Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box - Drywall - Contractor Talk

Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box

 
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Old 02-04-2020, 10:33 AM   #1
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Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


Will be installing 8' panels of 5/8" on vertical drops only, having no horizontal connectors - 4 parallel hangars alone. Box span is 6 ft. wide (length=20 ft.).

Going this way to preserve basement ceiling height in a frequented area.

Have had decent luck with setting compound (40 min) but would green lid be less likely to crack, my main concern here?
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Old 02-04-2020, 10:44 AM   #2
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


It probably will crack no matter which. Best shot at keeping it from cracking IMO is use durabond with 25% acrylic fortifier in the water.

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Old 02-15-2020, 05:53 AM   #3
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


Why would it crack?


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Old 02-15-2020, 11:16 AM   #4
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


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Why would it crack?
Sensitivity to span?

Lack of cross-wise support?
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:19 PM   #5
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


Quote:
Originally Posted by artinall View Post
Will be installing 8' panels of 5/8" on vertical drops only, having no horizontal connectors - 4 parallel hangars alone. Box span is 6 ft. wide (length=20 ft.).
Maybe I'm slow on the uptake, but what does this mean? Screwing edges only? Or the butt ends?? How wide is the screw placement?

Got pre-rock pics?

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Old 02-15-2020, 02:35 PM   #6
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


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Maybe I'm slow on the uptake, but what does this mean? Screwing edges only? Or the butt ends?? How wide is the screw placement?

Got pre-rock pics?
Guess I could have been clearer...

Just snapped a pic, if that helps (box will end right between pvc and copper lines)

Main ceiling section that I'm concerned about: I'm simply hanging long continuous support sections straight down from ceiling joists. They aren't attached to each another. With the widest single span at 21" (measured from closest wall pictured *) and having (2) others less than this. With the concern being side-to-side movement from these supports (floor above/deflection?). The bulk of the box however I think benefits from having that I-beam.

I'll run the wallboard shallows at a right angle to these parallel supports in approx. 6' total lengths. The box runs a distance of about 20ft. which I couldn't fit all in the same pic.

So the only butt joints should be on outer short wall that rises to the future t-bar ceiling of the main center area.

Am doing in this way to help preserve the ceiling height. Otherwise I'd frame it all out in studs.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
* As a "side-Q" - onto that I-Beam recess, which is hard to see but faces the existing wall, I like to fix on a lower stud support to do that second span at the mentioned 21" - otherwise it'll extend to 31" (look close and you can see that that duct takes a bend further out by the loop in the black wire). Any ideas on fastening directly to the I-beam?
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Old 02-15-2020, 02:50 PM   #7
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


I'm still a little confused, but wow are those some nice looking joists!
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Old 02-15-2020, 02:58 PM   #8
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


If you're talking boxing in the ductwork, and the span between the nailers is 21", you'll be fine. I did 24" with 1/2" over 12 years ago, and it's fine good, flat and solid. (I even sandwiched some foamseal between the board and duct to keep it from sucking any moisture.)

As for the rest, shim down the joists so the the board clears the copper.

I'd leave the PVC exposed, and maybe even paint it.

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Old 02-15-2020, 03:13 PM   #9
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Re: Green Lid Vs. Setting Compound - Large Soffit Box


Quote:
Originally Posted by Golden view View Post
I'm still a little confused, but wow are those some nice looking joists!
Exactly what I felt when I first laid eyes on them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkJames View Post
If you're talking boxing in the ductwork, and the span between the nailers is 21", you'll be fine. I did 24" with 1/2" over 12 years ago, and it's fine good, flat and solid. (I even sandwiched some foamseal between the board and duct to keep it from sucking any moisture.)

As for the rest, shim down the joists so the the board clears the copper. ...
But going direct on the joist will be tighter, less flex. You saying this to keep a minimum distance away from copper?

Stud will fit between the plastic and metal..

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