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Cutting new window into exsisting foundation

6K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  Windycity 
#1 ·
I just had a look at a job to install a window in a foundation wall. A painter I know just finished work in the customers upstairs and she had asked him about doing this window in the basement to add a bit of light to the rec room down there. Him and I just had a look at it and looks feesible but before I speak with the homeowner or start the permitting process I was hoping to get some insights and experience here.

I've enlarged a few basements windows in older basements in the past, cutting the foundation down to fit an egress window but haven't installed a new one before.

House is one story with brick veneer sitting on steel angle outside, the floor joists run perpidicular to the wall to be cut, so they are bearing on the sill plate above the proposed opening. Foundation is typical 8" poured. Grade is about 12" down from siding and the window would be cut in roughly 12" to 16" down. Steel window well, crushed rock with drain tied into permiter drains. I'd like to keep the window width under 1.2M (BC Building Code) which is 3'-11 1/4" which should avoid engineering on it, though I'm leaning towards talking to one before I start the permitting process.

I would likely hire a company to cut the concrete unless I can find a concrete chainsaw to rent, which I couldnt on the last window I enlarged. I'll handle the remainder of the job.

My biggest concern is supporting the floor/walls/brick above the opening, which will probably cutting in a steel lintel, though I'm unfamiliar with this which is why I may speak to an engineer.

I'm sure lots of guys here have experience with this so would be interested to hear any advice or see any pics of examples. I unfortanatly did not take any pictures on the quick visit today but if I do proceed with this job I will be meeting with the homeowner next week most likely.
 
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#5 ·
Met with the customer today to have a look at this job. The proposed basement egress window would be centered on the section of brick veneer in the middle. I didn't include any interior pics as it's just a wall and t bar ceiling. The joists land on that exterior wall and are 2x12, 12'-2" span.


Also if any mods see this amd think it should be moved to masonary that would be great. Otherwise I think I've answered all my questions but still interested to hear any input from others :thumbup:
 

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#6 ·
I've done a bunch of those. Always had them engineered. Sometimes hanger the existing joists and/or double up the rim. Sometimes had to put in a header of some sort under the rim. Sometimes had to upgrade the lintel for the brick.



I don't recommend a concrete chainsaw for cutting out egress windows. I used to own one, and they are not easy to be accurate with, plus the chains are expensive.


Last egress window I did, I used a cut-n-break saw. That was a sweet saw and I would buy one if I were to get back into egress windows.
 
#12 ·
I don't recommend a concrete chainsaw for cutting out egress windows. I used to own one, and they are not easy to be accurate with, plus the chains are expensive.


Last egress window I did, I used a cut-n-break saw. That was a sweet saw and I would buy one if I were to get back into egress windows.


I agree, I own a cut and break and have used the chain saws before. The cut and break his hands down a much better saw set up




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#7 ·
Hey thanks for the reply Lettusbee, I did speak to an engineer today and if the job moves forwards I will be involving him for sure.

I was thinking about the logistics of doubling or tripling the rim to act as a flush beam over the window but I dont know how I could get anything in there short of cutting the joists back quite a ways and sistering new ones in?

Also found a company locally to cut the concrete as I can see it being a royal PITA to do myself and likely not a quality job or cost effective.

I havent heard of a cut and break saw, I'm going to look at them now. Realistically I think I'll leave the cutting to the pros on this one and any future jobs.
 
#11 ·
I've been lucky with the doubling up the rim, having been able to access from outside. You can also do a header under the rim and plate.
Adding a layer of steel in between a two ply header can reduce header depth. A good engineer can help with creative solutions. We've also integrated Angle Iron in creative ways to support the loads from above.

Another factor to keep in mind. Why do they want the egress window?
Do they want a big 4/0 4/0 for the daylight? Or do they just want a window that meets code for egress? If all they want to do is meet code, then a 30" wide casement will provide the net square footage with minimum width requirements. In our jurisdiction, we only have to hit 5 sf for a retrofit with a 24" minimum width in the clear.

so a 30" x 54" casement would usually do the trick, being you get it down low enough to hit the sill height requirement.

It's a lot easier to bear the load of a 32" R.O. than a 50" R.O.

Don't know what your egress requirements are in B.C. though.
 
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