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Tinstaafl

· Capra Aegagrus
Remodeler
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've done some wrapping in sub-freezing temperatures (low 20's F) and usually regretted it after hot summer temps arrived and the metal expanded.

Waves are fine for surfers, but not my wrap jobs. :rolleyes:

Thing is, I don't do enough wrapping to have established a good feel for how cold is too cold, and it would be just as well to put it off until the summer. Now I have someone wanting a bunch of porch posts and beams wrapped.

Anyone have a good feel for what temp to draw the line at?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Framer53 said:
If you are getting too many waves you are using too many nails.
Click to expand...
I know what you're talking about, but as far as I'm concerned, ONE wave is too many. :laughing: I do use as few nails as possible, though sometimes that's a tough call when you know the area's subject to high winds.

Agreed also on wide expanses, but sometimes you have no choice. For instance, wrapping a large post would just look weird with ribs in it.

Again, problems always seem to be minimal if the wrapping is done in hot weather. When cold weather arrives, the stock will simply pull the nail holes into an elongated shape, which allows it to return to its original position when hot weather returns.
 
#4 ·
Tin,

With the cost of alum coil, it's cheaper, faster and better (no dings) to use vinyl wraps. Certainteed has a system that is dirt cheap and looks WAY better than anything you can do with coil. Also, I would check into RDI (Endurance Products) as well.

I've never seen a coil wrapped post that didn't look ghetto.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Greg, are you talking about the click-together post sleeve? Last time I checked (quite a while ago), they were pretty salty compared to coil. Most of my clients want coil simply because it's inexpensive compared to anything else we're aware of around here, and it's as much to avoid the need for painting as for looks.

I don't think my wrapped posts look ghetto when I'm done, though I've seen some that do.

But of course that's not the point of the thread, though I will check out that info, thanks. On this particular job, there's also a lot of beam area to wrap. I do good wrapping, but I want it to stay good.
 
#7 ·
Just a random thought but maybe by cutting your wrap 1/8th short at each end point and pre drilling holes in the aluminum slightly larger than the nail itself would allow enough expansion that it wouldnt wrinkle as bad?

Heres another random thought, if im feeling really ambitious i'll bend a double hem that lines up with one edge of the post. Bend the remaining 3 corners, on the fourth i bend 1/2" to slide into the double hem. if there was a way to get some glue in there you could fit it together, wrap some blue tape around it for the night til the glue dries and eliminate any nails in the post at all. Anyone follow me here or is my brain having trouble telling my fingers what to type?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Cole82 said:
Have you tried sloting the nail holes and not nailing them tight?
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Nope. Seems too iffy, given the tiny slot that would be needed to stay hidden behind the nail head, and then getting the nail driven in precisely the right spot.

jkfox624 said:
Anyone follow me here or is my brain having trouble telling my fingers what to type?
Click to expand...
Perfectly clear. I suppose you could use a hypodemic nerdle to get the glue in the hem... I might try that some warm sunny day when I have some time to kill. :laughing:
 
#9 · (Edited)
Tin Not really shure what you are wrapping, but when I wrap facia. I will bend the facia around and leave it 1" from the roof line. Use a vinyl siding slot punch the top edge of the facia. Then you have about 1.5" of unfinish facia at the top. I use a SS roofing nail to nail it. Then take a piece of stock and hem the bottom, but not super tight hem the top tight. So now you have a stiff piece of metal about 2" wide. That bottom hem that isn't super tight I hook under the head of the roofing nail holding the facia wrap on. Then I nail with a trim nail the top edge of that small cap piece. Being shure not to hit the facia wrap with the color matched trim nail. Since the nail is right under the shingles the shadow hides it and everything is nice and straight.

Hope that makes sense, if I ever do anymore wraps I will post a pic, but push azek now.

Cole
 
#10 ·
Tinstaafl said:
Nope. Seems too iffy, given the tiny slot that would be needed to stay hidden behind the nail head, and then getting the nail driven in precisely the right spot.



Perfectly clear. I suppose you could use a hypodemic nerdle to get the glue in the hem... I might try that some warm sunny day when I have some time to kill. :laughing:
Click to expand...

Haha maybe some super glue or something that comes with a little nozzle end. But then again anytime i use super glue things that arent supposed to be glued are....
 
