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Saw blade guide

9K views 33 replies 13 participants last post by  EricBrancard 
#1 ·
I have read several threads that sporadically discuss saw blades, and what you use, and what you use it for but I think we need a dedicated thread for this. Maybe also a guide to the types of blades and what they are best for, speed to cut at etc.

Hopefully Justin can chime in, he seems to know a thing or two.
 
#2 ·
Paging Tom and Justin....
I'd be curious to hear other's experience as well. Especially blades I have little knowledge of or haven't heard much about like melamine blades for circular saw, some of these new demolition blades, fiber cement blades, and ferrous metal dry cut blades.
 
#3 ·
We use the Bosch CB714NC 7-1/4-Inch 14 Tooth for demo.

First project was a double layer roof with 1/2" ply. Cut it into sections no problem and doesn;t shoot crap at you the whole time.

Blade has done a few jobs and is still kicking.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I buy blades based on their specs. A quick look the angles will give you a pretty good idea how it will cut. I tend to go with blades that have pretty conservative and fairly traditional geometry. There are manufacturers that use some pretty acute geometry on blades to give a mirror finish on a cut. The higher the top grind and the more shear angles the cleaner it will cut, but it will run hot and dull quickly. I define a clean cut as no tearout or chipping. Anything more is just mill glaze. There are certain manufacturers that I go to first when buying. They have better and more carbide, higher quality plates and better plate tension. There are other manufacturers that I don't even consider.

On a 12" miter saw for running wood trim I'm looking for a standard kerf ATB blade with a 20* top grind, a tooth count of 80 or 100, and a negative hook. A 20* top grind is a good balance between cut quality and durability. The negative hook tends to push material down and back towards the fence. It's going to require a slower feed rate and generate more heat but I feel like I have a lot more control. Negative hooks are highly recommended in an SCMS. Tooth count depends on what I'm cutting, what the required finish is, and what saw I'm using. On a 10" SCMS for raw wood I usually run a 60t, 80t for stain grade or prefinished. On a 12" scms I rarely go over 80t. In my 716 I usually have a 100t but that's as much about the stability of those blades as the tooth count. I switch to a TCG blade for mdf. If I'm cutting a mix of wood and more abrasive materials I switch to a cheaper ATB blade. I often switch to H-ATB for prefinished. It's pretty common for the finisher to over build the finish on prefinished mouldings and it tends to chip when cut. The higher top angles minimize it.

I get lazy with table saw blades and usually have a 40t GP in both my field and shop saws. They have a 10* top grind and a 10* hook. If I need to rip volume I switch blades to a FTG rip or a glue line blade. For ply I use either a 60 or 80t ATB. When the veneer is tear out prone I switch to an H-ATB. For mdf I use a 60t TCG.

Everyone will have their preferences and expect something a little different. I know a guy that cuts a mix of odd stuff and leaves a NF blade on his miter saw at all times. He doesn't want to change blades all the time and doesn't rely on the saw for a perfect finish cut. It works for him.
 
#7 · (Edited)
KISS...

Most manufacturing blade packs have what the blade will effectively cut and it's limitations already listed on the packaging... while generically you use guides to understand it better, stick with the manufacturers listing on the package of the blade you're going to purchase as some manufacture an 80-tooth blade (for example) differently and can handle different materials based on relief-cuts, teeth angle/configuration, quality, etc...

Better off sticking with what the manufacturer says are it's applications and/or limitations IMHO...
 
#9 ·
With many manufacturers I will agree. Their recommendations are a good place to start. They will give you an accurate guide for the materials cut, resulting finish, and the tool to run it on. I can go onto Amana's, FS Tool's, Everlast's, or Royce Ayr's websites and find reliable info as to the applications of a blade. There will be a drawing of the blade's basic geometry, plate/ kerf specs, and a listing of tools it's designed to be run on.

Some aren't as accurate with their assessments. It's pretty common to see a blades with high positive hook angles listed for both a table saw and a SCMS on the package as tools it is appropriate for, a high tooth count blade TCG blade being listed as both for aluminum and "fine finish carpentry", or blades with 40t and an H-ATB grind listed as suitable for ripping/cross cutting ply, cutting melamine and ripping wood for a table saw and a miter saw. A basic understanding of the geometry of blades and their applications tells one that this info is not correct. It's why I stick to certain manufacturers and discount others. It's also why regardless of manufacturer I still check the blade's specs and geometry.

Sharpeners can be good resources for info on tooling. While all sharpeners aren't created equal they're a good place to start. Try to talk to the guys that actually do the grinding. They are often a wealth of information and can save you a lot of time and money with their recommendations.
 
#16 ·
Can anyone chime in to help?

I'm looking to pick up a few new blades.

