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Old 11-02-2018, 09:43 AM   #1
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Opinion


I have a thin stone job coming up soon. It's on an interior chimney that looks like it should be in California. Its smooth stucco and painted white.

My question is, cup grind it with one of those vaccuum attachments or screw and glue cement board on it?

It's like 20-22 feet tall and around 600 sqft.
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:49 AM   #2
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Re: Opinion


IMHO,the cement board reduces the chances of a problem down the line.As in the installation of most materials they are only as good as the substrate they go over.

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Old 11-02-2018, 10:58 AM   #3
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Re: Opinion


Instead of cement board Is it possible to screw wire lath over It with a scratch coat?


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Old 11-02-2018, 11:50 AM   #4
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Re: Opinion


Sure I can do that as well
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:22 PM   #5
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Re: Opinion


I'm with windy...
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:06 PM   #6
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Re: Opinion


Hardi backer is faster, easier, and cheaper.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:32 PM   #7
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Re: Opinion


Lath is cheaper than hardie board and quicker to install...masonry stubs are cheaper than tapcons and as well, quicker to install. There's the scratch coat to consider, but being interior doesn't require a substantial base over lath...none at all actually...just lick'em and stick'em.
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:30 PM   #8
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Re: Opinion


I'm still sticking with the cement board. The stub nails and lath may be great over bare block,but not be long enough to get a solid bite through the stucco??
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:11 PM   #9
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Re: Opinion


Quote:
Originally Posted by fjn View Post
I'm still sticking with the cement board. The stub nails and lath may be great over bare block,but not be long enough to get a solid bite through the stucco??
I get stubs from 3/8" to 3"... mute point
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Old 11-03-2018, 06:11 AM   #10
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Re: Opinion


Quote:
Originally Posted by fjn View Post
I'm still sticking with the cement board. The stub nails and lath may be great over bare block,but not be long enough to get a solid bite through the stucco??


How are you going to anchor the cement board to the wall?


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Old 11-03-2018, 06:12 AM   #11
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Re: Opinion


Quote:
Originally Posted by superseal View Post
I'm with windy...


Thatís a pretty neat little magnetic nail holder thingy


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Old 11-03-2018, 10:46 AM   #12
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Re: Opinion


Quote:
Originally Posted by Windycity View Post
How are you going to anchor the cement board to the wall?


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I usually go tapcon with washer
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:49 AM   #13
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Re: Opinion


Quote:
Originally Posted by Windycity View Post
Instead of cement board Is it possible to screw wire lath over It with a scratch coat?


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You really find out what works when you have takin a couple chimneys down.
The old wire method is a huge pita to take apart. It works well .
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Old 11-03-2018, 03:47 PM   #14
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Re: Opinion


Quote:
Originally Posted by cedarboarder View Post
You really find out what works when you have takin a couple chimneys down.

The old wire method is a huge pita to take apart. It works well .


You can say that again, thatís the most miserable thing tearing down a wall with that wire in it


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Old 11-03-2018, 10:33 PM   #15
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Re: Opinion


If its bone dry/interior work, I use TAPERED masonry nails with a stucco washer after hammer drilling a partial pilot hole, far cheaper then tapcons, no screwing around.... make sure the nail heads aren't too proud and waste scratch coat mortar.

you can use screws on the first few fasteners...

Make sure you hang the mesh the right direction with the spacing dimples to the old work.

If it is Real thin veneer stone, make sure the units are CLEAN of all saw dust and BONE dry, some units still might need anchors, especially the corners.
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Last edited by Fouthgeneration; 11-03-2018 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 11-04-2018, 05:09 PM   #16
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Re: Opinion


Quote:
Originally Posted by Windycity View Post
How are you going to anchor the cement board to the wall?


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First have to identify the backing,wood or masonry. If wood,screws,if block,tapcons
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:10 PM   #17
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Re: Opinion


If the Stucco/plaster is sound and the paint well bonded, you might consider adhering the NVT stone with adhesive products to the existing, and grouting the joints if required with bagged delivered mortar.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:01 PM   #18
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Re: Opinion


The paint is like the day it was put on....I'm wondering if I rolled on https://laticrete.com/masonry-veneer...-water-barrier couldn't I stick on the rocks after.

My paranoia says no, but I'm missing the science part...
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:16 PM   #19
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Re: Opinion


Use Em-Cryl600

Em-Cryl 600
Acrylic Latex Fortifier
For Cement and Gypsum Mixes
Interior and Exterior Use


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Empire Blended Products, Inc.
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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:

EM-CRYL 600 is a non-reemulsifiable, architectural grade, modified acrylic latex admix for Portland cement and gypsum based mixes. EM-CRYL 600 has been formulated to enhance performance by improving the strength, flexibility, adhesion, water resistance and curing properties when added to mixes.

USES:
EM-CRYL 600 is the gauging liquid for EMPIRE BLENDED FLOOR ALL and the bonding liquid for EMPIRE BLENDED SEAL MASONRY COATING when applied over dense or previously painted concrete or masonry. It is used in many other EMPIRE BLENDED products such as SURFACE BONDING CEMENT, FOUNDATION COAT and THIN SET, as well as in:

Repointing mortars
Bedding mortars for tile, brick, flagstone, etc.
Pool, pipe and tank lining
Stucco, thin set and terrazzo
Thin overlays to patch, level, and resurface existing floors and walls
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:45 PM   #20
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Re: Opinion


Probably can do more than one easier method. I always go back to, if you think a Good Mason is expensive, hire a bad one. I'm essentially terrified not to do the best I can, always lol, first world problems...

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