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Replacing Basement Drywall.

10K views 44 replies 16 participants last post by  TNTRenovate 
#1 ·
I looked at a basement job the other day.I guess she had a 9" of water in the basement.This happened back in October.She had a company come in right after and removed the drywall,insulation and part of the vapor barrior.It was dried out thoroughly and no signs of any moisture.I have to go back Fri and measure but i think its about 187 ln ft. 18"H.The lady said u dont have to put new plastic or insulation up.I don't agree with the way she wants it done.
I have done taping/mudding before.I'm ok at it but i try to put too much on.I plan on using blue or green board and paper tape.The board up there is 1/2 in.I can reach up and feel insulation and plastic.

I have a few questions some i know the answers to and some i don't.I cant go wrong by posting here and getting a few tips and pointers.
Insulation
1)what type?
2)paper/no paper?
Vapor barrier.
1)What mil do i use ?
2)Do i have to connect it to the old vapor barrier?It is kinda up there past where they cut the drywall.
3)Does it go on the face of the studs then the drywall?

Sheetrock
1)blue or green?
2)Do i just screw it to the studs or put shims behind it to make it level with the old stuff.

Mud.
I haven't had much luck with paper tape but i think it would be needed here
I was thinking of using ez sand 45 or 90.and giving it a few coats in one day.
I haven't used real plaster but i will if it is recommended by you folks.
I need something that i can sponge or very lightly sand.

Corner bead
On the corners i believe it is metal.They cut it up 19".
Do i but up the new corner bead with the old or overlap just a bit?

I feel like a real knob for even asking these questions.Like i said i know most of the answers but sometimes i feel insecure of my knowledge due to the fact that i don't do this every day.Mostly i do painting and handyman type of work.I have 2 plasterers that i would like to use but they are too busy.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,Rob.
 

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#2 ·
Honestly if you haven't done a whole lot of drywall repair a job this big isn't the time to start practicing. It takes a certain level of experience to match old and new and cannot be learned over a forum.

You could do all the prep work but hire someone to finish.
 
#3 ·
Insulation type is up to you as long as the R value is up to code in your area.
If the plastic is shoved up there a ways on your vapor barrier, I would skip the plastic and use a vapor barrier primer over the whole wall.
You shouldn't need to shim the studs, regular drywall will work fine.

I agree with TNT, if you have little experience with paper tape, then don't try it on your own unless it was your own house. Paper taping is too easy for a carpenter to screw up and can't be explained online. Hang your Sheetrock then hire an experienced drywall finisher for a day, let him mud tape, and texture then learn a few things.
 
#7 ·
I am going to a bit more blunt, if you feel the need to ask the questions you did, you are not nearly comfortable enough to do it. Also, if you are putting it on too thick, then something of this scale will cause you some major issues.
 
#10 ·
Rob, Just do it. Use mesh and 90 for your first coat. Bucket mud for the rest. Butt bead. Hang to studs. Keep board off floor at least 3/4''. Reg drywall.

Take your time. First day- Hang,mesh and first coat 90. Clean up and go home. Next trip, bucket mud, one coat go home. Next day same thing. Should be looking good by this point. Next day sand and touch up.....Ready for paint.

I don't deal with basements and vapor barriers here in Florida. If she wants you to skip that part I really can't help you with an answer.
 
#11 ·
this is my daily job. i work doing restoration rebuilding after floods and fires.
I would cut it up to 25" and do your best to not cut the vapour barrier.
i would figure out what the local code is for the insulation.
i'd use a 6mm vapour barrier and over lap and tape to the existing.
i've been to hundreds of flooded basements. i've been in basements where there was blue/green board. The stuff still gets moldy and anything with paper will mold. The only difference is if the place floods again(looks like its flooded before with the tape joint at the 18") the water will only wick up the drywall 6" and regular drywall will wick up 12". either way its going to get tore out again.
once the board is on prefill all the joints with easy sand. seeing is how its been tore out before there will be a build up of mud. So when prefilling load the crack up and skim the lower board a good 6" to flatten it out a bit.
Then use green lid taping mud and paper tape.
your going to have to skim out the wall 2-3times and your skim coat will be up to 2' wide using the easy sand will speed things up but doing atleast the final skim with a finish mud is recommended. seeing is how your skimming a painted surface you may want to prime the paint wall where your skim will be to avoid having bubbles in your mud.
I would cut your corner beads nicely. Then cut a small piece of bead and hammer it up inbehind the existing bead then cut your new bead and butt up to the existing so your sistering the beads together.
once the drywall work is complete prime about 4' up the wall then paint the entire wall with wall color
 
#12 ·
How dare you come here asking questions to help you do it right instead of just hacking the whole job?!!

I would do a exactly as you were just advised, except go to 24" for better material usage. That gap at the bottom will help prevent damage in future floods of smaller magnitude. I worked for ServPro for a while doing flood remediation and repair and I noticed that walls that had a decent gap were spared when the floor was soaked. You may also want to do a pvc coated baseboard for further insurance, just make sure you paint paint/seal anywhere you cut.

Good luck!
 
#13 ·
I agree with both of the last 2 posts here. I do restoration work for a large national type company as well, and would do the gap at the bottom, giving a "air gap" from the floor, mesh tape on the flat joints, paper tape in the corners, "hot mud", on the first coat, bucket mud on the last 2, and cut up 12" 16" OR 24" pending needed to work the materials to the best. As far as insulation, replace what was removed as needed, with the same. 2 coats of primer, then paint. We have found, and please don't ask me why, but 2 coats of primer seems to hide the patch better, for the roller type texture, etc., blends in better? That is what we do!
 