I was looking at the FS Tool LM4250 (60T) or LM6250 (80T) for my 10" miter saw. This will exclusively be used for trim. 80% Paint grade millworks, the remainder would be pre finished cabinet moldings. Blade is 20* ATBR 4&1, standard kerf. Should I go with 60 or 80T? Logic tells me 80T will be a cleaner cut, but I've never compared for confirmation. Also is the XL4000 a better blade? I know it has better carbide for longer service, but does it cut better?

Also looking for a suggestion for my DW7480 table saw. It will mostly be ripping down cabinet filler strips, jamb extensions, trim boards so clean chip free cuts are important. I've been using 80T diablos with success, but the current blade is wearing out and figured I should re-blade all my saws.
 
#18 ·
If you're only getting one of the miter blades based on the prefin cab mouldings the 6250. Both will cut cleanly in paint grade and unfinished stain grade but the higher count is better on finishes particularly the tinted CV or lacquers . I run a Royce Ayr 60t in my 10" scms for most things but for prefin I put on the LM6250.

There is no difference in cut quality between the LM and the SM XL4000 blades. I don't notice a stability difference in the plate tension. It's basically edge life. The binders on the XL blades resist corrosion from build up better and the edge holds up longer. I buy the SM blades for commonly used blades and for less common I go with the standard LM. I use a 12" fixed miter saw for most things and typically run a SM6300. The edge life to me is worth the $20-$30 price difference.

On site I run a DW745 table saw. I usually have an FS Tool LO3250 40t on it and I use it for all the applications you mentioned. It gives clean top and bottom cuts with minor edge saw marks. I am not nice to these blades and they hold up to heavy use very well. I don't expect a perfect edge off a site saw and always figure on dressing a cut edge with either a sander or an edge plane or plan my cuts so that the cut edge isn't visible. I have other blades for prefin ply rips and others for mdf.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I'm open to getting multiple blades, if that's the best option.

It doesn't seem that FS offers a 60T XL miter blade, only 80T. Is there a comparable/better option for the 60T option? If $30 gives me a longer lasting blade, with no compromise, it makes sense to get it.

For that matter, if there's a better blade than the FS products, I'm open to looking into them as well. My buddy ran forrest and FS and said he liked the FS better so that's where I started looking.
 
#20 ·
They only offer the premium XL4000 blades for certain popular applications at certain tooth counts. The ones I run at the 12" diameter are designed for commercial art framing. You won't have problems with the 80t SM6250 in any of your applications.

FS Tool is one of the top of the line tooling companies. It's hard to go wrong buying their product. Royce Ayr and Everlast are another two companies that I've been happy with but FS is usually easier to come by. You're buddy is right. I find the FS blades out perform the Forrest Chopmaster in both edge life and stability. More conservative grind and better tension under load.
 
#21 ·
Finally had a chance to go and visit one of the more renowned sharpeners in the area. They deal mainly in FS Tool (had the largest selection of router bits I'd ever seen), but also manufacture their own brand, very similar to FS.
Picked up some specialty blades that I haven't been able to find locally and a new Bosch carbide multi-tool blade. Everything was significantly less expensive than online or local specialty shops, will definitely be buying from them again.
Thanks for all the advice in this thread, I felt a little more informed when talking to them.

1. Gerneral table saw blade: Goldsmith 10" GS03250 40T ATB (very similar to fs tool LO3250). Replacing the Forrest WW2 as my all around table saw blade.

2. United Abrasives 6-1/2" Thin steel blade #77921 48T ATB. Supposed to be very good for steel roofing because it has an ATB instead of TCG to give a cleaner cut on thin sheet metal) Less expensive than Freud D0648F (TCG) and a lot less expensive than Milwaukee 48-40-4015.
3. Freud LU96R006M20 160mm Thin Kerf Rip Saw Blade for track saw. Just wanted a beater blade for the track saw and this was less expensive than any of the festool ones.
4. Bosch OSC114C 1-1/4-Inch Multi-Tool Carbide Tooth Plunge Cut Blade. Just wanted to try it, no pressing need, but was half price from online and they said they could resharpen them...interesting idea, doubtful it's worth it

 
#24 ·
No. They do not. I'd be very surprised if they ever decided to make one.

They have blades for Euro saws with a 30mm bore but not a miter blade. You can have them bored but every blade I run at a 10" diameter of theirs are heavier than what the Festool saw is designed to run. Based on the number of toasted motor or fried armature stories I've heard about the Kapex I'm not sure I'd try my luck.
 
#33 ·
Not intentionally.

Mike's point is valid, You basically spend between $140 and $160 dollars for a blade that is no better than a Freud Industrial. Midgrade...maybe.

At those prices you are getting into the range of some pretty good actual industrial blades. For $150 you can get a FS SM6250. One of their XL4000 line and a damn good blade. For around $100 you can get a 60t Royce Proline that is also damn good. I have no problem paying for these because I know I am getting value in performance and life. Spending that kind of money on something comparable to a Freud seems a little nuts.
 
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