We finished the deck a couple of months ago on the custom home we built over the winter.
In one area the gap between the bottom of the siding and the top of the decking (Fiberon) is about 3/8" and you can see the label "Fortiflash" The HO is being picky about it and I was curious as to what you guys think.
You can zoom on the photo through the link. What happened was we shot in all the ledgers with the laser and flashed behind (you can see in the photos before this shot) etc etc. Then we sided, when we installed the joists we installed hangers first flush with the bottom of the ledger, then the joists. So the joists at that corner were a little high and we cut the siding up.
I agree, they are being really picky............that being said, if I were in your shoes I'd find a way to make them happy. I don't think you want to take the chance of po'ing a client if you can make it right........
It's not picky, that would bother me too if I could see the writing on the flashing. I would have made the siding closer to the decking. I don't know if paint will stick to the Fortiflash, you can try some roofing tar, or stick another piece of flashing over it.
Most sidings that I work with want a lot bigger gap between the siding and the deck then 3/8".
If the writing is actually highly visable, I would probably have a problem with it. I just don't see anyone being able to see it unless it is close to eye level.
I saw that in their specs too for JamesHardie, fiber cement siding. They want a 1" to 2" gap, but why? I think that would just look really bad if you left that large of a gap. I am looking at a deck right now with an 1/8" gap between the siding and the deck. It is fiber cement and has been there for 20 years, no sign of decay with the siding or anything.
I've seen it at trade shows but never used it yet. I wish some suppliers would stock it. The supplier near me just has the grey plastic kind. it's not something you really see if it's done correctly. I don't see the need for the double kick out. if the ledger has membrane behind it, then the ledger has a flashing over it and the tyvek/housewrap comes down over that flashing and gets taped. there is no way water is getting behind the ledger, even if it did get past the metal, it wouldn't get past the ice/water shield membrane behind the ledger.
I know a guy with a metal shop near me, so I just bend up my own flashing most of the time.
How do you guys deal with where the deck board has to be fastened near the house and the flashing is there? If the decking is perpendicular to the house then it's easier you can put a joist a few inches away from the ledger and then no fastener is needed through the flashing on the ledger, if the decking is running the other way, then it's a little harder to do it.
I've noticed a huge difference in framing both treated and non-treated over the last year. more than normal.
we just framed an addition and the treated 2x12s were off, one was
11 3/4 and the rest were 11 3/8. guess which one I grabbed to do the stringer template. lol.
About the worst I have seen is 1/2" difference. Had some 2x8's where 12' boards were measuring 7 3/4" and some of the shorter length were measuring 7 1/4".
Was a huge pain in the rear since we were building a free standing deck with everything bearing on the beams and nothing hangered.
Framing lumber has always been different in height at least as long as I have been in the Trades that goes back to the sixties.
It's not that much different now 3/8 '' or more has always been standard and still is. P T lumber can start out that way and be way different after the water has gassed off 2x12 pt can start out 11 1/2'' and end up 11'' real easy.
S4S trim lumber is not that bad but its not perfect either. Back in my trim Carp life my boss had us run the red oak / ash thru the planer right after it landed in the Shop for the same reason.
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