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-   -   Installing veneer stone work on a metal building (https://www.contractortalk.com/f48/installing-veneer-stone-work-metal-building-262626/)

Jethroe 03-09-2016 08:17 AM

Installing veneer stone work on a metal building
 
Any masons ever had to cut the metal siding back on a steel building to install dry stack or veneer stone work? We are bidding this project to install the veneer stone wainscot on the front of this metal building the cuts will have to be straight and precise across the siding and a stone ledger put under the metal as sort of a huge chair rail or ledge as well.
Any way I look at it the cuts wont be easy as we will have to have the siding removed 3 -4' up in order to install the plywood substrate for the stone work to be stacked up the where we cut out for the wainscot.

This project would be a piece of cake if it weren't for removing the siding. My question would be how you would go about cutting the metal siding straight horizontally while the panels are attached to the building. I was going to use a Makita metal cutting saw and take my time cutting it. :wallbash:

Here is a google maps link as to what the front of the building looks like

https://goo.gl/maps/tn9Tg6EDemo

Any suggestions or experience at this would help thanks! :cowboy:

Windycity 03-09-2016 03:47 PM

Guessing it wouldn't be that bad...i would mark a straight line where the cut is and use a grinder with an abrasive disc...im guessing it would cut like butter

dom-mas 03-09-2016 05:19 PM

yup, what he said. Dont forget to slip some flashing in there between the sill and the siding

Tom Struble 03-10-2016 05:42 AM

thing is most panel manufactures don't want you using a cutoff wheel..

JBM 03-10-2016 06:09 AM

What would you do where the plywood meets the metal, how would that be sealed?

dom-mas 03-10-2016 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble (Post 4452850)
thing is most panel manufactures don't want you using a cutoff wheel..

Why? Bubbles the paint? Blues the metal?

MarkJames 03-10-2016 07:30 AM

Seems like a shame to cut the metal at all. Why not apply the backer right to the steel with some sort of isolation membrane in between?

Jethroe 03-10-2016 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkJames (Post 4453058)
Why not apply the backer right to the steel with some sort of isolation membrane in between?

We discussed that with the rep. who also says we need to cut it back, but there are too many factors involved and this will be laying the stone work up to the ledger and cutting everything in round windows ac and power lines etc.
It has to be cut back..

materials we are proposing to use.

https://www.provia.com/


Jethroe 03-10-2016 08:18 AM

Flashing... The metal gets cut back and the walls furred out with the plywood and then the walls prepped according to the mfg. specs then you flash behind the metal and at the base of the wall as well.
the flashing behind the metal siding would have to extend out onto the ledger to prevent water penetration.

dom-mas 03-10-2016 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jethroe (Post 4453242)
Flashing... The metal gets cut back and the walls furred out with the plywood and then the walls prepped according to the mfg. specs then you flash behind the metal and at the base of the wall as well.
the flashing behind the metal siding would have to extend out onto the ledger to prevent water penetration.

yes, except I would flash behind the metal before the wall gets furred out

Tinstaafl 03-10-2016 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dom-mas (Post 4452970)
Why? Bubbles the paint? Blues the metal?

Yes and yes. Plus, the flying shrapnel gets embedded in the paint and turns into a bunch of little rust spots. Having said that, I've done it. :whistling

Any way you go about cutting it, that edge should be painted/sealed, or it will rust down the road.

JBM 03-10-2016 11:15 AM

IS there some sort of pre fab cap piece that goes on the bottom in the even the metal terminates? I would assume that would be above the top of the stone?

jlhaslip 03-10-2016 01:46 PM

Can the full sheets be removed and cut the top of the sheets then re-install?

Jethroe 03-10-2016 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBM (Post 4454106)
IS there some sort of pre fab cap piece that goes on the bottom in the even the metal terminates? I would assume that would be above the top of the stone?

yes a piece of J trim will be on that part...

jomama 03-11-2016 01:02 PM

I would try to rent something like this for ribbed steel, and mount a 2x4 under the cut to use as a fence.

https://www.zoro.com/milwaukee-nibbl...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Donohue Const 03-11-2016 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlhaslip (Post 4454490)
Can the full sheets be removed and cut the top of the sheets then re-install?

This is the best way to do it if you can get the screw holes back in the right spots

Do not cut it with a blade!

How tall is the side wall steel now?

If you remove, cut and replace maybe just as easy to order tin the length you need?

But, I don't know how large of an area you are doing either

Fouthgeneration 03-13-2016 05:48 PM

A "Cold" metal saw blade and saw..... Or maybe wet saw with abrasive blade? to reduce heat damage.

Prime and paint cut edge, bury in caulk, hide in perforated j channel.

Maybe 'tin' the entire top of the sill stone to a drip edge to keep most of t he rust off the stone work.

Otherwise the cut edge is staining the Faux Stone


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