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Kerdi Drain - before or after shower pan mud?

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#21 ·
I've left them in because I don't want the plastic wanting to spring back after the pan is set and before the fabric is laid. I know this doesn't make a whole lot of sense, but its just the way I've been doing it. I'll probably go w/ Johns suggestion just to be on the safe side from now on.
 
#22 ·
HandyHails said:
I've left them in because I don't want the plastic wanting to spring back after the pan is set and before the fabric is laid. I know this doesn't make a whole lot of sense, but its just the way I've been doing it. I'll probably go w/ Johns suggestion just to be on the safe side from now on.
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I don't think it's a problem leaving them in. The only reason I take them out is because the way I do it the heads are sticking up a little.

Another little trick that some of us are doing is to rough up the bottom of the Kerdi Drain a little and coat it with thinset. Seems to stick it down a little better.
 
#23 · (Edited)
ok here is my new way of doing pans with thier drain. instead of tarpaper i am using kerdi and then the drain on the foam blocks they have and then i mud. and give it two days to cure and then i hydroban or hydrobarrier the stall. and there is one to make everyone laugh
 
#27 ·
opiethetileman said:
ok here is my new way of doing pans with thier drain. instead of tarpaper i am using kerdi and then the drain on the foam blocks they have and then i mud. and give it two days to cure and then i hydroban or hydrobarrier the stall. and there is one to make everyone laugh
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Why in the world would you use Kerdi under the pan? That's an expensive tar paper replacement.
 
#32 ·
First off Angus, love the profile pic. and as far as the drain question. I know it seems rediculous but bc of decisions the customer has made (after the pan was installed with a full bench seat and with a pvc liner) to go with a trough drain. I was just curious if the two (kerdi and pvc liner) could be bonded. they do not want to tear out the old pan. I could tear out the bottom row of tile, allowing me to go up the wall some and install the membrane over the mud and flow into the new drain, leaving the pvc membrane in place. However they do not want to tear out any tile due to cost. Again, I know it is a strange question and would never be the way I would go about it but thought I would check in here and see if it could be done. thanks
 
#33 ·
wpd74 said:
First off Angus, love the profile pic. and as far as the drain question. I know it seems rediculous but bc of decisions the customer has made (after the pan was installed with a full bench seat and with a pvc liner) to go with a trough drain. I was just curious if the two (kerdi and pvc liner) could be bonded. they do not want to tear out the old pan. I could tear out the bottom row of tile, allowing me to go up the wall some and install the membrane over the mud and flow into the new drain, leaving the pvc membrane in place. However they do not want to tear out any tile due to cost. Again, I know it is a strange question and would never be the way I would go about it but thought I would check in here and see if it could be done. thanks
Click to expand...

This is odd. The pan is poured w/ a pvc liner. Your asking if you can go right over the pvc w/ kerdi? No. and you should not be seeing liner at all as it should be encapsulated in two layers of mud. That is to say if you insist on doing it the antiquated way. Also the bench is built over the pan? There is way more to this story than your telling I'd bet.
 
#35 ·
Kerdi under the Pre slope for a Hydro Barrier Shower

Dan did you use thin set or a hammer tacker to install the Kerdi under your pre-slope? You really are setting the bar high on your 'Bond Breaker' material...

I have not seen this done before. Did your client spec it this way? Is this your version of a Kerdi Shower Pan? :w00t:
 
#36 ·
Whose really in the driver's seat here?

Take it all out a redo it using KERDI Drain and KERDI Mat, It would be about a two hour job to get moving back in a positive direction. There is no good reason to rig this installation.:)
 
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#37 · (Edited)
Back to the original question with a spin. I am getting ready to install a kerdi drain for a customer (first one) in a basement floor (concrete) after moving the rough in a couple feet. Should I leave a 1/4" gap and under the drain and backfill with deck mud or install the drain flush with the concrete poor. I can always use the height adjustment (I think). But wanted to see if anyone has done anything like this.

I am not using the kerdi pan, but planning on building the base with deck mud, use kerdi liner and tile directly over.
 
#38 ·
"Flush."

Why not look up the KERDI Drain installation instructions at Schluter's website and follow their direction?
 
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#40 · (Edited)
To install the KERDI Drain the cup must be below-grade which requires some excavation. The drain itself is then placed on the drain pipe and the excavation filled with concrete under and around the drain with the drain-flange flush with what will be the final sub-surface. This so that the KERDI Mat can then be installed over the concrete and lapping the drain-flange.

Is there going to be no curb?

Here ya go...paragraph #1.
http://www.schluter.com/8_2_kerdi_drain_installation.aspx

How hard is that?
 
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