Diagonal Trex Deck Build

TG Deck · Apr 23, 2015

I have a 12x35ish Trex deck to build that will have two border/picture frame boards surrounding and two in the middle, having two sections with opposing diagonals.
I've done this before on wood decks, but not with composite.
My thinking is to build the frame, mark the frame for the layout, lay the inner diagonal boards and cut them as they are laid, then setting in the border/picture frame boards.

I would appreciate advise and shared experience from others for this.
My biggy is getting a close-to-perfect gap between the borders/top framing and the diagonal boards.

"Money cuts" when doing the diagonals, I know.

Your thoughts, please....

aaron_a · Apr 23, 2015

track saw

TG Deck · Apr 23, 2015

I've thought about that and also setting secure fencing to run the saw.

The money cut....

SelectDecks · Apr 23, 2015

You mean like this? Just left the site

TG Deck · Apr 23, 2015

Similar, yes.
I'd like to cut the diagonals all together after they are laid...at least that my thinking now.
I want to achieve an even gapping for the boards.
Just seems better than making a hundred miter saw cuts....

killerdecks · Apr 23, 2015

Run em wild, cut em all at once w/skill saw. than lay your borders in, save hours, of work, more time to ride, or play, or build more decks

TG Deck · Apr 23, 2015

killerdecks said:
Run em wild cut em all at once w/skill saw. than lay your borders in save hours, of work

Yeah.
How do you set up for this?
Angle metal fence or track or what?

SelectDecks · Apr 23, 2015

We start our boards at the front, with the angles. That way it's a full board out front, if you start in the middle you end up with a ripped board in the front and back likely. Save yourself 600+ for a track saw and steady eddy it, all those cuts you see were done by hand. Don't own a track saw....have been thinking about it though can't lie about that

Definitely run long then cut for spine. Will save you many many hours as others have said

TG Deck · Apr 23, 2015

SelectDecks said:
...... Save yourself 600+ for a track saw and steady eddy it, all those cuts you see were done by hand. Don't own a track saw....have been thinking about it though can't lie about that

That 600 turns into a grand with the tracks...
I'm looking at using 2x2 angle iron as a fence.
Your work looks nice.
I'll have a lot of people looking over my shoulder on this job and need to nail it right.

SelectDecks · Apr 23, 2015

Like this

EthanB · Apr 24, 2015

Can i ask why you run your blocking on the flat? It would be a potential rot area in my climate.

greg24k · Apr 23, 2015

I'm sure you know, but make sure you frame 12" OC with the Composites.

TG Deck · Apr 23, 2015

Yeppers.

And blockings for the opposing sides/borders.

Dan_Watson · Apr 23, 2015

That track saw is one of the best purchases I have ever made. SO many uses and every one of them is better than not using it and much much faster.

greg24k · Apr 24, 2015

x2 Dan, couldn't agree with you more. :thumbsup:

Calidecks · Apr 24, 2015

The track saw is faster, better cut line and easier. It's a no brainer. What's not to like?

Xtrememtnbiker · Apr 24, 2015

I would lay out the border first. Or at least enough of it to make sure at least one of the corners I start with the long point of a full board. Probably the outside edge at the seam board on both sections. Then I'd chalk lines if needed or make note of where to run past and lay all the diagonal decking running wild.

I would then use a track saw since I own one and cut the ends off. I'm sure free handing is fine, but a tracksaw gives a better cut. When there is absolutely zero variation in your cut line, that seam board would drop in with a perfect gap all the way down.

TG Deck · Apr 24, 2015

That's my thinking, but to scribe/mark the borders and then lay the diagonal decking, fitting the border boards in after.
There will be Trex skirting over the p/t framing, and I will have a tad of f-up room with the planned overhang.

The requirement is exact layout and measure...as I see it.
Thanks.

Calidecks · Apr 24, 2015

I cut in all the borders and seam boards first, mark where they go, remove them run all my decking wild except where I can't get my track saw, then cut everything at once. Then replace all the borders. Cutting one 45 at a time isn't only very slow it has a tendency to get the "saw tooth" effect. since I'm cutting in the borders first, and if there isn't a post in the miter I can run a saw Blade through the miter. "Marrying them". Not having decking in the way makes this possible. Where the challenge will be with composite and the tc-g clips is getting the "nose" and "heel" to line up with each other on each side of the seam board.

TG Deck · May 1, 2015

Californiadecks said:
.....since I'm cutting in the borders first, and if there isn't a post in the miter I can run a saw Blade through the miter. "Marrying them". Not having decking in the way makes this possible. Where the challenge will be with composite and the tc-g clips is getting the "nose" and "heel" to line up with each other on each side of the seam board.

I've done this with 5/4 wood before and it takes some stress out of having to 'nail' that perfect miter cut. You're just losing the kerf.

We're only flat blocking the corners by the posts. The rest of the opposing borders are short/ladder blocked.
We have the OK to face screw the border boards, thankfully.
All double border boards need a jigsaw because of the posts.

I wished the post shirts were wider...

SelectDecks · Apr 24, 2015

That's one reason for the decent size gaps between the flats. But mainly because it gives us a large area for the diagonal boards to land on. We could have sistered joist or something along those lines but just went with this

Calidecks · Apr 24, 2015

We account for one joist 1" from the diagonal edge, during layout. That way regardless of the angle length you still have 1.5" to fasten to. Then we just ladder block with little joists between them.

Tom M · Apr 24, 2015

I do it like Mike. I did find out some flat blocking in the corners saves some problems when you end up with a baby sized triangle.

killerdecks · May 1, 2015

your supposed to deck and then rail

TG Deck · May 1, 2015

These posts are in concrete and run up thru deck.

EthanB · May 1, 2015

I use cortex on borders. They are damn near invisible if you take the time to line the grain up.

TG Deck · May 20, 2015

We wound up truing a board on a table saw and using it as a fence with a solid circ saw and everything went well. The border boards laid right in where we wanted them.
Lots of stress and prep...and she looks magazine-beautiful.
If we were doing many more of these diagonal inlays, I would spring for the $1300-1500 track saw system.
Anyway, I do appreciate the help.
She has a fork in her now....

RobertCDF · May 20, 2015

I use the track saw for more than just border and breaker boards. I run all my decking wild off the frame and drop the track and cut it. I used to freehand it and I was plenty good at it but the tracksaw makes it brainless. I can drop the track and stop midway to answer the phone/sneeze/pick my nose/etc and the cut doesn't get messed up.

Track saws are requirements for a high end deck building company. If you're blowing out track decks then don't worry about it.

EthanB · May 20, 2015

Really? Not even one pic?

SelectDecks · May 21, 2015

Track deck?

RobertCDF · May 21, 2015

Much like track homes, around here most track homes come with an 8x10 deck that lasts for 5-10 years, there's no craftsmanship at all, it's all about speed.

SelectDecks · May 21, 2015

Volume builders - 300+ townhouses going up a year here, see them all day everyday

Diagonal Trex Deck Build

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