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Flashing question on attached deck level with Sliding door.

21K views 8 replies 7 participants last post by  tolken4 
#1 ·
Question of the day... How would you flash this?

Ok, what would you do. I am finally getting started on this project, I had another post about flashing some cantilevered joist. Got that figured out, got some copper flashing all done up for the joist and the project has started.

I was not happy with the plans as drawn of going thru the brick veneer so I have taken off 4 courses of brick under the sliding glass door. The plan is to build out the section underneath with 2x12s allowing me to have 102 inches of direct connection with the Rim board of the house.

Haven't done many connected decks, and those I have done did not have this setup with the brick at a sliding glass door.

Current plan is to use flexwrap with duraflash. Flexwrap will be used under the duraflash in the door area. Both will go over the ledger. The area that is brick will have a typical z flashing into a cutout in the brick joints above and then over the ledger. This joint in the brick will then be back filled with silicone.

The attached pics are when the brick was still there. The brick will be gone replace with 3 2x12s stacked screwed and glued to give me depth needed to bring everything flush with the brick veneer.



 
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#4 ·
Yah, I wouldn't if I had a choice. Already low. I could drop it a little, but I hate having a trip hazard. I like a full step if I have the room, but just an inch or two seems like a good way to break grandma's hip.

Tom, good idea, not sure how I will do a pan like that with this duraflash. Never used it before, not sure how workable it is. Anyone worked with this stuff? Anyone know if I can glue it like you would sched 40?

I plan on doing some mockups once I get my hands on the stuff, but it is still in the mail.

I planed to line the whole thing with the tyvek flexwrap before the plan. I don't want the water on those 2x12s either. PT or not, they would rot with no air over time.

There is a barrier of 6 mil plastic around the whole rim board. I was debating on keeping it to get the flexwrap to stick on the wood, or leaving it as a barrier. It already has some holes from my handy work getting the brick out :( So, I am leaning towards cutting out that section.

Thanks again for any input, I will try to put up a picture tonight of the removed brick.
 
#5 ·
I am in the other camp we build " flush " with the door all the time.

We are in Cowtown so snow build up is not an issue. I could not even get my hammer out of the belt where you NE guy's build. 4' piers????? over here it's 18''


Anyway we go under the door and into the morter line with flashing a few inches past. No problemo.

J.
 
#6 ·
I think Tom has the plan - pan flash before the ledger goes up and drain to daylight on top of the lintel below. Should be pretty easy and very effective.

I just did this to a large window mull - theory is the same.

Don't set the ledger/blocking on the pan - leave it shimmed up a bit for drainage.

It's nice to see you perfecting your craft and trying to do things the right way :thumbsup:
 

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