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Western Maine Project

 
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:44 AM   #21
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Re: Western Maine Project


When are you going to build the cabinets?
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:48 PM   #22
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Re: Western Maine Project


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Originally Posted by [email protected]
The only problem I see with those plans is you haven't scribbled on em enough Looks like a fun project.
Believe me, the numbers don't add up. The chicken scratches are necessary.

Pretty pictures, but space planning is not the greatest. We have a 2-6 door called for laundry. While that is good enough, that is really tight. The way it us drawn, you slide open the pocket door and you see the side of the washer. And not just a little.

I don't think he's poor at drafting, just poor at following through and finishing what is supposed to be finished.

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When are you going to build the cabinets?
The cabinets should be starting in December. I talked with the clients a little and was under the impression first that it was going to be stain grade. But it now seems as though it is going to be lacquer. So that is real nice to hear.

Could be quite similar to my last one I just did with beaded face frames.

I can't wait.

Stay tuned for progress pics. It's been crazy lately. I just haven't had any time to do much updating. Had a quick kitchen install today, just got home. Long day.
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:51 PM   #23
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Re: Western Maine Project


Stain grade is less work than paint grade when using lacquers. There is a lot of prep in the surface when you use a lacquer paint because it shows everything. The nice thing about paint is the wood doesn't react with the stain. So the color is always even.
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:39 PM   #24
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Re: Western Maine Project


We have had a few rain days and we went and installed a kitchen Tuesday. This is the end of today. I-Joists went quick. It got up to 70 today. That is unusual.



It's OK to feel bad for me I swear there just is no decent lumber around this neck of the woods. If it was my home, the cull would be around 75%.



Needed a bunch of 22" top cripples for doors. My method I will just mark 22, 44, 66, 88, etc. and cut the line. If you are right handed and use a circ saw, this doesn't work. I use this method for window crips too. I don't use a mitre saw. I just find this way much faster and I don't have to haul around another tool. I'm a minimalist when it comes to framing. Saw, nail gun, get to work.





Burned up some studs on this wall. This shows my floating box headers

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Old 10-28-2010, 06:49 PM   #25
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Re: Western Maine Project


What is on the neighbor's porch Kent?
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:06 PM   #26
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Re: Western Maine Project


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Needed a bunch of 22" top cripples for doors. My method I will just mark 22, 44, 66, 88, etc. and cut the line. If you are right handed and use a circ saw, this doesn't work.
Why not?
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:13 PM   #27
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Re: Western Maine Project


Looks like a 2x6 wall for that pocket door wall.Where is your top plate?
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:27 PM   #28
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Re: Western Maine Project


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What is on the neighbor's porch Kent?
I shouldn't have said anything. People do what they need to do. Sorry Darcy.

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Why not?
Good point. I guess I meant to say I find it a whole lot easier when the blade is on the left and I'm cutting the right side of the line. With a blade on the right, you have more chance to err if you are right handed. One slight miscue and most of your pieces are inconsistent. It doesn't mean you can't so my statement is incorrect.

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Looks like a 2x6 wall for that pocket door wall.Where is your top plate?
The builder likes to take the track and rollers from the Johnson frames and chuck the rest. Then frame with 2x4's flat with 2x6 thick wall. Basically replacing the upright pieces with 2x's. I personally just don't like pocket doors, but they serve their purpose in certain situations. They just never seem to stay in decent condition.

I probably should have waited to post. I have put in some long hours this past week and am having a hard time getting things in my head out right. Not quite myself.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:30 PM   #29
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Re: Western Maine Project


Tease.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:31 PM   #30
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Re: Western Maine Project


knucklehead don't like those pocket doors either
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:32 PM   #31
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Re: Western Maine Project


Kent,
Wheres the bad lumber? Seriously. That stuff looks A++ compared to our usual dry rot and crap.
Your walls have SO much lumber in them. I should take a picture of our interior walls, less door drop crips, we sawzall out the bottom plate to use as the sill, and wall pockets are H pockets not full studs. 2 studs with a block between to hold the middle of the intersecting wall.

How do you guys fasten your non load bearing walls down? Just shoot them down? Also, sill gasket under there or poly? I dont see any of either.
I know you'll feel this as hackish, but how do you cut your Ijoists to length? I set rim board on the long straight(est) wall and run the rest wild. Snap a line and walk down the plate with a chainsaw. Snip them all back and add rim. Done. Have done it by cutting on the ground to length, also by running them uptop and cutting with skill saw and then sawzall. I still say its fastest and the small discrepancy in cuts isn't that much.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:57 PM   #32
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Re: Western Maine Project


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Kent,
Wheres the bad lumber? Seriously. That stuff looks A++ compared to our usual dry rot and crap.
Your walls have SO much lumber in them. I should take a picture of our interior walls, less door drop crips, we sawzall out the bottom plate to use as the sill, and wall pockets are H pockets not full studs. 2 studs with a block between to hold the middle of the intersecting wall.

How do you guys fasten your non load bearing walls down? Just shoot them down? Also, sill gasket under there or poly? I dont see any of either.
I know you'll feel this as hackish, but how do you cut your Ijoists to length? I set rim board on the long straight(est) wall and run the rest wild. Snap a line and walk down the plate with a chainsaw. Snip them all back and add rim. Done. Have done it by cutting on the ground to length, also by running them uptop and cutting with skill saw and then sawzall. I still say its fastest and the small discrepancy in cuts isn't that much.
Non bearing walls we shoot down. We had troubles with the shots so we just hand drove ramset nails in. No sill seal on interior, but exterior is all sill seal. My guy did good. I told him that I didn't want to see any sill seal covering the chalk line.

