Okay. I just got back from my home show on the coast. Water tables will be a issue. Alot of the leads i have are for homes on water. Even if they arn't on the water, they are still just a couple feet over sea level.
I know its possible to deal with the water, but how do i do it? I heard alot of different things, but am un sure what to do.
I've even heard some people say to drive piliens into the ground and anchor the pool to them.
when dealing with groundwater (and yeah, you'll eventually run into it) generally what I do is create a well point
I carry the materials to make one on my truck the day of excavation - that way in case I do hit groundwater
One "quality" install feature you need to include in your fiberglass packages is some type of sump system in the event that you (or your HOs) ever have to drain the pool.
It takes literally 20 minutes to set this up - and a material cost of $20 that could eliminate a potential $20,000 problem
OH - you need to charge your client for this. It is an unforseeable cost.
Not so much for the materials to make a well point --- but it could slow your work
I don't know much about pool construction but if the pool fills up with groundwater, wouldn't there be a good chance of exposing the ho to contaminated groundwater on a long term basis? Especially if your in NJ ruskent?
Another thought...lowering the water table can cause settlement in adjacent structures. Another reason to contact an engineer in more extreme cases.
i was wondering when this topic would come up...
it has been bounced around in PMs & there is a small thread in the EX&SW forum on it.
ground h20 can be managed, but every situation is unique...
i have set "manholes" w/ pumps next to excavations, burried sump pumps under pools & left them for dead after install.
does grade/ slope allow you "daylight" drainage?
a metophor which comes to mind is "you cant use a basket to carry water" i would liken stone to the basket, you can pump through it & work on it when you have built enough up...
water comes in many forms, ranging from annoying to a major PITA.
dealing w/ big water on renovations & installs is to different ballgames.
i would be very clear w/ excavator it is his job to provide you w/ a workable "hole", have a game plan who is responsible for the water related materials...
when a big water job comes around be there!!!
and when the job is on river rd, old swamp hollow, or job's pond rd its a good hint you are in for it lol
matt are you concerned w/ the excavation or your shell placement??
can you cut or order your shell w/ extra m/d pots to allow more hydor-sats valves?
when driving arouns & you see new homes being built check out the tricks used by the foundation guys..
Ray i am worried about to much water in the hole poping the pool out of the ground. Normally i will tie the pool into the decking with rebar.
Alot of the leads i have are for houses that are 2 or 3 feet above see level. Some houses are on the bay or lagoons. I know at 2 or 3 feet we will hit water on most of them down on the coast.
Hopefully the first couple i put in the ground are easy ones!
once water is in the pool - you will be fine. you NEED to install a sump system in the event that YOU ever have to go back and drain the pool (i.e. warranty - whatever, etc).
Instead of "abandoning" a well point - just cap it off and leave it. If it's stick out of the ground, dig down a foot, cap it off a foot below and then cap it - MARK it so that you or anyone else can use it in the future if they have to
problem will be to keep the water out while you are prepping for the shell (i.e. laying the base)
that's what your well point will be used for.
it's about equalization. let's say your shell is 8 feet deep
and there is groundwater 6 ft
you need to fill that shell 2 feet with water to equalize the pressure
in other words - take a hydrostate valve. It will allow water to seep in --- however --- that water that comes in will not be a higher level than it is in the ground ---- because is equalizes.
You guys are doing well with this thread. The simple answer to all water is "keep it lower than the work"
Rusknet, are these pools going to be in sand? the soil type can compound the problem greatly. Water moves through sand so quickly nothing is stable. If your real close to the shore the tides can be a factor. We dug quite a few jobs on Long Island Sound factoring in the tide. When on the shore the hard part is to judge how much pump will be enough. If you can find an excavator who knows the area and is good he could be real helpful.
First thing to do is approach it contractually as a regular dig and have everything to do with rain, underground water, pumping, pumping set up costs, re-digging, over digging, unsuitable material removal, delay from all the mentioned, etc, etc as an extra cost.
Once the agreement is sign a test hole would not be a bad idea if you are real uncertain. Just like a deep hole test for a septic perk test.
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