fascia nails

Scott Young · Jul 29, 2006

i just finished a job where the previous fascia was installed with 16ga or 15ga nails. we replaced it with cedar to match the board and batten we installed.

i haven't thought of using a finish nailer. my gut tells me that this isn't right, but can you tell me why. what am i missing or am i just behind the learning curve?

Double-A · Jul 29, 2006

I prefer to pre-drill and use a 40d spike with a fender washer under the nail head it to nail cedar on. The reason is, that stuff moves so much in this part of the country. Changes in temp (~20-30 in winter low humidity, up to 115 in summer 500% humidity) make that cedar just want to pull away from anything its nailed to.

In reality, we glue with polyurethane and we tack it with 16ga finish nailer and then come back and use a 16d box nail and smooth faced hammer (carefully to avoid marring the surface) or screw it and plug it if its low enough to see the nail heads.

We got really tired of having to go back and replace trim pieces that pop off after 1-2 years.

River Rat Dad · Jul 29, 2006

Double-A, do you really think predrilling is necessary for that 40D? what about a 20 lb sledge hammer instead? All that drilling can leave shavings on the ground. :whistling

Double-A · Jul 29, 2006

River Rat Dad said:
Double-A, do you really think predrilling is necessary for that 40D? what about a 20 lb sledge hammer instead? All that drilling can leave shavings on the ground. :whistling

We drive it with our Makita Brute jackhammer. We like to use powertools when we can. I'd just hit my finger with a 20lb sledge.:blink:

As for the shavings, we just kick them into the flowerbeds and tell the client that custom-made cedar mulch is an added 'feature' of hiring us.

Teetorbilt · Jul 29, 2006

SS deck screws here. You need all of the 'grab' that you can get in rafter tails (end grain).

Scott Young · Jul 30, 2006

i am finding more and more 2x sub fascias utilized. can run trim much faster with it installed cause you don't have to lay each joint on a rafter tail. on this house there was a 2x sub fascia. with that in place the brads held well. i used stainless 8d finish nails.

where would i get a stainless 40d wouldn't 5/8" lags be better?

now, with a subfascia what would be the problem on painted fascia for using 16ga or 15ga nails?

Double-A · Jul 30, 2006

The biggest problem with using a finish nailer on cedar is that its cedar. Unlike almost any other wood you'll come across. It'll pull itself off almost any fastener you care to use, even small headed 'finish' screws.

Using a 15ga or 16ga on painted is OK, if you're shooting into something that takes and holds a nail well. I don't like stainless (for this part of the country), unless I have to because its a smooth shanked nail usually. I prefer a galv. coated nail. Once that sucker is in there, it ain't coming out without taking something with it.

Biggest problem is, you can do what you want to the shank of the nail, but cedar is just gonna pull itself off the head of the nail. As for 40d, that was all tongue in cheek.

We shoot only to tack, then glue and hand drive coated galv. box nails to help hold it on tightly while the glue dries. Once that glue sets, its not coming off.

We did a pole-barn conversion to a hunting lodge several years back. The owner had timber property with cedar on it, had it cut, milled, and kiln dried for us to use. Everything inside looks like a million bucks. All of the exterior trim looked like a scene out of the movie "Tobacco Road" within four months of finishing.

We had to reattach or remove and reattach every single piece of exterior trim on that project twice. The second time we glued it. Ten or more years later, still looks like the day it was installed.

Double-A · Jul 30, 2006

Scott Young said:
i am finding more and more 2x sub fascias utilized. can run trim much faster with it installed cause you don't have to lay each joint on a rafter tail. on this house there was a 2x sub fascia. with that in place the brads held well. i used stainless 8d finish nails.

where would i get a stainless 40d wouldn't 5/8" lags be better?

now, with a subfascia what would be the problem on painted fascia for using 16ga or 15ga nails?

Nothing depending on the species of wood, drying method and the paint job.

We buy higher quality woods for trim than most. I hate to take a Mulligan, especially where I have to send two men and a truck load of scaffolds, ladders, walk planks, ladder jacks, etc.

Scott Young · Jul 30, 2006

Double-A said:
As for 40d, that was all tongue in cheek.

i know, that is one of the reasons i like this forum. i thought i put a smilie at the end of that line to indicate i understood the jest.

:thumbsup:

Nick H · Aug 3, 2006

Do you guys use the 5 minute polyurethane adhesive, out of a cartrudge gun. Ive started using it for most everything and its just excellent. It will hold so fast that I have on occasion glued something, held it by hand for 4 or 5 minutes and its job done, solid. Problem is if you do something wrong and try to go back, oh boy your in trouble.
On all the roofs ive done recently we've run a 4x1 piece behind the facia, makes a much better job IMO.

bergenbldr · Aug 3, 2006

We use stainless ringshank siding nails for trim and siding.These have a small head larger than a finish nail but smaller than a common nail.Moving parts like barn doors get stainless trimhead screws.Imho cedar is a poor choice for rakes ,fascia ,or any part of a building not protected from the full brunt of the weather by a roof or overhang.

Grumpy · Aug 3, 2006

We use the same nails for putting up the siding. Thing shank maze nails. They won't split the wood and have a fairly small head. I believe these are the ringhsank nails bergen mentioned above. Also 2 nails per rafter.

Peladu · Aug 3, 2006

My vote goes with what Teetor said....

supercrew · Aug 5, 2006

im online and tryin to get my post count up, so here goes. cedar decks look nice, cedar siding doesnt. it weathers, its HIGH maintenence and tends to look tacky if not kept up.

where i learned the trade it was customary (retirees) to build where the homeowner NEVER had to get out a ladder. this was done with 2x6 or 2x8 sub-facia with metal soffit and facia. unless the homeowner had thier own mainenence crew on call then we'd build too suit.

Double-A · Aug 5, 2006

I agree with the remarks on cedar concerning its use. I try to avoid it, but some clients will have cedar, no matter what its issues.

As for the 5 minute polyurethane, no, we haven't tried it, and I'd be worried I'd glue myself to nail gun with it (or more like someone would glue my job box to my butt with it, I like to sit on my box at break).

fascia nails

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