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Window And Door Header Question

 
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Old 09-09-2010, 07:29 PM   #41
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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Originally Posted by jkfox624 View Post
So im taking it you guys dont have to build 2x6 walls? Only in very rare chances can we build with 2x4 and thats like pulling teeth to get it pushed through.
In this area, 2x4 construction is still the rule, not the exception. 2x6 walls are becoming more popular, but not very common.
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Old 09-09-2010, 07:34 PM   #42
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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Originally Posted by festerized View Post
What about if you have a 9’ or 10’ wall? Do install header tight to pl8 or run cripples?
Yes, we make a cripple "box" under the header, after the jacks are in. Our code states the header shall be under the plate, and jacks continuous up to the underside of the header.

The reasoning is that if you break the jacks into 2 pieces, there is more opportunity for shrinkage.

Anyhow, that's what they want.
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Old 09-09-2010, 07:37 PM   #43
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


up here via code walls must be 2x6 exterior as to provide a minimum of r-24. this can be achieved two ways, with a denser batt insulation that is black which is r-24 or with normal r-20 then 1" rigid foam on the outside

we do custom homes and reno's, we foam everything. if its in the budget we nix the batts and go straight to spray foam
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Old 09-09-2010, 07:44 PM   #44
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


On some water front homes we have used a 3 ½” x 11 7/8” power lamb on top of the pl8 across the entire wall. Then cripple in 2x8 header bellow. This is more for wind load and the end to end header displaces the weight across the entire structure. This method kills the HVAC & plumbers who need to run mechanicals, but in the long run it’s better to run mech. inside on water front homes
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:11 PM   #45
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


Around here all exterior walls must be 2x6 and we always run out headers tight to the outside for insulation reasons.
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Old 09-09-2010, 10:59 PM   #46
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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Originally Posted by jkfox624 View Post
So im taking it you guys dont have to build 2x6 walls? Only in very rare chances can we build with 2x4 and thats like pulling teeth to get it pushed through.
I live in the most extreme climate in the continental US. We get more than 30deg below zero every winter and above 105deg every summer. 2x6 framing is then required on all exterior walls for insulation purposes. IMO, there is absolutely no reason to built interior walls 2x6, unless there is plumbing in that wall.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:07 PM   #47
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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I live in the most extreme climate in the continental US. We get more than 30deg below zero every winter and above 105deg every summer. 2x6 framing is then required on all exterior walls for insulation purposes. IMO, there is absolutely no reason to built interior walls 2x6, unless there is plumbing in that wall.
2x6 interior walls are pretty common in multi level homes these days. Only for bearing walls.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:24 PM   #48
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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2x6 interior walls are pretty common in multi level homes these days. Only for bearing walls.
I see them used, but it is almost always overkill. Unless we are talking about 5 story homes.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:47 PM   #49
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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Originally Posted by festerized View Post
What about if you have a 9’ or 10’ wall? Do install header tight to pl8 or run cripples?

Almost every house I have framed is 9' or 10' walls (2x6) You guys with the 2x4 walls are spoiled.

I'm framing an acreage right now with 10' walls.

Header to the plates, doubled up, nailed to the outside of the wall.
leaves 2 1/2" for insulation.
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:46 AM   #50
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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Originally Posted by NorumConst View Post
2x6 interior walls are pretty common in multi level homes these days. Only for bearing walls.
Why do they need 2x6 interior walls for bearing? Is it because your installing 5-1/2" microlams on top for large openings?
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Old 09-10-2010, 10:05 AM   #51
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


wow, who would of thought my dumb question would of initiated such a stir !
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Old 09-10-2010, 10:34 AM   #52
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


This may be a poor example but this is a frame I took over from a fly by nighter.
The post is missing a post cap to distribute the 7 Ό” girder to the 5 ½” wall below
having upload Issues, i'll try again later
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:20 PM   #53
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


i'm a window guy who does some patio doors and some entry door's.
we use 2 (2x10's) with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between for the wall thickness. we run the plywood the full length,there are no air gaps or whatever you were referring too.
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:24 PM   #54
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by hughjazz View Post
Almost every house I have framed is 9' or 10' walls (2x6) You guys with the 2x4 walls are spoiled.

I'm framing an acreage right now with 10' walls.

Header to the plates, doubled up, nailed to the outside of the wall.
leaves 2 1/2" for insulation.
Hugh - those pictures look like you are framing alone.

Is it just you and a telehandler?

Last edited by CookeCarpentry; 09-10-2010 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:06 PM   #55
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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wow, who would of thought my dumb question would of initiated such a stir !
Yeah, like Blonde wearing a mini skirt and a tube top at a job site can't understand why everybody just stopped working.

Ask a bunch of framers why they frame it their way and there's bound to be a fight.
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:51 PM   #56
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


i ee alot of guys using 2 x 10's with plywood in between as well. do you guys also nail a 2 x 4 underneath to the 2 x 10's?
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:11 PM   #57
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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Originally Posted by katoman View Post
Yes, we make a cripple "box" under the header, after the jacks are in. Our code states the header shall be under the plate, and jacks continuous up to the underside of the header.

The reasoning is that if you break the jacks into 2 pieces, there is more opportunity for shrinkage.

Anyhow, that's what they want.
I always insisted that the jacks meet the header. I wouldn't allow any 2x4 "filler" to be put on before the jacks were installed.

This accomplished two things: 1) it properly supported the header without a "crush" factor to worry about. 2) if we needed to gain a small amount of height, we could easily remove the filler and substitute a thinner piece.

The crush factor is real. I once saw a 12" oak beam crushed down to 2" .
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:41 PM   #58
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


jesus, a boom to lift a wall. we use ol fashion beer and sweat
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:50 PM   #59
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


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Originally Posted by CookeCarpentry View Post
Hugh - those pictures look like you are framing alone.

Is it just you and a telehandler?

That week it was just me, I have a labourer and sometimes a semi-competent helper.

If I could, I would go it alone. I never have the time.


I was alone for the 2 big walls . The big one is 10' tall and 48' long
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Old 09-10-2010, 11:38 PM   #60
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Re: Window And Door Header Question


For me it is mostly 2x6 on new work, 2x4 on garages and renovations.

I nail the 2-2x10 together, with a 2x6 (or 2x4) flat on the bottom. The bottom is 3 inches shorter, 1.5 on each side. So the trimmers (or jacks) go right under the 2x10 header, and the 2x6 (or 2x4) goes in-between the jacks. The gap goes to the inside.

Why? Because it is how I was taught and faster for me then other methods.

Another guy I worked for separated his 2x10's insulated with fiberglass between them, then put on the bottom 2x6.

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