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Window and Door Header question

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#21 ·
Not really. My way gives options:
#1 as others have stated it not necessary to fill the void on 9 ½” unless the header is longer than 6’
#2 If it’s in the budget and the ho wants to increase the r value then we can
 
#22 ·
festerized said:
We always install the void to the inside, then the insulator could install 3/8 foam or sheet rocker can install a piece of lath across the middle.
How do you follow the nailing schedule if there’s nothing to nail too?
Click to expand...
Nailing schedule? I've never had an issue with 4-6 inch spacing at the perimeter and 8-10 inches in the field. In fact, I'd be comfortable to say that I used 15-20% more nails in sheathing than my competition, when I was framing.

I did have an issue with the inspector on an exterior inspection once. He said I needed to backnail the sheathing better, because he didn't see any streaking on the sheathing. I told him that galvanized nails don't streak. Then I showed him where galv. nails were speced on the plan. Seems he didn't realize galvies were speced on all the plans and I was the only one in town conforming.:whistling
 
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#23 ·
festerized said:
Not really. My way gives options:
#1 as others have stated it not necessary to fill the void on 9 ½” unless the header is longer than 6’
#2 If it’s in the budget and the ho wants to increase the r value then we can
Click to expand...
We always use LVLs on headers 6' or over.

As for r value, that 3/8 space is negligable. Opting for 6" walls is the best way to increase R.:thumbsup:
 
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#25 ·
I have been pushing power lam or micro lamb headers. How often do you see a power lamb headers sag like a 2x10 header would.
I understand that half the sag is coming from short liners or lack of point loads under the king stud/ liners.
Plus architects love Simpson’s plate uplift strap. (CS20) So when using these straps you no choice to but to use a solid header
 
#28 ·
festerized said:
I have been pushing power lam or micro lamb headers. How often do you see a power lamb headers sag like a 2x10 header would.
I understand that half the sag is coming from short liners or lack of point loads under the king stud/ liners.
Plus architects love Simpson’s plate uplift strap. (CS20) So when using these straps you no choice to but to use a solid header
Click to expand...
Back in the day, we used full width plywood flitches on 6' or longer headers. Centered 8' rip on openings over 8', then fill in the ends. It seemed to take out some of the deflection, but we still never shimmed the center of the doors head jamb down tight.:no:
 
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#29 ·
festerized said:
:thumbup:Great 2x6 10’ walls, love it:clap:
My back hurts just typing it
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10' walls are few and far between where I've done most of my work. At times, we've had to cut 4" off of both floors to get a 3.5/12 on the roof.:whistling

Designs and restrictions have changed over the years, but still, 9' walls were about it IME.

On the other hand, 10' first floor, 9' second floor, 9' tower and 50+ foot TJI rafters with 3/4 Advantech on entire exterior....my back still hurts.
 

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#31 ·
festerized said:
I feel your pain
Wish PC didn’t crash a few years ago. Got some crazy framings pics I could have posted
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That sucks. I don't have many framing pics of the houses I've framed. Went back and got finished pics, at least I have them.

Honestly, I didn't realize how unique most of the jobs were until several years later, when the work dried up. Guess I was just working too much to realize it.:laughing:
 
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#35 ·
Wish I had more pics of these condos I built.
The LBI condo was a reno,(not posted) we built the floor system under the existing roof. When were ready we cut out the trusses, finished the decking and framed the walls. They were awesome pics:cry:
 

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#38 ·
knucklehead said:
I almost always nail mine tight together and leave the gap to the inside.No matter the width of the wall.
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Most areas I work expect boxed headers on 2x6 walls. I was told this is to balance the weight on the jacks and evenly distribute the load. We insulate inside the box before capping the bottom.
 
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#39 ·
Putting 1/2" ply between the headers is from the days we framed walls with 2x4s, so they would match the wall thickness.

Now with 2x6 walls, we don't put ply between the lumber. And they go to the outside of the wall so you can insulate.

Headers go directly under the top plate. Jacks run up to the header. No break for the window opening.

This is code here.
 
#40 ·
katoman said:
Putting 1/2" ply between the headers is from the days we framed walls with 2x4s, so they would match the wall thickness.

Now with 2x6 walls, we don't put ply between the lumber. And they go to the outside of the wall so you can insulate.

Headers go directly under the top plate. Jacks run up to the header. No break for the window opening.

This is code here.
Click to expand...
What about if you have a 9’ or 10’ wall? Do install header tight to pl8 or run cripples?
 
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