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Attaching Gable Roof To Brick Exterior Wall

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Old 01-05-2019, 07:38 PM   #21
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Re: Attaching Gable Roof To Brick Exterior Wall

Originally Posted by Fouthgeneration View Post
Scissors Trusses? 2/12 under the 4/12? Eliminates the need for second story of center post?
Is it a four story house or walk out three story with a unknown depth of frost footing on the basement patio/French door?

Don't forget every story higher = lower production, higher equipment costs, are allowed a teleboom?

Surely the prints exist? or a per foot surcharge for surprises, don't forget any utilities that might be in the footing holes.

The Two center posts have much higher loads then the others, and the outer posts more then the house side columns.

RE: snow, that sounds good for Roof snow load, but won't there be simultaneous snow load on deck below?

So snow load deck + roof snow =total on columns under roof & deck.

An under deck roof to dry out the space in front of the walk out basement? More Party space in the big rain....lawn junk and patio furniture storage....

Elephant toe under grade forms maybe, probably cheaper to pour two pours, depending need for haste.
3 story walkout basement. Not sure how deep the foundation is.

There are never utilities in our backyards here. I always get Locates, and unless it's a row/townhouse complex, utilities are kept out of backyards. Besides, my contract outlines very detailed what is included and its stated that anything that comes up unexpected is extra. I make this very clear.

Your load calc questions are true, yes, and when the time arises I will address these with my designer.

Yes the entire deck will be getting Trex Rainescape waterproofing. That's part of the quote.

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Old 01-05-2019, 07:41 PM   #22
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Re: Attaching Gable Roof To Brick Exterior Wall

Originally Posted by Fouthgeneration View Post
As an Up sell, plan to enclose the roofed deck into either a three season room, or even a Four season day-Sun room.

To code insulation details and MEP provisions built in?

Your posted section shows NO beam at the house side of the deck, just the 'Rim' joist fastened to the brick and maybe framing?

The addition appears to partially bear on the old work, and self supporting in other loads, making it for me hard to determine load paths and sizing of members.

Can you get a Grave Plot heaters in there to start work before the frost melts?

I rather work on frost then in mud bogg.
The loads are directly posted down to the ground (footings). It's all right there...

Addition? Old work? You've lost me mate..

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Old 01-05-2019, 08:27 PM   #23

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Re: Attaching Gable Roof To Brick Exterior Wall

Originally Posted by heavy_d View Post
Would need to be quite large LVL as the span is 24'. I'm pretty well decided I'm going to quote it with rafter ties so I don't need a ridge beam.

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Based on my prior experience, I would say a 2 ply 16 or 18" would pretty much do it. We are currently doing a porch that has 3 transfer beams in the field. Total ridge span will be about 45'. Folks spent a fortune just on lvl's.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:14 PM   #24
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Re: Attaching Gable Roof To Brick Exterior Wall

My definitions: Old work, existing structure that isn't demoed to make way for new work = (The addition) everything You're adding to the pre-existing Building/Old work...

Awesome Re the back yard utilities, In flyover land, upscale homes hardly EVER have front yard utilities: it is thought a little cheesy, and most homes have one or utility easements in the back lot line or side lines...most homes with Siamese service runs with adjacent home to lower network costs.

Pre cheap excavating, Post-Korea era? many US builders ran all plumbing through the same ditch, with the un freezing gas line a higher layer, opposite side of where the water line was run...above the sanitary.....

REturning to OP, Looks like HO or "designer" wants to pick and choose from a buffet of designs that are build-able, with out actually having to pay for the majority of the design labor.....

I can't see any three competent bidders taking comparable paths: the bids won't be for the same scope of work...using the plans as they are now.

If you bid an out of code plan, will the HO and designer pay all the change orders the Building inspector and Money(If work is financed) require?

Take care to preserve your Intellectual Property you created developing a legal/build-able set of plans, don't share any of your Plans un till you hold a contract. Give them a $ bid with a well defined scope of work. Don't give away your hard work for free and a thanks for figuring all that out for my guy.......

Rains-cape looks good. Are you responsible for getting the water to the lot line/storm sewer?

I still see issues with the flashing of the metal roof not being installed all the way to the existing rain screen(tar paper/tyvek) and the dead ended cavities under the added flashing that now will need to be vented to Out-of Doors to release water vapour- such as behind the roof framing under the "New" through wall flashing.

Are you using 12" joist spacing due to Trex's lack of strength/stiffness?

Here one would have to have some sort of tie into the Homes existing wood floors, that wouldn't damage the brick when tightened, maybe compression sleeve on the all thread drilled through rim joists that is same length as the face of brick to face of framing...Or remove a few brick to get access to the wood framing at every floor wall tie.

Does the large opening already exist on the deck level? Will you have to add a lintel/header?

I'd definitely ask the decider / building inspector to see if your plans meet the areas code before sharing your estimate.

Set up your bid sheet so you can recycle as much of it as you can on the next one.


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