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-   -   Recharge refrigerant (R134) (https://www.contractortalk.com/f6/recharge-refrigerant-r134-355569/)

randyle2015 08-13-2017 07:17 PM

Recharge refrigerant (R134)
 
Can we use Artic Freeze synthetic R134a+ that sell at Harbor Freight to recharge on the refrigerator (Kenmore)?

The refrigerator label indicated that R134 with 4.96oz to be used so I assume that we can recharge any R134 refrigerant either with a regular or synthetic.

Someone at the store said that the Artic Freeze R134A+ is used for Auto but I can be used for refrigerator too as long as it doesn't over charge.

I'd like to get more inputs from experts.

Thanks,
Randy


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griz 08-13-2017 07:22 PM

do you have a tap on the refer to even add refrigerant?

when refrigerant runs low there is likely something way wrong somewhere in the system.....

randyle2015 08-13-2017 08:12 PM

Recharge refrigerant (R134)
 
I have a bullet piercing value to tap on the processing tube. I tried to change a relay and overload relay protector but it didn't help. The compressor seems running fine as well as condenser fan. I just need to check the freon level by using the gauge. Just need to confirm whether the synthetic R134A+ can be recharged for the refrigerator. Any thoughts?


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randyle2015 08-13-2017 08:15 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b3d275d1a1.jpg


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flashheatingand 08-14-2017 09:21 AM

should be alright.you have gauges to check the charge? Anywhere on the nameplate that indicates how much the factory charge was?

randyle2015 08-14-2017 01:04 PM

Recharge refrigerant (R134)
 
The label inside the refrigerator indicated 4.96Oz for R134A


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randyle2015 08-14-2017 01:09 PM

Have anyone done this before by using the synthetic R134A+ for Auto on the refrigerator? Does it really work? What's the difference between the R134A for Auto and R134A for refrigerator????


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SuperiorHIP 08-14-2017 11:23 PM

R134a is R134a, just be sure it doesn't contain oil or any other additives (maybe it doesn't matter but in such a small system I wouldn't want to add anything other than refrigerant).

hdavis 08-15-2017 08:14 AM

134a is 134a.

Auto recharge cans frequently have leak stop, PAG oil, UV dyes,...

flashheatingand 08-15-2017 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randyle2015 (Post 6192841)
Have anyone done this before by using the synthetic R134A+ for Auto on the refrigerator? Does it really work? What's the difference between the R134A for Auto and R134A for refrigerator????


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What have you got to lose? If they system is low on refrigerant, it doesn't do you much good, otherwise. Unless you want to put a block of ice on the top cabinet, every few days. :jester:

randyle2015 08-15-2017 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hdavis (Post 6195281)
134a is 134a.



Auto recharge cans frequently have leak stop, PAG oil, UV dyes,...



That's true. Other said that it's better to use pure R134A which normally come in a big tank (clean without oil) instead of using the refrigerant 12 oz can for auto where they put 1 or 2oz of oil.


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hdavis 08-15-2017 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randyle2015 (Post 6195561)
Other said that it's better to use pure R134A which normally come in a big tank

I've bought plenty of small cans that had nothing but refrigerant.

randyle2015 08-15-2017 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randyle2015 (Post 6195561)
That's true. Other said that it's better to use pure R134A which normally come in a big tank (clean without oil) instead of using the refrigerant 12 oz cans for auto where they put 1 or 2oz of oil.


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sailsfast 08-17-2017 12:02 AM

You should evacuate the system and weight back in the correct charge. Only way to get it right with such a small charge! You won't get it right using your gauges. The question is were it went.

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randyle2015 08-20-2017 09:39 AM

I replaced the compressor, vacuum all the air out and then recharged refrigerant (R134a) slowly. After reading the low side gauge, it shows 3psi which is expected. I have waited for 10 hours and the refrigerator still not cooling. I did even replaced relay, overload protector relay and filter dryer and still not cooling. Any suggestions? Check Defrost timer?


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flashheatingand 08-20-2017 10:31 AM

Possibly a restriction at the metering device.

hdavis 08-20-2017 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailsfast (Post 6200769)
You should evacuate the system and weight back in the correct charge. Only way to get it right with such a small charge! You won't get it right using your gauges.

Maybe this...

SuperiorHIP 08-20-2017 12:36 PM

I would absolutely weight in the charge. I'm no a/c pro (obviously), it took me 3 tries with my truck and finally called my a/c buddy and he said weight it in. The gauges looked good when I charged it but the system is designed for whatever that sticker says the weight should be. Weighted in the charge and while it seeed a little low on the suction side its been problem free since.

randyle2015 08-20-2017 04:37 PM

That's very interesting...if the weight is off that system is required then it won't cool even though it's not over charge? I don't have a right equipment to weight it. I was thinking the other components could be failed hence the system won't cooling...


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TimberlineMD 08-20-2017 05:29 PM

Time for a new fridge..

flashheatingand 08-20-2017 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randyle2015 (Post 6210641)
That's very interesting...if the weight is off that system is required then it won't cool even though it's not over charge? I don't have a right equipment to weight it. I was thinking the other components could be failed hence the system won't cooling...


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Harbor Freight has a postage scale that works pretty good. About thirty dollars. They have less expensive models, for the small cans like at the auto parts stores.

randyle2015 08-20-2017 07:20 PM

I noticed the low side indicted the same psi -20 ( was 3 psi) whether the refrigerator power on or not. I'm hoping the compressor still working as I just replaced it with a brand new one. Not sure why the low side gauge doesn't Change....I did vacuum for half an hour last night.


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SuperiorHIP 08-20-2017 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randyle2015 (Post 6210641)
That's very interesting...if the weight is off that system is required then it won't cool even though it's not over charge? I don't have a right equipment to weight it. I was thinking the other components could be failed hence the system won't cooling...


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The issue with my truck was that when I charged to correct pressure the head pressure would run too high. I figured there was a blockage so I flushed the system and replaced the orifice tube and the results were the same. The weighted charge gives a bit of a low suction side but the head pressure stays in check.

I used my wife's food scale to weigh it in. The drum I had only had around 13 pounds in it and the food scale had a max capacity of 15lbs so it worked out.


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