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-   -   need some wood siding advice (https://www.contractortalk.com/f33/need-some-wood-siding-advice-119506/)

Spike7 06-22-2012 09:42 PM

need some wood siding advice
 
taking on a horizontal wood siding job( cedar , 8 inch siding that is aprox 1/2 inch and tapers to a point
not experienced at it
the house is wood framed
it has existing siding on some of the walls
other walls have been repaired( termite , and water damage) by others . they covered the outside plywood with tar-paper. i`m sure its wrong , they used 30 lb roof tar-paper it doesn`t lay perfectly flat on some sections.
anything specific when i start that first run?
do i lay out chalk lines at specific dimensions?
what nails is best
i have framing guns and roofing guns. i just don`t known whats best. i`m assuming i have to set the air pressure pretty low
i believe we have all the right tools( mitersaws , table saw , compressors, etc.)
i`ve already framed out the corners , and around all the windows and doorways with 2x4 rough-cedar

also there are a few sides of the house that have exsiting siding on only the top part of the wall( they opwner doesn`t want to remove it , and pay for all new .
so i`m going to running my new siding up the wall , and will have to slide my last new piece under the existing section .
i guess i surface nail these?
is there a specific nail that is best?
galvanized o.k with cedar?

roughly how many squares can 2 good carpenters install in a day
its a one story house.not too much landscaping in the way. easy access to all sides , electric on all sides of the house
i`m thinking having myself , my carpenter , and a helper .
two can install while one cuts
not sure how to price it . i know my day rate , i just don`t know how quickly this stuff goes on.
the house is probably 4000 square feet , and we have aprox 2000 squar feet to install
i can figure a way to do it on my own .
but some of you guys do this all the time
we don`t do it much in south florida
i just don`t want to lose time learning.
the homeowners a good client , and he like a good product , and doesn`t mind paying a fair wage

knucklehead 06-22-2012 09:59 PM

You need to just stand back and look at it and guess how long it is gonna take you to do it with the help you have.

donerightwyo 06-22-2012 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knucklehead (Post 1521308)
You need to just stand back and look at it and guess how long it is gonna take you to do it with the help you have.

Yep, then suck it up and work that last week for free till its done.:thumbup:

VAviaCo 06-22-2012 11:29 PM

galvanized 8d. Or 7. Set the pressure so low they don't set and drive the last 1/2" with a hammer, then up the pressure a little at a time. It's a mess when they blow through.
Pull down from the existing you have to hit, figure your reveal to match existing unless that material isn't the same.
I think you surface nail all of them. That little taper is going to split too easily.
Shim out the bottom of the first run with rips of ply or some warped cedar you can't use anywhere else.
May have to pre-drill the end nails if it is really 1/2" thick. Cedar splits easily.
I don't run cedar all day every day but I have hung it.
As far as timing, all I can say is it goes pretty well once you get rolling. No help at all. I haven't done enough to have a sq ft/ hr figure and most of what I did was as an hourly employee worried only about when break was, not the bottom line.

Tom Struble 06-23-2012 07:09 AM

3 Attachment(s)
coastal areas need stainless,nails should be high enough to just clear the board underneath and in to studs,weather cut and position all seams on studs and seal all cuts
siding should be back primed or sealed before install
consider a rainscreen or a drainable matrix or house wrap
install drip caps/kickouts

i chalk lines directly on the siding using blue or white and pull the panel to just cover the line

personally on average i will install about 200 sqft plus trim a day

Spike7 06-23-2012 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donerightwyo (Post 1521319)
Yep, then suck it up and work that last week for free till its done.:thumbup:

lol i`ve done that before . thanks
i`m figuring i`ll tell the guy to let us run a days worth at my day-rate , than let him know from there . he trusts me
i`m pushing him to just let uas do it by the day( i already have worked on this house for about a month " t and m"
my carpenter and i flow pretty good together , and we move a decent pace.
thanks for the install-tips TOM
it helps

never even though about sealing or priming the back first . great tip
the sidings going to be painted when done

i never like the idea of painting cedar .
i`ve repalce so much rotted cedar facia , and exposed beams
it seems to go against the theory of it
its supposed to breathe isn`t it.
if painted or sealed, i always believed it would keep the moisture contained . then the nails sweat , and dampen with the changing of temperature , and thats where it rots out first .
its so humid in south florida, seems like it would hold up better bare, so it can air out
am i wrong

katoman 06-23-2012 11:19 AM

Tom pretty much nailed it. I would not paint, but rather a solid stain. Also do the back and end cuts.

