Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

Hardwood flooring, last few rows?

23K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  Jdub2083 
#1 ·
SO, as many of you know, I switched from working new home framing to renovations about 6 months ago.

I have been on the same complete gut, reno/addition since I started with the company. I started laying the hardwood yesterday afternoon/today. I got to the last few rows, and used the 16g nailer where the flooring nailer couldn't be used.

Now, I know it is ok.... to face nail/fill the final 2 or 3 rows that you can't get a good angle on with the nailer.

But... I was wondering, since you guys always have amazing ideas for stuff I would have never thought off, does anyone have an alternate route or maybe a tip/trick for me that I can bring to the lead carpenter and boss to wow them?

Cheers, gents.



Incase anyone cares or was wondering, new job is going amazing, they are really impressed with my door hanging/casing skills (that I didn't know I had) and loved my stair framing.... but.... ya know, stair framing is my bread and butter.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Brutus said:
SO, as many of you know, I switched from working new home framing to renovations about 6 months ago. I have been on the same complete gut, reno/addition since I started with the company. I started laying the hardwood yesterday afternoon/today. I got to the last few rows, and used the 16g nailer where the flooring nailer couldn't be used. Now, I know it is ok.... to face nail/fill the final 2 or 3 rows that you can't get a good angle on with the nailer. But... I was wondering, since you guys always have amazing ideas for stuff I would have never thought off, does anyone have an alternate route or maybe a tip/trick for me that I can bring to the lead carpenter and boss to wow them? Cheers, gents. Incase anyone cares or was wondering, new job is going amazing, they are really impressed with my door hanging/casing skills (that I didn't know I had) and loved my stair framing.... but.... ya know, stair framing is my bread and butter.
I'm not sure what they call this tool but they make a chisel type tool that takes a slit out of the material and you nail in that slit and the bit you chiseled out just glues back down with zero visible signs you done it. I would say its OTT for flooring as I only ever seen it used on high end woodworking.
 
#3 ·
Lee Valley used to have something like that. I think it's called "the invisible nailing kit" it would do what you want.

I think that would work, but only on real hardwood. You wouldn't be able to use it on pre-finished flooring, or anything that's not wood with a grain.

I sure don't know how else to fix your problem, hoping some of the flooring guys here will chip in.

I get asked to do flooring frequently, but I always turn it down. Tons of flooring guys in my area, working dirt cheap. I have to do some creative things now and then with baseboard to cover the HUGE freakin gap that's left between the flooring and the wall.

Not always, but ususally when it's a home owner install.
 
#4 ·
I don't do hardwood all the time, but when the flooring nailer won't fit I switch to the 15 ga, then that don't fit, use the 18 ga with some dabs of glue, then you're usually close enough to glue the last row or two and drive wedges to hold until dry. Don't know if it's right, but it works for me.
 
#15 ·
Saw that a few years ago when we had a larger SWB Flooring job. Wouldn't work on that stuff so I held off from picking one up. I have a couple of floors to install in the next few months, think I'll pick one up this time.
 
#22 ·
pinwheel said:
The PL premium will give with expansion contraction. It remains rubbery even when dry.
Lol you think. Try and pry up or move a wall plate glued down with PL premium. It ain't going anywhere. I had to move some on a basement not long ago and the stuff wouldn't budge. Once that stuff sets up its about as solid as it gets. some of the others may have a little more movement.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Funny this came up. On Monday I have to finish off a bunch of final rows of 3 1/4 hard maple.

First off always use a urthane glue. Never use an acrylic meant for engineered flooring. It will cause the planks to buckle.

My method I use is..

- get as close as I can with the flooring mailer then a 16 ga until I can get any closer.

-cut the aqua bar/ felt and spread bostick best hardwood flooring adhesive or another quality hardwood adhesive. Mapei 980 also works

Place the last 2 or 3 rows of hardwood into the glue

Use a flooring Jack to tighten everything up and face nail the last row.

Done.

No voided warrantys like you can with a tube adhesive etc.

I was always told pl premium etc is not the proper stuff. It does not allow movment like a quality flooring adhesive does.

And face nailing the last 3 rows is ugly.
 
#26 ·
pinwheel said:
You were trying to remove it, not move it 1/4". Put a hardwood floor jack against the bottom plate against a couple planks glued down. Garantee you can move it 1/4" sideways
Trust me you ain't moving it even 1/8th. the reason I had to move the wall was because I set it 1/2" out of plumb by accident. It was only the next day after I laid them too. It had set up so hard it wouldn't budge at all. I put 3 Irwin clamps on the plate to try and push it out a little. Not a smidgen of movement. It goes off like rock once it sets. I ended up cutting the studs out and prying up the plate. I had to use a chisel to remove the PL that was left. it really does set up stupid hard.
 
#29 ·
I use PL for all my decking and its much better than most. The few floors I've used it on I just put a couple dabs in the center of the board, never called me back so I don't think anything happened.

Learning something new all the time around here.
 
#30 ·
Just finished running quite a bit of hardwood, 2 1/4 and 3 1/4. When you can't get in with the flooring gun, go to the finish gun, then right angle drill and flooring cleats or 6 pennys. Can get nails in all but the second.to last row. I used great stuff s floor and wall adhesive for that row.
 
#31 ·
I understand the want to hide all nails and everything, and I also strive for that. But lets not kid ourselves on a couple things.

1. Furniture covers a lot of the nail holes along walls for us
2. Unless you're using framing nails or huge screws a lot of nails aren't that visible
3. How often are you hanging out right against a wall? It's not likely a high traffic area and not something that's seen constantly so most people are pretty understanding about nails in the last couple rows.

I get everything I can with the flooring nailer then the 15 gauge. Of course it all depends on what the customer wants, but I haven't had one yet that was unrealistic with the last 2 rows of flooring.

I like that little chisel idea, and if it were a very small room it might be practical, but that would take 2 days to do on a decent size install.
 
#32 ·
I like that little chisel idea, and if it were a very small room it might be practical, but that would take 2 days to do on a decent size install.
Not once you got the hang of it. And I think it's really only for areas that will be seen or repairs.
 
#34 ·
I'm just guessing but it seems like the 400 subfloor adhesive is designed to remain soft and flexible to allow some movment with the framing. It is not a urethane so I'm guessing it's a water based acrylic?

Pl premium drys solid. Really no movment and is a urathane based adhesive.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top