking till I found Dynamite Siliconized Elastomeric 7000 for $1.25 a tube works just as good if not better than the Crap HD sells for 3x's the cost. I use it on inside windows and mouldings.
 
#13 ·
I've used the sausage guns for years now. Way better than standard tubes. I use a manual one for control. And you can cut the bead to what you need.

Don't forget to get lots of tips. Another thing - what two surfaces are you caulking to? You can contact Dow Corning and they will advise you on the correct caulking you should be using.

There are all kinds of caulking made for specific applications.

Anyway, I'd definitely go with the sausage.
 
#22 ·
Also, what about tooling? I notice some applications appear to not be tooled, others do, any thoughts here.
I don't know if this is new work or if you are re-caulking existing. If this is new work you will need to fill the space between the two surfaces with backer rod. This needs to be installed properly. It should not protrude.

Caulking when properly applied creates and hour glass cross section. This is critical. If it is thicker in the middle it will pull off the materials it is supposed to adhere to. The thinner part in the middle expands and contracts.

That's another reason to use the proper caulking for the job.

Tooling is recomended, a lot of guys just use different sized spoons. Keep them in a small plastic container attatched to your belt. Put a little dish soap in the water so the spoon doesn't stick to the caulk.
 
#17 ·
I use the Hilti gun with the fs1 fire caulk tubes all the time, and it works great. You need to buy some caulking knives a 3/8 and 1/2 to tool your caulk. and I carry some foaming glass cleaner with me spray your caulk and then tool, a tip a glazier taught me. I think the sausage tubes hold allot more and provide a smooth consistant bead
 
#18 ·
I don't have experience using the sausage type guns but I know if I were recaulking 600 windows, i would want a battery or air driven gun.

I think that the additional weight would be offset by the automatic delivery.

My concern would be the extra caulk that will leak out after you release the trigger. I think there would be a learning curve on it.

Good luck
Chad
 
#21 ·
I'm still wondering about the weight up there on that ladder. Give me a shout when you're about halfway through with that painting job... I'd like to come see how it works out for you.
 
#23 ·
Seriously. The gun, alone, weighs nearly four pounds, costs almost $400, and the batteries are close to $100 apiece. Not to mention the awkwardness of that huge battery laden handle always in the way.
Not the ones I've seen....maybe the battery powered ones...I have a manual sausage gun for concrete adhesive, after using it my eyes were opened.

It takes less force to eject the goods and the inserts cost less than tubes so the gun pays for itself very fast.

Whats not to like?
 
#27 ·
I had trouble controlling the sausage gun the first time I used it and found myself shooting caulk every place other than where I needed it to go. It was pretty messy and if I go into any further detail, this thread might get locked. ;)

But I imagine that after you get 25 to 30 windows done, you'll get the hang of it.
 
#29 ·
A sausage is the equal to two tubes.I use nothing but sausages, and i also have a cordless sausage gun it comes in handy if the joints are fairly wide and consistently the same width.The sausage gun is heavy and can be hard to control but they do have manual guns witch or easy to use. First cut end of sausage off with wire cutters, slide into gun,screw nozzle, caulk untill empty then pop end into trash. not messy in my opinion. good luck