#14 ·
i said cut it at 25" to leave a 1" gap at the bottom so you are well above the concrete floor. you dont want to cut it at exactly 24". This way you can snap sheets in half. I dont remember mesh tape because you'll have to skim it wider because the mesh is thicker and there is alot higher chance of it cracking. and i have to disagree with 2 coats of primer. One generous coat is all you need. There isnt alot of color in primer so if you can still see thru it but it is sealed properly.
 
#16 ·
Gavin, calm down! I did not mean to poop in your WHEATIES! I just made a reply to what we do! We do 2 coats of primer, that is COMPANY policy here where I work! And as far as the 25" thing, please go back and read your message, then let me know where you stated about the 1" off the floor thing? It didn't appear on my computer screen! I was JUST trying to give a person my thoughts, and things seem to have went SOUTH! LOL
 
#18 ·
They make an ultra thin mesh tape that I Use in these situations.
I use 45 or 90 min hot mud to do a quick fill / cover. One coat of regular compound before leaving. If it is a small job - a second coat of the hot mud.
I agree that you should cut the boards in half - 24". Set them on a piece of 1X and use a multi tool to follow the new top edge. Wa-la nice tight joint.
Insulation and vapor barrier as above.
 
#20 ·
not getting upset or anything. my original post said cut to the wall 25" before installing the board. and i'm going to have to say mesh tape shouldnt be used on any joint. Only paper tape should be used. i've seen far to many jobs where the joints cracked. i've tried mesh and ill never use it again. Now as far as fibafuse i've never used it. Nobody here stocks it and it could be awesome i don't know
 
#21 ·
I know budget is always a factor but, considering that the HO has already had water damage they should be willing to spend a bit more for security.

For ideal basement installs that don't have a walk-out, and are thus able to flood to a greater depth, I would suggest a few things:
-check that the insulation/vapor barrier is correct before you copy it. If there isn't 2" rigid foam or spray foam on the foundation wall, it should be unfaced batts with 6 mil poly on the interior of the stud wall. When you patch it, make sure you tape the joint.
- Cut it back, as mentioned in earlier posts. Allowing for an even half-sheet makes sense as it gives you some room to work and cuts the number of snaps in half.
-Use DensArmor or another brand of fiberglass faced gypsum board for the new piece. It's pricey but it will have the same immunity to mold that the cbu will have and is easier to tape. It does need a skim coat as it has a rougher texture. Green board isn't any better than regular, it's a marketing gimmick.
- If the Densarmor isn't in the budget then install a strip of 1/2" EG ply to the bottom of the wall and hold it back 1/2" from the top of the baseboard and then start the drywall above that. It gives the HO a couple inches of breathing room in the event of another flood.
 
#22 ·
Gotta hate when you type a reply and lose it,so ill do a quickie.First off thanks for the replies.Many good suggestions.I was not completely honest when saying i am comfortable.I Have done this a few times with a few different guys over the years and it seems everyone does it different.I do good at the mud but struggle at times.Now i'm doing this on my own i am trying to learn different methods and the right way to do things.I may or may not have been taught the right way.I would rather look like azz here than to a customer,insurance adjuster or building inspector.
Back to the suggestions.I was also thinking of cutting it up to 25" like above mentioned.I know it will be tough to not cut the plastic underneath.I wonder if it would be better to use high tack spray glue instead of tape when joining the plastics.I did talk to a guy and he suggested i use Roxul insulation.That stuff seems good but a bit expensive and over kill.I would think when using that that you would still have to make sure the old plastic has a good seal.
I am meeting with a plasterer tomorrow and another one saturday.If their prices or scheduling don't work then i will do it all myself.I dont mind doing it and like the challenge.No matter what it will be done right and look the way it is supposed to.

Thanks again,Rob.
 
#24 ·
Fibafuse is great, but it's not the easiest to work with. Mesh is generally the easiest. I, too, have seen mesh jobs that failed. But no more than I have paper. You can screw up either one. But as long as your joints are clean (not even dusty much less loose rock or paint) and you push plenty of mud through it to fill any gaps it works great. I know several guys who won't use anything else for flat joints. And, yes, it will cause a hump. Any material will. You have to add enough mud over it to cover it, and enough mud out several inches (6 ish) in both directions to hide that hump.

Your first coat establishes the height of the fill. It does not have to be perfectly smooth. Don't spend forever trying to do the whole job on this step. Fill in as much as it will take to get the right level across 90% of the patch. A few low spots (that other 10%) are no big deal because you'll fill those in on the next pass. You don't want any mud from your first coat to be higher than your final level or you'll spend extra time taking it back off, especially with hot mud. (Easy Sand may be easier than whatever rock hard crap they made before that, but it is NOT easy to sand. Avoid needing to sand it at all.)

Your second coat is to fill in those small low spots, and to compensate for the shrinkage from the first coat drying. Your second coat should not shrink much, and should be smooth, but you're still laying down enough material that it is very difficult to get it perfect here. Those with very well established skills, who have a nearly intimate relationship with their knives, can pull this off in two coats. Plan on a third to fill in little imperfections (mostly bubbles and knife trails). Between coats run over all of it with a 6 inch (or so) knife to knock off the high spots that always appear here and there, and to clean off buildup on any corner beads.

This is a 3 day job for those who have done a lot of this. Don't rush it, but also don't make more work than you already have by making that first coat too high, or doing any coats without enough light (harsh, from the side) to see the texture.
 
#28 ·
I would just hang it the way it is. I've learned after all these yrs to just go with what the last guy left me.

Time spent re-cutting is time wasted getting it done. Example.......We all know electricians and plumbers are clueless on how to cut square holes...........Right :rolleyes:

:eek:fftopic: Maybe :whistling

I used to square everything up,take a bath in drywall dust and make a bigger mess. Now I just match their crooked ass holes. Pre-fill with quick set and then tape away.
 
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