Here's a link for install - http://www.wrcla.org/pdf/WRCLA_Installing_Siding.pdf

Here's a link for the best siding on the market -http://www.gemthanesiding.com/

There are also a couple of companies that sell pre-stained siding. Actually a better option than doing it yourself. And cheaper for the client.

Tom Struble 06-23-2012 11:39 AM

pre priming more about ''equalizing'' front to back moisture,from what i understand u.v exposure [for as little as 2 weeks] to raw wood before painting is one of the main reason for paint failure

pre primed solves that issue also

WarnerConstInc. 06-23-2012 11:43 AM

I like using Maze cedar box nails for wood siding. Them ring shanks hold like a mutha.

katoman 06-23-2012 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. (Post 1521671)
I like using Maze cedar box nails for wood siding. Them ring shanks hold like a mutha.

They also make the ring shank nails in stainless. I forget right now, but I got them out of New York somewhere. It was through a place that supplys to boat builders.

And ya, you're not pulling them if you make a mistake.

Tom Struble 06-23-2012 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. (Post 1521671)
I like using Maze cedar box nails for wood siding. Them ring shanks hold like a mutha.

and the box head is a little larger,better holding that way too:thumbsup:

you need to be careful using the gun,you don't want to drive them under the surface

WarnerConstInc. 06-23-2012 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble (Post 1521682)
and the box head is a little larger,better holding that way too:thumbsup:

you need to be careful using the gun,you don't want to drive them under the surface

Gun? I hand pound wood siding.

http://www.mazenails.com/

Made in the USA too!

Tom Struble 06-23-2012 01:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
i know..and thats not all you hand pound

donerightwyo 06-23-2012 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble (Post 1521519)
coastal areas need stainless,nails should be high enough to just clear the board underneath and in to studs,weather cut and position all seams on studs and seal all cuts
siding should be back primed or sealed before install
consider a rainscreen or a drainable matrix or house wrap
install drip caps/kickouts

i chalk lines directly on the siding using blue or white and pull the panel to just cover the line

personally on average i will install about 200 sqft plus trim a day


Tom, what is that holding your chaulk line in the second picture?

NINZAN STUDIO 06-23-2012 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble
i chalk lines directly on the siding using blue or white and pull the panel to just cover the line

I use my Swanson speed square with its 1/4" detents and run reveal lines in pencil every so often like every 2'. I do this to the board right in the stack before cutting or installing it.

Tom Struble 06-23-2012 02:32 PM

http://www.stanleytools.com/default....3B+Line+Anchor

donerightwyo 06-23-2012 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble (Post 1521756)

Gonna have me one of those. Thanks:thumbup:

Tom Struble 06-23-2012 02:35 PM

no problem they work great :thumbup:

Spike7 06-23-2012 08:10 PM

i " u-tubed" it
a guy with a site called " mywoodproject.com" was showing different types of siding they sell .
when he showed the beveled siding . he explained that you face-nail it , with staples . right on the exposed section!
that can`t be right , can it?



as for the sealing or priming , i`m fine with that if thats what i need to do .
south florida is just so humid , i want to make sure i`m prepping right .

Tom Struble 06-23-2012 08:29 PM

paint has been used on cedar for a long time,it's a superior coating to stain as long as you can keep it on

primed all sides,back ventilated and keeping as much moisture from getting behind as possible should go a long way to insure a good durable paint finish


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