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Window Trim Install

 
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:22 PM   #1
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Window Trim Install


Installing 5/4 x 4 primed cedar FJ around Anderson windows. I like to remove about an 1/8" x 1 5/8" all the way so the trim sits flat against the sheathing and not the window nail flange.

Usually, I rip the trim on edge through the saw with a wide kerf blade. That gives me the rabbit all the way without a secondary cut needed. I like to also rip a 5 degree in the short edge so the trim sits perfectly against the window. Anderson makes a solid product but the side of the window turns into the flange on a sweeping curve, not a 90 so without the 5 degree rip the trim won't get closer than 3/16"...not acceptable.

My question is does anyone have a more efficient way of rabbitting the stock? Considering a longer flute on my router but don't want to burn out the motor (50 boards at 20' long). I don't currently own a router table as well, will buy one if a solid idea calls for it as I've rabbitted trim for yrs.

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Last edited by MattK; 05-07-2013 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:21 PM   #2
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Re: Window Trim Install


Shim out the trim rather than rabbet. Pin nailer works great for this.

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Old 05-07-2013, 07:33 PM   #3
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Re: Window Trim Install


FJ outside?

I usually install concrete siding and trim if not stucco with stucco trim. When using Hardie, I rip down some siding to shim the trim out proud of the siding, cut the siding against the trim. Looks better to me.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:43 PM   #4
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Re: Window Trim Install


I've shimmed in the past, maybe I'll mess with that idea again. It takes a long time to rabbit all this stock so I figured the router might be an alternative...having trouble finding the bit online too.

Up here, FJ is very common for exterior in pine and cedar.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:45 PM   #5
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Re: Window Trim Install


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Originally Posted by MattK View Post
I've shimmed in the past, maybe I'll mess with that idea again. It takes a long time to rabbit all this stock so I figured the router might be an alternative...having trouble finding the bit online too.

Up here, FJ is very common for exterior in pine and cedar.
Rabbiting probably looks good, I just like the way the the trim looks proud of the siding.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:57 PM   #6
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Re: Window Trim Install


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Rabbiting probably looks good, I just like the way the the trim looks proud of the siding.
Agreed. I push for the 5/4 so it projects a good distance. I like that look as well. With the rabbitted trim sitting flat against the sheathing, the trim will stick out approx 1/4" to 3/8" past the white cedar siding.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:02 PM   #7
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Re: Window Trim Install


I prefer the rabbitedpocket to shims as well. If it was 3/4"' shims would be the way to go so it stands proud of the clap board. I've done and do both methods - table saw and router. If you can do the rabbit in one pass on the table saw, I don't see how any efficiency can really be gained.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:12 PM   #8
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Re: Window Trim Install


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I prefer the rabbitedpocket to shims as well. If it was 3/4"' shims would be the way to go so it stands proud of the clap board. I've done and do both methods - table saw and router. If you can do the rabbit in one pass on the table saw, I don't see how any efficiency can really be gained.
Ideally, I would like to rabbit all 50 - 20' boards, than bevel all 50 as well. Doing with a table saw sometimes requires a 2nd guy as well as 40+' of work area. I pictured me stacking a half dozen on the bench, one pass and time to stack um, another half dozen up. I think what I need to do is get a 5/8" diameter flush bit 1 5/8" long and change out the bearing to 1/4" so I'll have 3/16" on each side hanging over the bearing. Then I can set the depth and go.

When looking for this bit, it seems all bearings are the equal width to the diameter of the shank. Hadn't thought of downsizing the bearing to create the bit for this specific application. Of course, this all works out great at my laptop!
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:17 PM   #9
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Re: Window Trim Install


Just so we're on the same page, the rabbit is on the inside(window edge of the trim, not siding edge of the trim). Just realized I typed "siding" instead of "sheathing" in OP. Sorry for any confusion.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:27 PM   #10
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Re: Window Trim Install


Just use longer nails and more caulk....
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:01 PM   #11
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Re: Window Trim Install


think about using a drainable matrix like strips of Cedar Breather

shim and drainage all in one

http://www.benjaminobdyke.com/visito.../cedarBreather
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:46 PM   #12
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Re: Window Trim Install


Just did some Anderson casements with S4S FJ cedar 2x4 trim. We ended up shimming the corners out, or held them off with mini prys while hand driving 10d's. I suggested the same exact thing OP said, however boss man didn't want to spend the extra time cutting the rabbet or even a back bevel.

If I were running miles off this stuff, I would setup a sacrificial fence (1x something) on the table saw with a stack dado and feather boards. One time setup and plow it all through.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:19 PM   #13
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Re: Window Trim Install


I don't think I could get FJ cedar if I wanted to. The only FJ stuff I see nowadays is the casing on prehung exterior doors. Never glued and they always fall apart as you install them.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:26 PM   #14
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Re: Window Trim Install


Pocket screws,finish nails ,no rabbit
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:52 PM   #15
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Re: Window Trim Install


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Struble View Post
think about using a drainable matrix like strips of Cedar Breather

shim and drainage all in one

http://www.benjaminobdyke.com/visito.../cedarBreather
Good idea. Are you ripping the strips with straight edge and utility knife or is there a better way?
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:25 AM   #16
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Re: Window Trim Install


I have only seen it being used that way,Jason Whipple did a project in upstate N.Y.he let me help with where all the trim and siding was ventilated..not sure how it was cut
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:14 AM   #17
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Re: Window Trim Install


I think were talking about two different things here . The way I read it was the OP was talking about cutting a kerf in the back side of the window trim so it would sit flush against the sheating . Without kerfing the trim the window nailing flange would keep the trim from sitting flush . I also kerf the trim with a table saw , much faster than using a router table . The only thing I don't like about it is that you either have to paint , prime or seal the wood before installing . Gotta love pvc trim .
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:19 AM   #18
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Re: Window Trim Install


yea well..shimming accomplishes the same thing..right?
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:57 AM   #19
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Re: Window Trim Install


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yea well..shimming accomplishes the same thing..right?
Yes, if you're only talking about how it looks and functions.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:01 AM   #20
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Re: Window Trim Install


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yea well..shimming accomplishes the same thing..right?
Yea just takes longer .

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