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Help With Polyurethane

 
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:13 PM   #1
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Help With Polyurethane


So I'm refinishing a gun stock and this poly in a can won't dry- I've put 3 light Coates (I thought they were light) and then lightly sanded and put another coat. It's a day later and it's rough and not tacky but for sure not dry. The can said wait 4 hrs between Coates and dry hard in 8. What am I doing wrong and what should I do?

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Old 05-24-2015, 06:14 PM   #2
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


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Old 05-24-2015, 06:22 PM   #3
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Maybe it old.

Conditions when you sprayed it?
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:25 PM   #4
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


In my garage- it's been between 60-70 degrees. I just bought the can- doesn't have a date on it.
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:26 PM   #5
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


I almost took the stock to the guy I'm building an auto body shop for and had him spray it in clear coat. I wish I would have
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:40 PM   #6
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Quote:
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Hey, that bike doesn't have a backrest... that's a safety issue.

Might have to call Oh**** on that one
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:51 PM   #7
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


My wife complains about not having a sissy bar the 2 times a year I talk her into going with me for a ride lol
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:32 PM   #8
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


My first thought was old as well, but I don't think that's it. Next thought would be too cool. Poly doesn't dry well in cold temps. But I would think 60-70 would be warm enough. Put it in front of a fan & see if it doesn't dry.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:34 PM   #9
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Take that finish in a can off and take the stock to your cabinet guy.

Now if you want to add some color & clear coat go to the body shop guy.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:44 PM   #10
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


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Take that finish in a can off and take the stock to your cabinet guy.



Now if you want to add some color & clear coat go to the body shop guy.

That's not what I want to hear - lol
I spent 6 hrs sanding the old finish off I thought about the cabinet guy first but lacquer isn't very durable and doesn't touch up at all. Isn't that all they put on cabinets is lacquer?
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:48 PM   #11
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


If it is a working gun go with a hand rubbed oil finish.

Trophy rifle, doll it up and put it in the safe to show off.

Think about going synthetic if it is a working gun.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:53 PM   #12
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Ya it's not a trophy- it's a 70's Winchester model 70 (push feed) that I picked up from a kid for $400. It was dinged up pretty good so I thought I'd re-finish it. If it's not perfect I won't cry.

These are the safe queensHelp with polyurethane-imageuploadedbycontractortalk1432518738.260557.jpg

These are the working guns
Help with polyurethane-imageuploadedbycontractortalk1432518773.007514.jpg
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:55 PM   #13
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjaframer View Post
That's not what I want to hear - lol
I spent 6 hrs sanding the old finish off I thought about the cabinet guy first but lacquer isn't very durable and doesn't touch up at all. Isn't that all they put on cabinets is lacquer?
The best thing for rifles is Tru oil. Easy to apply & easy to touchup.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod4952.aspx
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:06 PM   #14
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjaframer View Post
Ya it's not a trophy- it's a 70's Winchester model 70 (push feed) that I picked up from a kid for $400. It was dinged up pretty good so I thought I'd re-finish it. If it's not perfect I won't cry.

These are the safe queensAttachment 185594

These are the working guns
Attachment 185602
Model 70, outstanding weapon....

Oil finish that bad boy, glass bed it, build a hand load for it & you have yourself a rifleman's rifle.
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:52 PM   #15
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Quote:
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Model 70, outstanding weapon....



Oil finish that bad boy, glass bed it, build a hand load for it & you have yourself a rifleman's rifle.

Limited edition (500 made) model 70 in 257 Roberts- controlled round feed. Glass bedded, trigger job and custom load developed by Professional Ballistics inc. topped with Swarovski 3-9
My baby
Help with polyurethane-imageuploadedbycontractortalk1432522169.556366.jpg

Original floor plate, I took it off and replaced it with a plain one (to flashy for me)
Help with polyurethane-imageuploadedbycontractortalk1432522330.128825.jpg
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:55 PM   #16
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


and you are trying to spray poly that baby.....
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:57 PM   #17
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Different model 70
Re finish is a 7mm mag

I was just showing off with the 257 bob
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:05 PM   #18
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Maybe the humidity is the problem.

What I would do.....

Let it cure....for however long it takes.

Use some #0000 steel wool to get it back to baby-butt smooth.

Buy a can of whatever sheen you want polyurethane...a pint will be too much.

Mix a batch of 50% poly and 50% naphtha in a clean container and get a rag of old t-shirt "dog's nose wet" and apply it to the stock....be fast and don't worry much about what you missed.

Let it dry 2-3 hours...do it again...let it dry....do it again. A gun stock should take you no more than 30 seconds to apply. Use a fresh rag each time as the old one will get stiff.

After the 3rd coat, scuff with #0000 steel wool and repeat all 3 coats. After 6 coats total, you may want to call it a day, but the more you apply, with scuffing on the 3rd coat...the deeper and better the finish will be.

Let your final finish cure for a week or so. If you can't smell it...it's cured.

Apply a good paste wax, again with #0000 steel wool.

Next...show off your finishing skills. It will be a great looking, hand-rubbed looking finish. Guaranteed.
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:17 AM   #19
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Ninja, the spray poly can and does wind up soft or gummy. I've never figured out why - possibly humidity, possibly solvent in the wood, but I think it's actually the product. It will harden up after a couple months.

You're better off, IMO, using a brush on urethane, but thin it at least 4 oz per quart. Thinner than that can be better, and the first coat is a very thin sealer coat. You generally don't want much build, but you still have to put on a few coats for a decent finish. Checkering gets a sealer coat , and any excess is blotted off. You can't put much finish on checkering without it losing the crispness.
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:34 AM   #20
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Re: Help With Polyurethane


Quote:
Originally Posted by Robie View Post
Maybe the humidity is the problem.

What I would do.....

Let it cure....for however long it takes.

Use some #0000 steel wool to get it back to baby-butt smooth.

Buy a can of whatever sheen you want polyurethane...a pint will be too much.

Mix a batch of 50% poly and 50% naphtha in a clean container and get a rag of old t-shirt "dog's nose wet" and apply it to the stock....be fast and don't worry much about what you missed.

Let it dry 2-3 hours...do it again...let it dry....do it again. A gun stock should take you no more than 30 seconds to apply. Use a fresh rag each time as the old one will get stiff.

After the 3rd coat, scuff with #0000 steel wool and repeat all 3 coats. After 6 coats total, you may want to call it a day, but the more you apply, with scuffing on the 3rd coat...the deeper and better the finish will be.

Let your final finish cure for a week or so. If you can't smell it...it's cured.

Apply a good paste wax, again with #0000 steel wool.

Next...show off your finishing skills. It will be a great looking, hand-rubbed looking finish. Guaranteed.
This looks like a correct finishing schedule.

I sometimes apply with 0000 steel wool and wipe off, but that's a lot of coats to get much final finish, and it's very technique sensitive and you have to move very fast.

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