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JohnnysMB 01-16-2010 07:26 PM

installing 250 cfm compressor into enclosed trailer
Alright, I got it in today all by myself (Egyptian style). Tear down of the old panels went quick and then I kind of tinkered around with it since my SurfaceTek pot wasn't ready to ship yet. Now the pot will be here by Wednesday and I need to get everything ready.

I got the compressor for only $2900. It is older than what I wanted (1990), but it ran really well and was pretty clean on the inside (1750 hours). It seemed like too good of deal to pass up. I saw a few of you that had compressors in a box truck and I really liked the layout so I decided to do the same in a 16' enclosed trailer. I easily stripped off 1000 pounds of metal to lighten it up. I will have vents on the tongue side of the trailer for the compressor fan to blow out of. The aftercooler and the dashboard controls will be mounted where the air pipes exit the compressor in the picture. I'll have access hatches under the trailer to drain fluids.

I've got a marine gas inlet and gas hose so I will fill up the diesel from the outside of the trailer. The exhaust will shoot straight out of the roof using the existing tractor style exhaust exit (I will also use some flex exhaust pipe so that the exhaust can flex with the torque of the motor without breaking the seal with the roof). I'm installing hose holders, bungee ties, broom holder, etc. I will easily be able to have all of the equipment in there and be well under the weight limit. If I'm picking up a full pallet of media I'll be right under the limit.

compressor when bought:
compressor part way torn down:
getting ready to put compressor into trailer:
half way there:
compressor in place:

Cole82 01-16-2010 08:04 PM

Did you Paint that? or did it come out that clean? I like the idea of inside the trailer.


killzoneq2 01-16-2010 08:13 PM

Very nice job!! Love the home made rollers LOL.. How are you going to exhaust it and let it breath?

painter213 01-16-2010 08:45 PM

Looks good. One thing is that is a Air Cooled Diesel so you will have to make sure it gets plenty of air to cool properly. I've owned several of those and they will run forever. Also, you need to put the right fittings on so you can change the fluids easily as well. That should work great once you get your vents in the trailer. I would put a isolation wall in and insulate it good for sound reduction. Also, be careful with that muffler. They are Expensive. There built by Donaldson just for Ingersol-Rand and they love the price of them. I think that last one I bought was over $300.

RIDGERUNNER 01-16-2010 09:41 PM

Painter is right. The Deutz has got to get outside air to stay cool. I've got one just like it. I can run it will the doors open you can feel it getting warmer than usual. Close the doors so it gets cool air from underneth and it's fine. Just something to think about.

Dyer 01-16-2010 09:52 PM

416 Attachment(s)
my old leroi is designed to pull the air accross the motor then out.
looks simular to yours.
the incloseure helps direct it across the motor and then the fan pulls it out.

I'd like to hear how it works for you. I have been heading in the same direction with doing a trailer too.
I thought about leaving the hood on it for the cooling of it??

Johnny, Tariler's looking good !!! lot of work into that...
let us know how it works out.


mrblaster 01-16-2010 10:09 PM

Looks good. I am redoing my setup. Just bought a lawn equipment trailer with front side ramp (blast pot access), and rear ramp (compressor access). I will winch up the compressor when going mobile. Most of my work up to this point actually gets dropped off and done in my 40x75 building.

My crushed glass will be here Tuesday, could be good bye to coal slag!

JohnnysMB 01-17-2010 10:25 AM

- I painted the frame, some piping, and the radiator housing black. You can't really see in the pics, but I painted the air tank in front red (it really looks good...see pic). The rest of it isn't too bad so I just left it. Once the console and after cooler are installed you won't even see the rest of the stuff.

I was stumped how to get it in the trailer until I thought about the rollers. It is just $6 worth of 10' conduit cut in half. That stuff is strong.

The exhaust is already pointing straight up and so I'll put a flex piece to absorb and engine movement and then shoot it straight out of the roof and seal it tight. I will install the tractor blow top thing (you can see it in the first pic of when I bought the unit) on top so that water won't rain down into the exhaust.

I'm hoping that by just leaving the rear trailer doors open and by having the vent out of the front I will create a good air flow from the rear of the trailer through to the tongue side. I'm not an engineer by any means, but the existing radiator fan, which is HUGE, and the after cooler fan will hopefully create the air flow I want. If I am having issues, I'll cut holes into the floor by the dashboard of the unit similar to what stock was to see if that helps.

What proper fitting would you recommend for the draining of the fluids? There was a handled valve for the cooling oil (which I don't understand, what if it got hit and dumped 5 gallons of your oil all over). I was just going to replace it with some sort of cap. I'd cut like a 4" hole in the bottom of the trailer right under the drain. Any suggestions would be helpful.

better view of painted air tank.

Dyer 01-17-2010 11:26 AM

416 Attachment(s)
probable a stuppid question but...
is the trailer a tandum (4 wheel)?

I think the air will be ok.

does this setup put a lot of weight on the front of the trailer? and on the truck..?