The i-joist cutting method came up again tonight. I run the joists wild and snap a line then cut to length with worm drive. I was questioned today about this and I have never had any problems. I can cut the 2x4 flange quite easy for the most part minus the bottom chord. I just flip the saw to the back side. I don't see the problem, but everyone seems to roll their eyes and say "ohhhkaaaayyyy" like I'm crazy.

The chainsaw, I personally don't have an issue or concern. I've seen some loggers cut 2x's just as nice as any skilsaw can. It's the talent behind the saw that matters. You know as well as I do that you get the "wtf are you doing?" so I just avoid that. That's just me. I follow you though Kyle. You go get 'em

Isn't it funny how you go from job to job and the methods everyone talks about on a jobsite are so different. "I've done it like this", etc. Not arguing, but just discussing our own methods and what works. Sometimes you get the "wow....that's crazy. It seems it would take so much longer" until you are able to show the reasoning behind the madness. I get "that's crazy, but you are doing it so much faster than I could" comment.
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:02 AM   #33
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Re: Western Maine Project


I used to just use a block for interior petitions, but the county has a new policy about nailing pattern so I started doing the full stud thing. I forget exactly how he worded it ,I just remember I had to go back and put more blocks in
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:29 PM   #34
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Re: Western Maine Project


This job goes directly from 2nd floor sub directly to rafters. Everything is under the roof system minus one dormer on the front. We used 2 plates on the deck because we need to put on H-2.5's.

They sent everything out in DFir We have 26' LSL's for the main roof.

We buttoned things up today because we are supposed to get something like 4 inches of rain overnight or something. We shall see.

Square tails for the rafters. We will be doing the siding and if anyone has any tricks about how to easily apply the finish on the underside, I'm all ears. It is going to be beaded 1x6. It's those ones close to the wall that's going to be tough. I think my Senco angle nailer may hit it.

The builder has a good idea using the EPDM for covering the material. It's heavy enough that you don't need to weigh it down. Kind of expensive for material covers.

The plans are giving us fits. The builder is not too happy and I don't blame him. You pay money for plans so you don't have to screw around on site. It's called a plan for a reason. The window on the gable is supposed to match the one below. It is marked wrong on the plan, among dozens of things.

The archy stopped by the other day and in my most restrained tact I mentioned to him that I could give him some pointers on dimensioning. He politely said he was fine. He then went to another job where he asked his regular framers about his dimensioning on his plans and they said "yeah, they could be better". I hope he gets the point. I think he loses credibility by providing sub par work. The design is great, but people need to work off the damn things.

This was end of yesterday, took the pic this morning.



I looove the pink! Rafters that is. This is the first square tail that I have done. Easier to mark and cut. 10" HAP, 10/12 pitch.
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:46 PM   #35
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Re: Western Maine Project


Looks nice Kent!
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:07 PM   #36
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Re: Western Maine Project


Is there a birdsmouth there?

Looks like they are sitting right on the joists.

What is going on with that top plate?

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Old 11-07-2010, 06:38 AM   #37
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Re: Western Maine Project


Looks like a double 2x4 on top of the tji floor joists. But i can't quite figure out why the rafter would be sitting on ANOTHER joist......stumped. OOPS. Nevermind. Just looked again. tail is cut down to a 2x6 and rafter is a 2x10.

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Old 11-07-2010, 07:08 AM   #38
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Re: Western Maine Project


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We used 2 plates on the deck because we need to put on H-2.5's.
Here's an inside shot. We have some knee walls inside, so that makes me feel a little better about outward thrust. We glued the first plate to the floor and the second plate to the first one...just for safe measure.



Rain, rain....and more rain. We've just about come to a halt. If we are any slower, we'd be dead.

Started cutting the LSL's. These will be fun. I knew they were heavy. They are nice to cut as rafters though. Nice and straight.





How I stack and mark my rafters. Kind of a modified version of the crown down approach with gang cutting. I mark every rafter. I don't go for the pattern approach, especially a 26' long LSL pattern.





You can see how moisture affects this type of material here, and these are bone dry.



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Old 11-07-2010, 07:56 AM   #39
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Re: Western Maine Project


Coming along... keep us posted Framer... looking good!

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Old 11-07-2010, 08:52 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by framerman View Post
Believe me, the numbers don't add up.

Pretty pictures, but space planning is not the greatest. We have a 2-6 door called for laundry. While that is good enough, that is really tight. The way it us drawn, you slide open the pocket door and you see the side of the washer. And not just a little.
I've seen this a few times.On one set of plans we
discovered that the design was adapted from a Southern style
house that was drawn up with 2x4 exterior walls.
Whomever redid the plans didn't account for the extra 2"
that was lost by adding 2x6 exterior framing within the same footprint.

Hallways became too narrow , bath fixtures got crammed,
U-shaped kitchen lost 4",staircase jutted into hallway.total
screw up.
We weren't the framers on this one,but it reinforced the
need to always check dimensions for function.

Looks like you may beat the snow season there Kent.

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