#11 ·
I'm not sure about the perticalers, but when the metal sticks to yer skin when you're handling it, it's too cold.:shutup:
 
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#12 ·
I agree with pilot drilling the nail holes slightly larger than the nail, and be sure not to set them too tight. another trick I like is to apply some silicone caulk to the back side and glue it down, this minimizes the amount of nails used. remember the fewer nails used the better the job looks.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Per the OP, this particular job isn't fascia; it's porch posts and beams. ;)

Cole82 said:
Hope that makes sense, if I ever do anymore wraps I will post a pic, but push azek now.
Click to expand...
That does make sense, and is pretty slick. How do you secure the bottom edge of the main wrap? :thumbsup:

I was taught to do fascia by simply slipping the top edge up behind the drip edge and let it float there, and then fasten the ends with finish nails. Since the lower edge almost always has a 90° bend on it, nailing just at the ends will usually suffice.

Still not getting an answer on temps, though. Unless you can make the whole thing float like a lily on a pond, temp at time of wrapping does make a difference in how the thing will look year-round.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Different strokes. Here, the 2X nailed to the rafter tails is used as the fascia, and the wrap is used to cover and hold up the ends of the soffit.

That's why I love this forum. I get to see techniques I'd never encounter just working with local guys. :thumbsup:
 
#17 ·
Tinstaafl said:
Different strokes. Here, the 2X nailed to the rafter tails is used as the fascia, and the wrap is used to cover and hold up the ends of the soffit.

That's why I love this forum. I get to see techniques I'd never encounter just working with local guys. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Here's a technique for ya.
When I built my own home, I used F-channel for soffit receiver at the fascia and bent my own roof edge to match my coil stock.

I tucked the fascia coil behind the roof edge, but here's the trick. I bent the coil to cover the bottom of the F-channel and back bent a 45 degree lip to lock onto the F. It was a tight fit and had to be slid onto the F from an end. Once installed, I put a single 1 1/2 aluminum trim nail in the center of each panel, predrilled through the F, into the sub-fascia.

On the flush gables, I packed the gable rafter with a 2x4 before sheathing, then used a 2x6 for a rakeboard. The metal tucked behind the roof edge again, wrapped around the bottom of the 2x6, up 1.5" and formed into a siding reciever with a wall flange to flash the felt paper. One aluminum roofing nail into the center of the wall flange and done.

That was 10 years ago and they haven't lost a piece of metal yet.
 

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#18 ·
Tinstaafl said:
Unless it's JK using Superglue. :laughing:

I really thought he'd have my answer; he's in Bradford. It's cold there in the summer.
Click to expand...

Lol my wife would love that one i come home with little squares of aluminum glued to each finger. She cant talk though she glued her tongue to the back of her teeth trying to get the lid off one time, then glued her rings on her hand.
 
#19 ·
Its never too cold unless......

Like framer said its sticking to your hands :rolleyes::thumbup:

The reason i say that is its ( the wrap) gonna get cold when it gets cold.

The better answer would be to know the math for expansion and contraction of aluminum at a 100 degree temp change say its going to expand 1/4 of an inch when it warms up ? You would want to slot your holes appropriately. We have all that math at the shop. The cad guy uses it and i could tell you tomorrow. Its probably available on the internet though and you could find it tonight


Framer I have really taken a liking to your line.

Walking a fine line between perfection and production. That really sums up alot
 
#20 ·
loneframer said:
Here's a technique for ya.

I tucked the fascia coil behind the roof edge, but here's the trick. I bent the coil to cover the bottom of the F-channel and back bent a 45 degree lip to lock onto the F. It was a tight fit and had to be slid onto the F from an end. Once installed, I put a single 1 1/2 aluminum trim nail in the center of each panel, predrilled through the F, into the sub-fascia.

On the flush gables, I packed the gable rafter with a 2x4 before sheathing, then used a 2x6 for a rakeboard. The metal tucked behind the roof edge again, wrapped around the bottom of the 2x6, up 1.5" and formed into a siding reciever with a wall flange to flash the felt paper. One aluminum roofing nail into the center of the wall flange and done.
Click to expand...
Nice approach,I like it!!

Another trick I've used is to put a forward bend in
the top of the facia coil that slips into the part of the
drip edge that extends past the facia.
It will lock into the drip and make the coil more rigid because of the
extra bend.
You need to account for any irregularities in facia width
due to bowed facia or plywood lift,so bend a test piece
first and slide it along the length of facia to make sure it
works everywhere.
Since there is usually a little play in that part of the drip,
keeping the bottom edge of the facia straight is easy.

Pre-drilling all nailing is a definite plus.
I drill an 1/8" hole and use the white stainless nails.
leaving a little" play" for movement.
 
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