I thought about putting my compressor sideways over the wheels.
having a door on one side for the out air let, then on the other side having a door for the air inlet. plus placing my after coolers there to help pull air in as a dual function.

if it was not cooling down proporly, I could build a shroud around the motor so it would pull through better.

with this disign I could have use of the front and back of trailer.

smeagol 01-17-2010 11:53 AM

I hope you have a tandem axle. Whereabouts the weight on the compressor? Looks good

JohnnysMB 01-17-2010 12:48 PM

Yes it is a tandem axle with brakes on all 4 tires. I thought about the weight. I haven't had the tongue weighed yet, but I'm guessing it might be pretty heavy. I have a 2500 Suburban and it doesn't appear like it is sagging at all with the weight. If the tongue does end up too heavy I will get a weight distribution hitch to redistribute the weight.

I figure the motor is the heaviest part and it is closest to the wheels. All of the tools and equipment will be behind the axles which will help redistribute any front weight too.

Sideways over the axles would be great for a smaller compressor. This thing is about 9' long.

wesschaff 01-17-2010 03:23 PM

Trailer Setup
I had an enclosed trailer setup a few years ago, it worked well but one problem was that it was too close to the work being done and spent blast media clogged the radiator on Atlas Copco oil cooled diesel resulting in overheating and shut downs.
So it's a good idea to get the pot away from the air source when you can.

wesschaff 01-17-2010 03:41 PM

When looking at your proposed compressor setup wouldn't it make more sense to
turn it 180,then you would only need a small vent to supply the engine cooling and the hot air from the radiator would be free to exit to the rear of the trailer.In cold weather it will also heat your pot and lines on the way to the job.Last week I worked outside in 20*f pot and lines took hours to thaw out a real nightmare.

JohnnysMB 01-17-2010 05:51 PM

I thought about different ways to place it. I decided to blow hot air out towards the tongue to keep more of an ambient temperature in the work/storage part of the trailer. I didn't want to get in the trailer to get a tool or something and have hot air blowing hard on me or blowing tarps or such out of the trailer. I figure with this set-up it can suck in all of the cool air it wants through the rear doors of the trailer.

A couple of other small contributing factors would be:
*if the tow vehicle was idling at the same time the compressor was running for some reason, I wouldn't be sucking in the vehicle exhaust
* sucking in through the rear of the trailer puts the incoming air further away from the compressor exhaust exiting the roof
* the gas tank in this setup is on the side opposite of the side entry door, thus creating more usable space. Also puts the filler cap on the same side of the tow vehicle (just gotta make sure nobody puts regular gas in it :)
* the compressor is already plumbed/wired to have the service air and the dashboard facing towards the rear doors for easy access. Switching this around would be a pain.

Hopefully tomorrow night I can post more pics showing the gas tank install. By the end of this week I hope I'm done and can post final pics with exhaust, front vent, dashboard, etc.

wesschaff 01-17-2010 10:00 PM

It's your deal but-
The air coming off of your radiator will be harder to funnel out of a vent (your vent will have to be as large as your radiator exit).You will have the heat off the muffler to remove too.
There is snow on the ground where you live so you are evidently in a cold climate in the winter.Why not use the waste air to heat your lines pot and dry any damp bags of grit.Heat yourself too LOL!
You will have to keep tarps,spilled grit and coveralls from getting sucked into the engine mounting it with exhaust to the front.

CO2Solutions 01-17-2010 11:20 PM

looks great so far - I also 'toyed' with the idea of mounting my compressor in a trailer but we just couldn't decide wether or not we could keep the unit from over heating. My other problem was access for my trailer at some job sites, I just couldn't get a 23 footer near some of the jobsites I work at. Therefore, cube van and pulling my compressor just seemed like a better idea for myself. Good luck and keep us updated!

blastoffinc 01-18-2010 08:54 PM

Looks great. Any chance your looking to get rid of the exterior parts from the compressor? I'm looking for the sides, a door and a front.

JohnnysMB 01-18-2010 09:49 PM

I would love to get rid of the extra pieces. I was going to use the bottom metal to practice blasting and use as new sheet metal pieces to repair some of the flooring in my 1950 Studebaker project.

Where do you live? I'm in Salt Lake. I don't know how much shipping would be. If you want to buy them, I'll even blast them clean for you (I'll need something to practice on). Just about all of the metal is pretty straight. A little rust, but nothing bad at all.

Let me know if you are interested.


RIDGERUNNER 01-19-2010 09:40 PM

If blastoff is not interested in all of the metal I would be interested the the rear cover and air-oil seperator door. I'm in western N.C. I would take it all if he didn't take it and the price was right.

mrblaster 01-20-2010 12:45 PM

I need to be able to remove pot and get close to anhydrous tanks, storage tanks. I dont have to worry about compressor sucking in media, and getting all the fresh air it needs. It would have been impossible to blast the ceiling beams, and inside pool on last job with equipment confined to a trailer. I had to put pot inside the building, and run hose outside to compressor. This trailer makes for easy load and unload of media and pot.

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