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Window and Door Header question

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davinci

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
hey guys,i notice most window and door headrs are usually 2 -2x 10's or 2 x 12's.. howevr, i notice there is always a gap between them with some wood separating them on each side. why are they just not nailed flush together,why put plywood in between? also,why only partially fll the gap,why not one continuous piece in the middle?
also,i see plywood on the bottom of the 2 x 10's .. why is that?
thanks guys
 
#3 · (Edited)
The reason they are not nailed flush together, is because 1.5" x 2 = 3"

In most cases you want 3.5", so in order to obtain, you leave gap, fill gap, whatever.
It all about getting it to work together as dimensional lumber should.

Not sure if that answers your question,

I have also seen a lot of foam used, in place of ply,....
 
#6 ·
It's not to let air circulate. As mentioned above, it's to bring the width to 3-1/2". The load is carried by the 2- 2X members, the ply not adding anything to that so it doesn't have to be a solid piece...................
 
#9 ·
I don't let my framers build a header that way, regardless of wall thickness. The only legit reason for doing it is to make the header thickness match the 3.5" wall thickness, but that is exactly why I won't do it. There is absolutely no reason that the header needs to match the wall thickness. I generally build a box header, and they all get a 2x plate on top and bottom. The drywallers don't need to be able to fasten to the header because the 2x plates are there for that.

Doing it this way I never have to worry about a bowed header standing proud of the studs and causing a hump in the drywall.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Cache said:
I don't let my framers build a header that way, regardless of wall thickness. The only legit reason for doing it is to make the header thickness match the 3.5" wall thickness, but that is exactly why I won't do it. There is absolutely no reason that the header needs to match the wall thickness. I generally build a box header, and they all get a 2x plate on top and bottom. The drywallers don't need to be able to fasten to the header because the 2x plates are there for that.

Doing it this way I never have to worry about a bowed header standing proud of the studs and causing a hump in the drywall.
Click to expand...

I have to agree, to disagree,
I think it is important to screw the sheet to the header.
It ties everything together, from a structural bracing point of view.

Not saying anything is wrong with the way your doing it, I am just a big fan of fasteners, and tieing things together.
 
#11 ·
Seeing as how code doesnt allow us to build any 2x4 walls we just build a U box. Always have some scrap 2" blue board laying around so we just cut a piece and slide it in the gap. Insulates the header, dont have to worry about it taking a little bit of weather until its under roof, and it eliminates the chance it gets skipped when stuffing fiberglass.
 
#12 ·
I've never seen em done with a gap in the middle....I like the fact they are not flush so I can run my contact wire in the channel.
 
#13 ·
CCCo. said:
I have to agree, to disagree,
I think it is important to screw the sheet to the header.
It ties everything together, from a structural bracing point of view.

Not saying anything is wrong with the way your doing it, I am just a big fan of fasteners, and tieing things together.
Click to expand...
The plates are there to tie everything together. Header is simply to transfer load through the plate to the trimmers. There is no sheathing advantage (exterior or interior) to fastening to a header rather than the plates attached directly above and below it. The plates are indeed part of the box header. Two advantages though..


  1. No bulging drywall
  2. In thicker walls there is space to the interior for insulation.
 
#14 ·
I always nail the double 2x10 tight, then cap it with 2x4 on the bottom. When it's installed in the wall, the void is to the outside. When the sheathing goes on, it gets nailed into the double plate and the bottom cap of the header. There is no issue with plywood or OSB spanning the 9.25" void. I like the solid back of the header inside where it can be used for fastening brackets for blinds, curtains, etc.

2x12 headers, however, need to be packed because a cap won't work on 8' walls. The 2x12 without the cap leaves a very tight opening for prehung doors. I usually use 3/8 plywood for packing, as 1/2" usually ends up thicker than the wall plates.
 
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#17 ·
loneframer said:
I always nail the double 2x10 tight, then cap it with 2x4 on the bottom. When it's installed in the wall, the void is to the outside. When the sheathing goes on, it gets nailed into the double plate and the bottom cap of the header. There is no issue with plywood or OSB spanning the 9.25" void. I like the solid back of the header inside where it can be used for fastening brackets for blinds, curtains, etc.

2x12 headers, however, need to be packed because a cap won't work on 8' walls. The 2x12 without the cap leaves a very tight opening for prehung doors. I usually use 3/8 plywood for packing, as 1/2" usually ends up thicker than the wall plates.
Click to expand...
We always install the void to the inside, then the insulator could install 3/8 foam or sheet rocker can install a piece of lath across the middle.
How do you follow the nailing schedule if there’s nothing to nail too?
 
#18 ·
Simply put, there is at least 15 different opinions, or methods on this subject. :laughing:

As long as you don't forget the header, I think we are all fine. :thumbsup:
 
#20 ·
festerized said:
Nope just one way, my way, the correct way:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Your way still calls for filling the void,...:whistling

Inside, center, outside, makes no difference to me.
Your way just pushes the framing aspect on to the next trade, saving you the work.
It still has to be dealt with. :w00t:
 
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