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Set-Up for Spraying Cabinet Doors

36K views 64 replies 11 participants last post by  Xtrememtnbiker 
#1 ·
Looking for your set-up on how you deal with spraying lacquer(water or pre-cat) on stained cabinet doors. Do you -

Lay them flat on boards, spraying each side after drying time

Hang them, and spray all sides

Lean them up against something, and spray each side

Sit them on nails or triangle stands, and spray each side

Just looking examples on how you do this with quality results. I have been trying a couple different ways lately with mixed results. Laying flat, and also using the triangle stands. The only thing I don't like about the triangle stands are the little pin marks left in the finish:sad:.

Give me your thoughts.
 
#2 ·
On a quality job I spray 3 coats on the front and 2 on the rear. Start on the front and then flip after it dries and continue until you have the 5 coats on. The face should always be the last coat. That way no chance of damage.

On a price job 2 coats each side, use nail boards. Spray the back and then put the nail board on the door and flip it, spray the front. Put in rack to dry, repeat again.
 
#4 ·
Yes. In a kitchen job the spraying is non stop. You start with about 30 doors and you spray the first to the last and by that time you can flip them and do it all over again. You only have wait time if you have less than 10 doors or so.

Spraying is easy, all the sanding is what will burn up the time.
 
#14 ·
I have fresh air at the back of the room with a fan that blows towards the front of the room. Then I have a filtered blower at the front of the room. All air movement is from back to front.

When I have a lot of doors to do, I’ll layout several pieces on the table (each on a turntable) and start with the one in the back and work my way forward. Because of the air movement, the over spray hits the ones that haven’t been sprayed yet.

When I have just a few doors to spray, I spray at the front of the room and move each one to the back as they are sprayed.

Because I use turntables, I can set the edge of the door so it overhangs the table eliminating the possibility of bounce off the table when spraying edges.

I made my turntables small and 2-1/2” tall, for the occasions when I can’t spray off the edge of the table top and spin it. My old turntables were only 1-3/4” tall and I did get some bounce back – 2-1/2” seems to be high enough to prevent it.
 
#11 ·
You do the sides and back, sides and front, repeat. Last coat is just the front, no sides. Make sure to angle the gun so you don't get any on the sides. A good air flow is necessary for no overspray. 100 feet per minute air movement.
 
#19 ·
I sand them in place. Corner pooling can occur hanging or flat. As I stated I will spray flat if they are not bored for euro hinges. After doing it either way, my preference is hanging. Gravity works against you on the edges and details on either method. As you said, to each their own.

Tom
 
#22 ·
I sand them in place.
I guess if you are looking for an upper body/back workout, and working around the hanging clip, that works... :whistling

Corner pooling can occur hanging or flat.
Never really every had a problem with corner pooling laying flat... but then again, because I can spin it or walk around it, that shouldn't be an issue...

Gravity works against you on the edges and details on either method.
I would have to disagree with that... but it could be in how you are spraying...


As you said, to each their own.

Tom
:thumbsup:
 
#25 · (Edited)
I guess if you are looking for an upper body/back workout, and working around the hanging clip, that works... :whistling



Never really every had a problem with corner pooling laying flat... but then again, because I can spin it or walk around it, that shouldn't be an issue...



I would have to disagree with that... but it could be in how you are spraying...




:thumbsup:
Yes Cedar Lake, Indiana, the town south of my location is Lowelabma. One of those inside jokes about the "hicks" living here. I'm about 35 miles south east of downtown Chicago, I am from Chicago.

I'm going to called a Koolaide drinker, but all of my sanding is done with the ETS 125 connected to a CT. 220-320 grit Brilliant 2, never and issue. Really easy to do, no work at all.

On a cope and stick door, there will be vertical surface no matter the orientation when spraying. Seen many with corner build and runs.

If I can spray an entire door vertically, I'm pretty sure I can handle the details when they're flat.

Do you spray your boxes on the flat and then assemble, or assemble and then finish? If it is the latter, how do you avoid vertical?

Tom
 
#23 ·
Space can go away very quickly when doing casework.

I'm hoping to get a job where neither area I have available will work. The volume of plywood alone would over whelm them (175- 4x8 sheets, 240-28x70 panels). Plus all the raw material to make the necessary door frames. Fortunately for me my parents 48x60 pole barn is essentially empty since they sold their motor home. I'll set up a temporary fab shop and spray booth. Finished items will go directly into the trailer waiting for delivery.

Tom
 
#33 ·
What :eek::eek: tell them they have to shop at Jewel, so the store doesn't close my and wife has her job.

Strack & Van Til, (I know it doesn't matter) I know exactly where that store is. My wife will shop at the one in St. John and is looking forward to the one opening in Cedar Lake.

Can you tell things are a little slow right now? Way to much forum time.

I was from the southwest side of Chicago. This one landed 2 blocks from where I was raised;

http://galleries.apps.chicagotribune.com/chi-121203-united-airlines-flight-553-crash-1972-pictures/

It made for a few interesting days.

Tom
 
#39 ·
I don’t know why I’m do this forum time right now – I’m up to my a$$ in work and should be out in the shop. There’s just a couple threads that have some interesting discussions going and I can’t tear myself away :laughing:
I don't recall having the issue. If you look at the pics in post #5, they really don't block much of the door.

I'm waiting for some material to come in and to hear back on a few proposals.

It can suck up time when threads get interesting.

I think I shoot vertical because it is what I had done for years when shooting automobiles. Just what I know and am used to.

As I said, I've used Collins clamps to hang items to shoot (feel free to look around at all the albums);

https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/CollinsClamps

Tom
 
#37 ·
Don't worry, you're not alone. I've got materials I need to run to a job site, and I'm sitting here salivating over your wine rack and engrossed in a discussion of which is the best way to spray cabinet doors.... hanging or flat, turntable 1-1/2" or 2-1/2", what about corner pooling, overspray and bounce back, how about the gravity and airflow thing?

Just fascinating stuff really.

:thumbsup:
 
#45 ·
Nail boards have 3 or 4 nails or screws poking through a board (I have used 1/2" ply scraps). You start with the good side down on the points (very gently of course) and spray the back side first, no edges. Then flip the door over carefully laying the freshly sprayed door face on the points and quickly finish the sides and good face.

By the time it all dries, it is pretty difficult to see the pin holes. You can touch those up pretty easy though.

I used to do the nail board, but don't anymore. I spray one side at a time.
 
#46 ·
That's what I thought. I guess I was confused when he said he put the nail board on the door and then flipped the door. I would of thought that you flipped the door and set it on the nail board. Thinking about it now though I can see how it would be easier to hold the door(with out touching the wet finish) and with less risk of dropping it on the nails. That Leo is pretty sharp:thumbsup:
 
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