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First Stringers

 
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:40 PM   #41
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Re: First Stringers


Greg, where your arrow is pointing to the weak point, I use material size so that doesn't happen.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:46 PM   #42
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Re: First Stringers


Am I the only one who believes in trying to incorporate a ledger under the tops, (if possible), and a full "stop block" across the bottoms?

No, the stringers and joist aren't drawn correctly on the left, I know that..... the picture is just to show the ledger.

And I would never do that bolt thing on the far left........ not without something else to help out. I'd probably cut the joist tails back, and fasten on a doubled header joist to their ends, and ledger that.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:59 PM   #43
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Re: First Stringers


I do them like that also Willie.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:05 PM   #44
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Re: First Stringers


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Greg, where your arrow is pointing to the weak point, I use material size so that doesn't happen.
I know that but depends on the stringer size you use and how much of a notch you make. Even if using 2x12 stringer on decks after the notch you remove a good portion of the stringer.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:06 PM   #45
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Re: First Stringers


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Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
Am I the only one who believes in trying to incorporate a ledger under the tops, (if possible), and a full "stop block" across the bottoms?

No, the stringers and joist aren't drawn correctly on the left, I know that..... the picture is just to show the ledger.
I don't ledger the tops of mine but I do stop block the bottoms depending on the situation.

Last edited by WildWill; 01-21-2012 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:18 PM   #46
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Re: First Stringers


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I don't ledger the tops of mine but I do stop block the bottoms depending on the situation.
Same.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:30 PM   #47
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Re: First Stringers


I made a little sketch and if you have a 2x12 with a 7.5" rise, and you make a notch and if you have 2x10 joist on the deck you will not have much left of that stringer which will make a very weak stair.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:33 PM   #48
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Re: First Stringers


I always use a stop bock at the bottom like Willie. But just blocks in between the stringers at the top.

I have sent the stringers into the joists beyond the stairwell opening before but generally find that to only work where the joists are not that deep, say 2x6 up to 2x8. Taller floor systems and you have that issue Greg is pointing out.

If I have the room to determine the starting point of the stairwell, I just incorporate the first tread to be flush with the deck. Basically adding one tread to the length of the opening. This way the stringer can land on the face of the header. New framing, I can leave the subfloor extended into the opening to create the first tread with that and cut the stringers accordingly. I find this to be the easiest of them all.

The Prazi chain saw attachment was a nice tool for the production work for carpeted stairs.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:33 PM   #49
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Re: First Stringers


Stop block and simpson the tops.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:40 PM   #50
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Re: First Stringers


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Originally Posted by greg24k View Post
I made a little sketch and if you have a 2x12 with a 7.5" rise, and you make a notch and if you have 2x10 joist on the deck you will not have much left of that stringer which will make a very weak stair.
Greg,
Your measurement of the meat should be square to the bottom edge to the notch of the stringer. That will tell you what is left as structure.

Have you ever extended the notches up so there was some top edge of the stringer left un-cut to increase the meat below? That little void that is left under the leading edge of the stringer can be supported by the riser. It's one way to increase the strength of a staircase without wider material.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:45 PM   #51
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Re: First Stringers


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering View Post
I always use a stop bock at the bottom like Willie. But just blocks in between the stringers at the top.

I have sent the stringers into the joists beyond the stairwell opening before but generally find that to only work where the joists are not that deep, say 2x6 up to 2x8. Taller floor systems and you have that issue Greg is pointing out.

If I have the room to determine the starting point of the stairwell, I just incorporate the first tread to be flush with the deck. Basically adding one tread to the length of the opening. This way the stringer can land on the face of the header. New framing, I can leave the subfloor extended into the opening to create the first tread with that and cut the stringers accordingly. I find this to be the easiest of them all.

The Prazi chain saw attachment was a nice tool for the production work for carpeted stairs.
It's never a problem with interior oak box stairways, all you do is drop them in place and secure them... I stopped building my own stairs for the houses I build in the late 80's its cheaper to buy them then build your own this days... but I still love to mess around building deck stairs
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:50 PM   #52
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Re: First Stringers


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering View Post
Greg,
Your measurement of the meat should be square to the bottom edge to the notch of the stringer. That will tell you what is left as structure.

Have you ever extended the notches up so there was some top edge of the stringer left un-cut to increase the meat below? That little void that is left under the leading edge of the stringer can be supported by the riser. It's one way to increase the strength of a staircase without wider material.
I did my stairs this way 1 time and I didn't like it, it was to much of a pain in the a$$ and I re did the stringers my way.
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:39 PM   #53
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Re: First Stringers


Has anyone ever used the Simpson Ties pictured at the bottom? I have and I like them, they're just an eye sore.

Will, I've used blocking under the last, bottom step, but not at the top. In my opinion, if you notch the stringer to accommodate the ledger, you weaken the stringer from say a 2 x 12 to a 2 x 10. Same as if you notched joists. Just my opinion. Like Gus said, I've used blocking between the stringers before. I've done some pretty wide steps before, as much as 6 - 8 feet for a low deck (maybe five steps). I just bought those stringers. I think you can buy up to 6 steps off the shelf.

It may be a better way to attach the stringers, but I don't like the look of the top step being a bump-out from the actual landing.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...SU.asp#gallery
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:40 PM   #54
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Re: First Stringers


Here's a picture of one

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Old 01-22-2012, 12:20 AM   #55
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Re: First Stringers


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Here's a picture of one

Attachment 63835
USP has a concealed hanger out for the stringers, its a much better way to connect a stringer and it will be hidden and you can bend the seat also to match stringer slope.
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:53 AM   #56
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Re: First Stringers


I used to use roll strap for the tops. LS25 I think it was the 1 1/2 stuff. Used 8's for the nailing.
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:29 AM   #57
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Re: First Stringers


I've used those Simpson stair hangers pictured below. What an eye sore..

I only went with one in the center stringer and on the left and right I went with just right angle brackets...
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:11 AM   #58
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Re: First Stringers


i use a hanger board.
1/2" plywood and nailed and screwed like crazy
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:24 AM   #59
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Re: First Stringers


This was a good thread on stringers a few years ago.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f50/au...n-style-43998/
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:33 PM   #60
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Re: First Stringers


Assuming the basic stringer material is strong enough for your span and will not shrink very much, you can just lean the top of the stringer against a solid fascia and notch in the bottom to a solid plate, and you stringers cannot fall down. Basic geometry.

I guess I am just agreeing with Willie (without the top ledger) and Gus.

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